Advice on Ford 7.3l trucks

[Arizona_928]

Looking at buying a 7.3 for hauling miscellaneous stuff, and the humvee to go wheeling (prolly keeping it under 10,000lbs). Won't be DD, so my budget is 15k. Craigslist is showing a lot of potential trucks.
So what to look for, and how high of mileage is too high?

[Evans, Marv]

I have an '03, 7.3L that I will keep until I die or it does. I drive it less than 6K miles a year now, & at this point it has almost 170K miles on it. I did buy it used with 40K miles on it and have taken really good care of it as far as maintenance and mechanicals are concerned. I also did a few little mods I thought would make it last, like a bypass filter, the large air filter, & some other items. I haven't done much to it except for routine maintenance and replacement of things like the alternator, water pump, power steering hose, & maybe a couple of other things. I would think you could buy one with a lot more miles on it than mine if it was well maintained, so I'd try to get one you could verify a good maintenance schedule on. They are heavy trucks, and things like the ball joints and other front suspension parts can wear out. I just spent about $2K on mine over the past year to replace all of that, but I've done those kinds of things before they became critical. It's 4WD, and if you buy a 2WD those might not wear as quickly. I know Speeder had one some time ago he did work on, so he might chime in with some comments. The engines are under stressed in my opinion with 250 hp. & 525 lb. ft. of torque. I think that contributes to them lasting a long time.

[pete3799]

The 7.3 in our 4x4 1999 F350 town 1 ton (dual rears) has been very good so far. I put new glow plugs in it last year and that's it so far. The auto trans. is another story. Been worked on twice the third time it got a new factory rebuilt one and it's been fine for a year and a half now.
It only has about 43K miles on it but we use it hard in the winter. Nine ft. funnel plow and a 2 yard vee box sander that's usually loaded to over flowing. Probably 7K pounds of sand and the plow weights around a thousand lbs.
Has good power. I don't pay for the fuel so I've never checked the MPG.

[Evans, Marv]

Pete reminded me to comment about MPG. It depends a little on the type of tires you are running. Mine is a SRW truck. I ran Michelin M&S LTX on it and got 15 to 16 for daily driving. Freeway cruising @ 2K rpm's ranged from 18.4 to 19.2. These are unloaded. I put tires with a more aggressive tread on it and mileage dropped about 2 mpg.

[Sebscst]

I have owed 3 and currently have 1. One was a 250 then an excursion and now a single wheel 350. I would never own any other truck or even any other motor. My previous ones i sold had close to 400k miles each and i sold them for a little less than what i paid for them, they hold their value. I use them for what they were made for, regularly towing 15k + from florida to North Carolina to Louisiana. Never had an major issue but for some reason all three trucks do blow the front hubs about every 45k miles. Do not buy a 6.0 or any newer crap. 15k budget should get you a crew cab 4x4 with around 150k miles. Try to aviod one that has a gooseneck ball, it has probably been used to tow very heavy loads( my personal best 45k on the trailer). Good luck and post a pic of what you buy.

[cabmandone]

The transmission behind that beast is a known issue.
Other than the transmission not many big issues if you're buying a non rust belt rig. I have 225K on my 1999 4x4 crew cab. I have done the 6.0 transmission cooler upgrade, pillar gauge cluster with EGT, Trans temp and Boost, 6637 air filter mod and installed a larger power steering cooler as well. I have had a few of the common problems. The wire harness under the valve covers for the injectors had loose clips which caused the truck not to fire. 50 cent mod fixed this problem. I had the rusted out oil pan issue as well. This one is a pain since the engine does need to come out to fix this problem. A big one but again it's a rust belt issue is rusted brake lines that burst. Yeah... I had that one happen while pulling a skid steer. If you're looking at 4x4 and it has Electronic Shift On the Fly check to make sure it works. The system operates on vacuum. There is an O ring in the knuckle that can fail which keeps ESOF from working. Also rotate the manual lockers for the hubs. These have a tendency to freeze up when they aren't used. Most of these suffer from "road wander" which is tough to fix without spending some money on upgrading the steering box and installing a steering dampener.
A great resource for the 7.3 SD Truck is Ford Truck Enthusiasts. It's sort of the Pelican of the Ford Truck world.

I saw someone mentioned fuel mileage. I get about 17 mpg with my 4x4 on the highway but the key is keeping it under 2000 RPM's. Pulling a 14K equipment trailer with a 10K skid steer I'd get about 8 mpg but I ignore that 2000 rpm rule. Putting around town/mixed driving I get around 11 but I seldom check that one.

A non rust belt common spot for rust is the truck bed at the wheel wells. Ford had a terrible design that cause rust regardless where the vehicle is driven.

If you want a solid work truck I'm selling my 99 sadly. I bought a newer truck for tax purposes and don't need two. $7500 and no, I wouldn't hesitate to take it on a long trip.

[speeder]

I'll sell you this one for $12.5k. Early Powerstroke 7.3, (1995), unbelievably great mechanical condition. Zero rust and original paint. Lots of recent maintenance and new 10-ply Yokohama E-load tires.

Has 240k miles, trans rebuilt by dealer mechanic @ 150k. Aftermarket 40 gallon transfer flow front fuel tank, stock rear tank. I've owned a lot of these, I swear it seems like someone turned the odometer forward on this one, it drives almost like new. Amazing condition.

These sell for stupid $$ in this condition w low miles, (under 100k=$25k). I got a newer truck, drove this one last night and had second thoughts about selling. This is the truck I drove from CA. to MN. this summer loaded up and pulling my Airstream. Everything works, (everything), zero stories or excuses.

I was going to throw it on eBay when I got off my ass but might as well offer it here. I'd have no problem selling to a Pelican brother.

[Eric 951]

Damn Dennis that truck is a beauty. I bought the exact same truck new with the 5.8 and the blue center stripe/blue int. which I gifted to my BIL 2 years ago and have regretted ever since(although he is still driving it).

[speeder]

Thanks, man. It's a true cream puff, not many F-250s have had an easy life. It belonged to a rich gentleman rancher in eastern WA. and mostly pulled a horse trailer around the country to shows.

[T77911S]

that's not a bad truck above, maybe a little hi.

I bought my daughter a 99 f250 with 170k for 9500 a few years ago.
extra tank
SS exhaust
great condition

spent a year looking for a truck. I wanted a dodge but they were just too much and the ones I could afford were just ragged out, most trucks feel like the front end is about to fall off, the interiors are not that good. on the F250 the drivers seats get a soft spot on the left side from getting gin and out.

cooling the tranny is the key, 4r100. check to see if it has a rebuilt sticker on it
ball joints.

after riding with a friend that had a cattle farm, I understand why the front ends wear out so fast. driving thru a cow pasture beats the hell out of um.

the key to the 7.3 is oil changes and oil. did not know this until I did some research. the injectors have an oil pump and use oil pressure to fire them. (basic idea). if the oil is nto changed then the injectors start to screw up.

brakes is another, if they don't get driven the calipers can be a problem.
especially if it is a manual, check the universal joints, people that don't know how to shift can destroy them.

oh, if you get one like the one above, the rear door latch cables break. its a crappy little rubber piece on the end. hard part is getting the door open. you can get metal ones on ebay cheap. you need 8 pieces to do both doors.

[speeder]

Originally Posted by T77911S

that's not a bad truck above, maybe a little hi.

I bought my daughter a 99 f250 with 170k for 9500 a few years ago.
extra tank
SS exhaust
great condition

spent a year looking for a truck. I wanted a dodge but they were just too much and the ones I could afford were just ragged out, most trucks feel like the front end is about to fall off, the interiors are not that good. on the F250 the drivers seats get a soft spot on the left side from getting gin and out.

cooling the tranny is the key, 4r100. check to see if it has a rebuilt sticker on it
ball joints.

after riding with a friend that had a cattle farm, I understand why the front ends wear out so fast. driving thru a cow pasture beats the hell out of um.

the key to the 7.3 is oil changes and oil. did not know this until I did some research. the injectors have an oil pump and use oil pressure to fire them. (basic idea). if the oil is nto changed then the injectors start to screw up.

brakes is another, if they don't get driven the calipers can be a problem.
especially if it is a manual, check the universal joints, people that don't know how to shift can destroy them.

oh, if you get one like the one above, the rear door latch cables break. its a crappy little rubber piece on the end. hard part is getting the door open. you can get metal ones on ebay cheap. you need 8 pieces to do both doors.

If you are referring to my truck, it doesn't have rear doors. That started in '99 with the Superduty trucks.

What you say about maintenance is correct but there is more to it than that. Truly good maintenance on any vehicle means everything on time, brake fluid flush and change, trans service, differential lube changed w correct additive for LSD, transfer case oil, etc.

One of the most important fluids, especially on diesels, is clean/correct coolant w the diesel additive to prevent cavitation. My truck is 100%, no leaks anywhere, bone dry underneath. 4.10 ltd. slip, factory filters everywhere, bone stock, etc., etc. There are a lot of POS, modified 7.3 trucks out there. I won't touch them w a ten foot pole.

[ckelly78z]

I have a 1999 Lariat F250 with the 7.3 L with 235,000 miles on the clock, and gets driven about 5000 miles a year. I have looked at replacing it, but don't want to buy a 6.0L diesel, and won't look at Chevy/Dodge etc... I generally pull our 30' camper, loaded down 16' utility trailer, or the horse trailer.

Unloaded in the Summer months, I can knock down 18 mpg (stock tires 3.73 gears) and have seen multiple times of 14 mpg pulling a heavy camper. The only issue I keep running into is sticking brake calipers.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by ckelly78z

I have a 1999 Lariat F250 with the 7.3 L with 235,000 miles on the clock, and gets driven about 5000 miles a year. I have looked at replacing it, but don't want to buy a 6.0L diesel, and won't look at Chevy/Dodge etc... I generally pull our 30' camper, loaded down 16' utility trailer, or the horse trailer.

Unloaded in the Summer months, I can knock down 18 mpg (stock tires 3.73 gears) and have seen multiple times of 14 mpg pulling a heavy camper. The only issue I keep running into is sticking brake calipers.

Don't be afraid of a 6.0 if you don't have smog testing. It's not quite legal but you can stud and EGR delete the early 6.0's or just EGR delete the later trucks because the stud issue was addressed. I know a few guys that own these and did the "bulletproof" on them and they run quieter than a 7.3, get better mileage, have more power and after the bulletproofing are pretty much as reliable.
I found the best way to prevent the sticking caliper problem was to just do a complete system flush every couple years. It doesn't cost much and if you have a pressure bleeder you can do it yourself pretty easily.
Someone touched on Trans temps. That's why my truck has a gauge and a 6.0 cooler and a transgo shift kit installed. Ford undersized the cooler of these trucks until the 6.0 came out.

[HardDrive]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Don't be afraid of a 6.0 if you don't have smog testing. It's not quite legal but you can stud and EGR delete the early 6.0's or just EGR delete the later trucks because the stud issue was addressed. I know a few guys that own these and did the "bulletproof" on them and they run quieter than a 7.3, get better mileage, have more power and after the bulletproofing are pretty much as reliable.
I found the best way to prevent the sticking caliper problem was to just do a complete system flush every couple years. It doesn't cost much and if you have a pressure bleeder you can do it yourself pretty easily.
Someone touched on Trans temps. That's why my truck has a gauge and a 6.0 cooler and a transgo shift kit installed. Ford undersized the cooler of these trucks until the 6.0 came out.

This. My dad has a 6.0. 180k miles with a Lance camper on the back. Excellent truck. Yes, you need to do the EGR delete.

[Arizona_928]

I have been debating the 6.0 for awhile now. A few guys I have talked to has bullet proofed them and spent more money on it then what they could sell them for. Locally the trucks are completely clapped out. Once in a while a clean one will pop up from northern az, but they are gone within hours.

Anyways, I put a deposit on Mr. Cabmando's power stroke. I'm picking it up once I get leave, so this thread might turn into the ultimate road trip picture thread.

[ted]

I enjoyed my 99 Power Stroke for a decade.
Never had an issue towing.
But the newer trucks with the transmission with tow modes and Jake brake style engine braking make towing so much safer and enjoyable.
I'd like the 99 Ford with a new style transmission.
The 4 speed auto in the old Fords is primitive compared to the new transmissions.

[speeder]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

I have been debating the 6.0 for awhile now. A few guys I have talked to has bullet proofed them and spent more money on it then what they could sell them for. Locally the trucks are completely clapped out. Once in a while a clean one will pop up from northern az, but they are gone within hours.

Anyways, I put a deposit on Mr. Cabmando's power stroke. I'm picking it up once I get leave, so this thread might turn into the ultimate road trip picture thread.

That could be a sweet deal if it doesn't have rust or need a lot of $$ put into it. The market for rusty trucks is completely different from the market for dry, clean ones. Good luck w it!

[Arizona_928]

Originally Posted by speeder

That could be a sweet deal if it doesn't have rust or need a lot of $$ put into it. The market for rusty trucks is completely different from the market for dry, clean ones. Good luck w it!

There's some rust, but nothing worse then rusted out longs on a 914.
I think this truck is what I'm looking for. Good history of maintenance/not neglected, and under budget. Which leaves more $$ to buy a deckover.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

There's some rust, but nothing worse then rusted out longs on a 914.
I think this truck is what I'm looking for. Good history of maintenance/not neglected, and under budget. Which leaves more $$ to buy a deckover.

Well... that and it has the new flaw from this morning
Curse you Pigeon!!!
As for needing much work, in the last 4 years: new brake calipers all around, nickle copper alloy brake lines front to back, alternator, power steering pump, heavier leaf springs, lower ball joints, front hub assembly both sides, new A/C condenser, 6.0 trans cooler, larger power steering cooler, new fuel pump, and new tires last year.
Only things I'd consider doing if I was keeping it would be new shocks and new tie rod ends to tighten up steering.
BTW oil change completed, U joints greased (yes they're serviceable) and put new wiper blades on. Will get to fuel filter next week. It'll be ready for the road trip when you get here. Email me about what you're going to be hauling. I'd avoid a deck over trailer unless you need the width.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by ted

I enjoyed my 99 Power Stroke for a decade.
Never had an issue towing.
But the newer trucks with the transmission with tow modes and Jake brake style engine braking make towing so much safer and enjoyable.
I'd like the 99 Ford with a new style transmission.
The 4 speed auto in the old Fords is primitive compared to the new transmissions.

You aren't kidding! I bought an F250 with the 6.2L gas engine and the 6 speed auto hooked to it is incredible! I took my 7.3 with trailer to get the new to me F250. I put the 350 on the trailer and pulled with the 250. I realized when I got to the dealer that the brake controller wasn't working in the truck I bought and they didn't have shop time to look at it so I drove it home with lights but no trailer brakes. The way that thing downshifts in tow haul is amazing. I could barely tell I didn't have trailer brakes. Fuel mileage was about 2 mpg worse than with my 7.3 pulling but power was great and so was the transmission.