How best to drill a lock hole for a tool box?
 

How best to drill a lock hole for a tool box? Pilot holes, punch and a file?

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If it's just a cheapo tool box, then I'd drill a pilot hole and use a sawzall to cut most of it, then finish with a drum sander. Or better yet, weld a hasp on it so that you can put a big ol lock on there.

If it's an expensive tool chest, then I'd take it to a metal guy who can spend time making it perfect.

Option B: Find a different lock that is perfectly round?

They are all like that. It keeps the lock cylinder from spinning with a key or a screwdriver when attempting to break in.....

I am guessing that template above corresponds to just the rear portion, which is threaded for a retaining nut, yes? And the front has a bezel/ring that is larger in diameter?
If that's the case, you should be able to drill 1 single hole, the same size as the lock body. No need to make it the exact shape. Just make sure the lock nut is cinched down good and tight. I'd probably use Loctite on the threads as well. YMMV...

A drill, a sabre saw, a fine metal blade, and a couple of files or a dremel. Tape the face of the box. Back in the dark ages a guy would drill a bunch of 1/8'' holes around the perimeter, and co to town with a file.

My guess is that there is a die for that that has a bolt that goes into a small centered hole, and then gets cinched down. With the above tools, I could have a nice quality hole in about 30 min. or less.

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Cheapest double D punch I found was 157 dollars.

There is probably a locksmith within 50 miles of you that has one.

I'd drill a hole the size of the flats, then elongate it with a dremel.

Don't suppose you have access to a nibbler? http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDWAY-16-Gauge-Capacity-Air-Nibbler-9943/203185226?cm_mmc=SEM|THD|google|&mid=sGGzTBmKX|dc_ mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_111416414825_pkw__pmt__pro duct_203185226_slid_&gclid=CPC8udKQz9ACFVdMDQodBKU Czw

Just drill a round hole. Stick the lock through and JB Weld the heck out of it before installing the washer and retaining nut.

I think I'd go with an external latch vs trying to cut a hole like that. Why are you committed to this style?

I'm just going to point out that there are guys over in the technical forums who do harder stuff than this every day. Care and patience often can substitute for fancy tools. But I would get on the phone and let my fingers do the walking while I talked to some local locksmiths.

This lock is for my seat delete project. The doors are on top because access is restricted due to the roll bar. The area will have two toss cushions for my three Dachshunds to hang out on for rides to Homey Doh and the doggie park.


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I don't want externals punching holes in the pups or the cushions, it gets messy and vet bills be 'spensive....

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That HPC punch is what I need. Will call around to see if any shop will do it for me. Can't see dropping that much $$ is worth it to me at this point.....unless my display guy would use it.

Get this, $3

Lock Mounting Plate For Standard Cam Locks Used On Arcade Games & Equipment | eBayhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480513631.jpg

If in wood, countersink, if thin metal then drill round hole and rivet this on the back side.

With fierce guard dogs like that, who needs a lock?

I have carpet on mine, with a recessed spring loaded handle to open the door. The sub woofer is on the driver's side.

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That's good idea for the door.

I found a locksmith to do the hole punch. Waiting on a Pelican to come by and pick some bumper parts, then off to get "punched".....film at 11.

Crud....they wouldn't do it because it was too thick a material and in the car......back to drilling and filing.....