Cut it off? Welding question
 

I have a 73 Volkswagen THING, its a whole lot of fun and I enjoy it often.
Recently I obtained a factory Hard Top which is kinda rare. Its in great shape too.
Here's the deal, my THING has a roll bar with a peak in the middle bar 30" back from the windshield.
The top will not go over the bar.

I am considering cutting the roll bar. But how far do I want to cut?

a. all the way off to the uprights.

b. leave enough of the cross bar on each side to weld a straight piece onto

c. cut out the peak part and then weld in a straight bar

I can't weld - well I have but have no equipment.

So I can cut the old bar ( recip saw) but will need to hit a shop in warmer weather to get the welding done

Ideas are appreciated

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1481210272.JPG

I see the peaked bar in the photo. Assuming that the ONLY issue with the bar is the one peaked bar in the middle, then I would probably go for option C. Just replace the peaked bar with a straight bar.

cut it all off? Or just the peaked section

I'd leave stubs on both sides, about 12", then find a tube with the same ID ad the OD of existing bars. Slide over and through bolt, like the Autopower 911 Roll cage. This way, in the event of an incident, the stubs would be safer.

I'm not a cage designer, but without diagonal bracing, is it functional or cosmetic? Why keep the roll cage?

I like that idea. 12" ? Sounds like a winner

I like the way the roll cage looks when I use the bikini top. warm weather times. I don't drive it off road any

Then dare I say it? Pvc painted black for the summer time...... ;)

Thats one idea, cheap too..I think I will try to stay metal..

I am wondering if I get metal pipe, and the stubs are 12" long, how would the pipe go over them. Seems I could get them over shorter stubs maybe.?

As long as the overlap of the new pipe is less than 12 inches, like 11 15/16 will do it.

If the frame is one solid piece, this doesn't require any welding but leaves ugly bolts:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1481220931.jpg

(Pardon the over-engineering.)

Option c. Find a local welder to moonlight. Can't take more then an hour including cutting the bar.

You could cut just one side, remove a bit at the cut, and then with a portable pipe bender, take out the hump. Then just have someone reweld and all will be good again. Only issue I see it that the center pipe is angled up where it is welded to the side pipes. So to be perfect, I would just cut it out and weld in a new straight one. This would be the fastest way to do it and have it look right.

How much headroom do you have with the center bar? I wouldnt want to hit my head on that thing.

Sorry, it was a bad idea. I think PVC would have sharp shards when impacted.

If you cut it to 13" less than the width between the sides, it would slide over one side, then align and slide over the other.

+1

If you were to just cut out the center section of the peaked crossbar , the "stubs" would still be angled. So, the only way to deal with it is to completely remove the peaked section and weld in a new straight piece.

I just noticed that myself...I guess I will remove the whole section, leave it out for the winter, then get a welder to add the straight piece in Spring...

Thanks guys,,,

A better option.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/12...g?v=1479146282

http://execstudio.com/products/acg_n...t-r_r35_03.jpg

Is that roll bar a factory option? I'd say without diagonal bracing it will not provide any roll protection. If you want to drive the car get a proper roll bar designed and installed - otherwise you are driving a death trap. Someone pointed out the bump in the one bar might be there for head clearance - very good point. If you put in a straight bar - you or someone else could hit a bump and bump your head.

no head bumping unless you are trying to stand up. I dont off road and the Thing is very stable..
Not a factory roll bar

I would lose the rollbar. Why try to keep it when you are installing a hard top?