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Bully's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
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94 GMC pickup mystery starting problem

Guys, got a 94 GMC Sierra 350.
Looking to sell it, it's been sitting awhile but running fine when parked it.
Went out to fire it up this morning as it's been a bit cold here.
Almost started right up, but battery was sounding tired. jumped it off my other pickup, and now nothing. No dash lights, no headlights, no nada.
Any ideas?
thx!

Old 12-08-2016, 11:04 AM
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Battery connections, or fusible link ?
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:10 AM
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It's not clear if the truck started when you jumped it, or if you tried to jump start it and it 'died'.

Are you sure the polarity was right on the jumper cables? There is likely also a main fuse that might have failed.
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:11 AM
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Get a multi-meter for $6.
Search results for: 'multimeter'
It'll tell you battery voltage levels, voltage drops, whether there's power to something, etc. Great for everything.

Popped main fuse? Are the engine/tran ground cables there and clean? Is there play in the ignition switch?
Start with the battery.
Old 12-08-2016, 11:24 AM
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Hopefully you didn't cross the jumper cables?
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:36 AM
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OK no particular order:
No cross connection of cables. truck was almost starting but it's cold so battery was tired. After I connected jumper cables I got zip.
Checked and cleaned connections.
Fusible link looks OK
Messed with ignition switch tried neutral back to park etc.
Got a volt meter battery fine.
Negative to block reads fine.
Old 12-08-2016, 11:49 AM
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No head lights or dash lights.
It's like there's no ground, but when I ground the block to the negative terminal with a jumper I still have nada
Old 12-08-2016, 12:06 PM
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Sounds like battery is too dead to jump. Try another battery if you know your connections are good.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:21 PM
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Put the jumper cable from the block to the body. You may not have a chassis ground, the engine might be insulated from the chassis, or you may have burned off a jumper.

Or just measure the voltage at the cigarette lighter and then from + to the engine block.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeCleElum View Post
Sounds like battery is too dead to jump. Try another battery if you know your connections are good.
Good point. Pull the + off the truck battery and connect it to the jumper cable only.

And measure the battery voltage with the ignition and headlights on.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
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OK no particular order:

Negative to block reads fine.
What exactly do you mean by this? Positive to block should show voltage near 12v. Negative to block should show continuity.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipper35 View Post
What exactly do you mean by this? Positive to block should show voltage near 12v. Negative to block should show continuity.
A thought on this:
A ground wire can be attached with one thin strand remaining, and still show continuity using the multimeter ohms setting.
But when the big amps start flowing, there will be a huge voltage drop there.
The best way to find this is using the volt setting on both sides of the connection while cranking.
Old 12-08-2016, 12:39 PM
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Sounds like a cooked battery cell. Open the fill/vents plugs, do you smell rotten eggs?
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:48 PM
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Sorry boys, battery is good.
positive to block shows 12.6
I have had the bad ground cable before that's why I say I jumped the neg terminal to block and still no headlights.
All connections at starter fine,
Got to be a fcked cable I guess..
Old 12-08-2016, 01:00 PM
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And all fused links appear fine.
Like I say, everything was fine until I jumped the bloody thing
Old 12-08-2016, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bully View Post
And all fused links appear fine.
Fusible Link - Ask the GM Technician - GM-Trucks.com
For what it's worth, GM uses 5.0 mm sq. fusible links on their factory auxiliary battery option for the charging wire. Two, actually. One between the battery and the relay, and the other between the relay and the starter. In additon, GM has a 40 amp Mega fuse protecting the loads from the Auxiliary battery.
...
A fusible link on the other hand, works for protecting from catastrophic damage from a dead short that isn't consuming the current by turning a motor, but is instead just generating heat. Thus the link melts apart, end of current flow.
Old 12-08-2016, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bully View Post
Sorry boys, battery is good.
positive to block shows 12.6
I have had the bad ground cable before that's why I say I jumped the neg terminal to block and still no headlights.
All connections at starter fine,
Got to be a fcked cable I guess..
Measure at the cigarette lighter...
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Old 12-08-2016, 01:23 PM
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If all dead and battery good - try fusible link - it's not quite what you think it is, looks different;

Sparky's Answers - 1994 Chevrolet C3500, Replacing A Damaged Fusible Link

For the record - just TWO DAYS ago, I got to replace a dead nuts shorted battery in my daily driver 1999. Cranked a little slow one day, next day nothing and would NOT take a charge. New battery, now zero issue.

angela
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Old 12-08-2016, 01:52 PM
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So here it is: the positive cable had failed just at the side post connection.
That's a first for me. ( don't get me started on the genius that decided that side post batteries were a good idea on a work truck..)
Chopped everything off wired it to a post clamp ( the battery had both side and post ) and presto changeo!
Flashed right up and the guy is headed over with the cash!
Thanks for the input guys!
Old 12-08-2016, 02:04 PM
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Awesome! In true Pelican fashion - you got to the bottom of the issue and fixed the problem. Conquered!

Count me as another person who hates those stupid side posts...

angela

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Old 12-09-2016, 05:37 AM
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