Tahoe ignition/battery question...
 

We lost the key to our 2005 Tahoe (I know, I know) and had two keys made at the dealer. They work the door and turned the ignition once, but the battery was dead. I had to recharge the battery, but now the key won't turn the ignition switch.

Is there a process I need to do to get the key to work?

New key is not worn, the ignition tumblers are.

Jiggle it.

Also, steering column interlock.

They get finicky on the older cars, take pressure off the lock by jiggling the steering wheel.

Advice learned from my 01 and 05 GMC trucks.

If the keys are the ones with an electronically programmed chip, that may be the issue. Contact the dealer to see if that could be the problem.

Edit: just checked and the 2005 doesn't have a transponder key. Do you have a chipped key fob? That may be the thing to re program. If so, check this site. http://www.programautokeys.com/classified/Browse.asp?cid=96

I've jiggled the key and rotated the steering wheel. It's a no go.

Not sure about a chipped key fob, but I need to get the ignition switch to turn on to program the remotes from what I've read online.

My experience with new keys has been that it's usually a sharp edge that is keeping it from turning. You might take and give it a light sanding on the edges to knock off the sharpness.

I'll give that a try.

Thanks everyone.

Yeah, not worn yet.

You had 2 keys made?

You probably already did this but try both and since they are (supposed to be ) symmetrical try one way then flip 180 and try again.

Hit the key on the wire wheel a bit. Be careful they are soft brass. Also, the most common problem with cutting a key from code is the relation of the cuts to the tip as in the key is too long or too short. Try inserting it all the way and pull it back out just a little bit. Also a little wd-40 might help.

Don't spray wd-40 in a lock.

Spray can graphite is what you want.

I have an issue with a 'new' key for my truck. The key only works if I pull it out ~2-3mm, and try a few times. PITA but it always works.

I tried the keys again this morning. One key fits the door, but it's tight. The other key doesn't work at all. Neither key works the ignition switch no matter if I flip it or move it in or out some.

Thinking worst case, I talked to the dealer about a new cylinder lock. I can get a new one for $50-60 and rekey it to my new keys.

I'm going to try and sand or wire wheel the new edges first.

The dealer would have made your keys from the VIN. If anyone has changed the locks, then the key is just plain wrong. If no one has changed the locks and NONE of the keys work properly (or at all) in the door or ignition - than the key is wrong and the dealer should remake it.

If they won't - THEN knock the high spots off...to work with your worn bits. If you do this first, and then find out the key is just plain wrong, the dealer probably isn't going to replace them.

angela

I sanded down the square edges of the key tonight and no joy. It does seem to work better in the door though, so maybe a little more sanding....

Angela, the keys were made from the VIN. If the dealer doesn't take them back, I'm ok with it, as they were only $15 each.

Sounds like someone changed the cylinder already. I would take the cylinder lock out and remove the tumblers.

I've had several cars where any old key would work.

If the key he lost worked on the door and ignition then the cylinder was almost certainly not changed.

When we tried the new keys, the key turned to the start position, the started clicked and then died. Since then, we've not been able to get it to turn.

That's why I thought it might be a chipped key that prevents it from turning with a dead battery.

Update...

Still no joy with the key, so I started on another project - Removing the instrument cluster so I can get it serviced. All the gauges are out, etc.

In order to remove it, I needed to get the shift lever down. I can't do that because I can't turn the key to unlock it. I go back to the ignition switch. I'm thinking I'll just remove the ignition switch off the column and that will free it up.

Pulled the covers to the steering column to see what under there. I see I can't access the ignition switch bolts without removing the steering wheel. Remove the steering wheel, etc and I'm down to the horn ring. No way to figure out to remove it since it won't pull off. I use the brute force method and break it off to access the ignition switch bolts. I figure I can live without a horn if I can't get the parts to fix it. Removed the switch, lowered the shifter and removed the instrument cluster.

I tried to start the car while everything was apart, but it only turns over, starts for a second and dies. I'm hoping when I get the new ignition switch and put it together, it will fire up....

Be careful with that steering wheel.

You don't want to trigger the airbag.

Personally I think I'd stop now.

You seem to have electrical gremlins behind the dash?

I can't think of anything that you've taken apart that would keep the vehicle from running.

Maybe someone more familiar with the underlying systems can chime in but it feels like this truck is a slippery slope that will deposit you on the back of a wild goose which will take you for a ride before dumping you down a rabbit hole.

Your best course of action might be to roll it to the curb, stick a For Sale sign in it and call it a day.

I'd advise only taking non refundable deposits.

I think the truck is ok. It looks and runs great except the dash went out one day recently.

The ignition switch parts are cheap. Just need to order them. It's a fourth vehicle so no rush.

I should have gotten keys made this summer when my brother gave the truck to us. Just got busy...