My Porsche dealer resets the oil light for me. I do buy the oil and filter from them and generally try to be a good customer other than wanting to do the simple stuff myself.

Do they charge you to do that?

Our dealer charges $80 just to hook up the computer from what I have heard. Since there is no place to hook a computer on my 911 I have no first hand knowledge of that.

I would like to do the lock thing. It got old, the first time I drove a Cayman. 18 months into ownership, I got a beep beep telling me I have a fault in that system :mad: . I took out the fuse and unplugged the beep beep horn until I figure the cause.

Another point to consider, Durametric sells refurbished kits that come with the full warranty. I contacted them a few months ago and got pricing for an Enthusiast kit for $217 (normally $287), and a refurbished Pro kit for $547 (normally $735).

Very compelling. I'd have to move my PC into the garage to run Durametric. But that is OK with me. I like not relying on any single piece of hardware. They say you can re-install the software as many times as you like.

No charge

A parallel "test case" for OBDII scanner equipment:

The '02 Benz E320 is throwing codes. 422 and 432 "Main catalyst efficiency below threshold Bank 1 and Bank 2". Check engine light came on. I checked that the DME is operating in closed loop, and looked up the voltage values coming from all 4 O2 sensors, and even plotted them on a map using data stream and data logging over 2 mins. All 4 sensors are active and "look" to be good. I took it to a shop with a scope to confirm. I'll see what they say. Obviously an OBDII scanner can't reset the airbag light, the service reminder, cycle the brake calipers for bleeding, re-set caliper for brake pad thickness after replacement, etc.

Update on the E320:

The tech called back and said that all 4 O2 sensors are working, but the rear two are "overworking", meaning that the cats are indeed bad.

That is counterintuitive, because the rear sensors are the oldest part of the whole system. But it confirms the data that I was seeing, and the "code connect" diagnosis to replace the cats. I have to decide what to do with the car, but I guess this time OBDII did a pretty good job.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484089282.jpg

So I just ordered the Durametric software and cable. I also had to order a laptop with Windows 7 (because I hate Win 8 and Win 10). I didn't want to have to move my desktop PC outside each time, and I have only Mac Book Pros, which won't work with Durametric for sure.

I'll post a review and data for you guys when I become familiar with the new software.

That would be great.

It is easy to buy an old Windows laptop. Many would still XP or Win 7.

Did you order the pro version or the enthusiast 3 vin version?

I have Win 7 Pro at home and I like it, and all of my programs work on it. I figure they should work on the new laptop, which can be a backup computer for home stuff.

I thought about it for a while, and decided to buy the enthusiast version. While I hate the idea of being limited to 3 VINs, I guess I'll just have to refuse when friends ask to borrow the software. More than likely, by the time I use all 3 VINs, I'll be on to other software or I'll like the program enough to buy the pro upgrade. I do like the fact that I can receive future software upgrades. And then there's the uncertainty of using software that I'm totally unfamiliar with, which is why I will post a review for you guys, so you can make your own call.

Cool. Thanks for the update.

To me Durametric is a great tool for the price. I mainly use it to check for camshaft deviation to see if there could be am IMS issue on the horizon.

Here's a great video that explains both short and long-term fuel trim, and it's role relating to the O2 sensor. I highly recommend it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5WnM_NsOtd8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

And for background, I recommend the book "Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management" by Charles E. Probst.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485541013.jpg

The Durametric cable came in on Monday, and the laptop yesterday. It took longer to set up Windows than it did to install the Durametric software and reset my service reminder.

I fully recommend Durametric. A few things: they just updated the software, so you'll probably be using version 6 or later. It appears that huge improvements have been made, because the software is much easier to use than the demo videos. It follows a philosophy of sending and receiving signals. You can't just read all trouble codes at once. You open a module, ask for trouble codes for that module (for example, "DME". Or, "instrument cluster control panel", or "Left side door", etc etc.

You can then check for codes and begin troubleshooting. The pro version has the ability to send low level Porsche code language to that tested component through the software module, but the "enthusiast" version does not.

If you are an advanced user, I recommend the Pro version for this reason. If you are not, then you might stick with the enthusiast software. I figure that if I ever need deeper troubleshooting, then I'll be OK with paying for the pro version, no problem. It appears that the Pro and Enthusiast software use different cables also.

I'll dig into it further, but you can get a lot more information from the Durametric than OBDII. There really is no comparison. You can get over-rev information, way more error code information and code history, and print data logging to files. I'll look into short and long term fuel trim data logging, which alone is worth the price of the software, no doubt about it.

Yeah, that Bosch book is rad.

Thought I'd post a tidbit of info regarding Durametric.

I am TOLD that you need to buy the Pro version to do any coding changes. I did read that, but I'll verify and edit this post if it turns out to be different. I'm trying to turn "OFF" the seatbelt chime.

If it turns out that I need the Pro version, then there will be a cheap enthusiast version for sale that has one VIN code slot used.

Don't sell your current enthusiast cheap. Durametric upgrades your existing to pro for the difference in price. Best deal out there. And if you call and they have rehab units you save even more.

^ The cable is an enthusiast cable. I think they'd have to send a new cable maybe?

I took jr's advice, contacted Durametric. They credited me the price of the Enthusiast cable, which I used toward the Pro cable.

Definitely get the Pro cable! Only drawback is that I bought some cheapo crapbox Dell laptop so that I can run the software. I only have Mac laptops, and it's not pracitcal to set my desktop PC up in the shop.

The main features in both the Pro and Enthusiast versions is that you can run tests of all of the components which are connected to the DME. For example, you can run a test of the gauges, the door locks, windows, AC compressor and blower, radiator fan, even the airbags (!). Of course, you can clear the service reminder, and airbag light with both versions.

Where the Pro and Enthusiast models vary is that only the Pro lets you change the car's settings. For example, I turned off the annoying seatbelt warning completely. To do that, you have to turn off the seatbelt sensor on the driver's side. I left the passenger sensor alone. I also noticed that the spoiler activator was on, which was a mistake from the factory since the car came with a fixed rear spoiler. Is it worth the money? It is, because it will pay for itself and it works on all current Porsches, not just the Cayman S.