Mitsubishi Montero Sport Maintenance Question, a bit verbose

[Tobra]

I had to put off the radiator project on the Mazdaspeed Miata, shame too, the aluminum is so very shiny.

Apparently, whatever combination of ground unicorn horn and rubber they were using to make the lower radiator hose has run out, which I find out when I open the box with 7 out of 8 hoses, only one that is radiator inlet/outlet diameter; but that is another story.

Figure I will do maintenance on the wife's rig, a shockingly reliable Montero Sport. I already have most of the stuff I need, a bunch of coolant and distilled water for a start anyway. Did some looking, and the automatic transmission fluid has to be this SPIII stuff, (SP stands for Special Pixie, because the blood of one ambidextrous pixie is squeezed into it, or that is my suspicion). The consequences of using any other fluid fall somewhere between catastrophic failure and "dude, why you stressin'?" Dealership is right on the way to the hospital, which is the destination of the muffins sitting next to me. Website says parts department is 8-4 today, sweet. Get there, two old car salesman guys drinking coffee, where is parts? Oh, they don't come in today, maybe in Roseville, 15 minutes down the road. Website was wrong, that is what I get for not calling, but it is on the way to the hospital. Dwayne does not get to go home, but his foot looked better than I thought it would.

I still need the transmission stuff, so I call the dealer in Roseville, no, we are not a Mitsubishi dealer anymore, we don't have any parts for them, just Kia now. I mention I need transmission fluid, and he says, that SPIII stuff, I have a ton of that sitting on the shelf, it is what the Kia uses, bonus. Get a price check, and I am on my way to Roseville. On the way, saw a sweet two tone '57 Chevy coupe, maroon over black, stance was just right, and a fairly new, white 911 turbo convertible, the front brakes were ridonculous, caliper was big, like cartoon big, no wonder it has cartoon big wheels.

Grab the only open spot in the lot at the dealership, fortuitous in its proximity to the parts department. Nice young man at the counter, grabs my stuff and I am out. Got my distilled water, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid already. Now, as they say, to the question.

The parts thing lists the juice for both the transmission and the rear differential as a dealer item. How important is that going to be for a differential? It is a limited slip, standard for the loaded package that came with heated seats, which the wife loves, and the Infinity sound system I like, so it says it needs Diamond Star LSD gear oil in the pumpkin. I plan to go get the OEM stuff, but what could be so special about it?

The transmission needs the Special Pixie fluid. Transmission is pretty complicated, automatic transmission raises to the level of magic box to me, so keeping it alive means I drive over and get the stuff. What could be in the differential that would not work with gear oil and the LSD additive? I guess maybe the OEM stuff just has the amount of the friction modifier already mixed into it.

[VincentVega]

Valvoline max life

Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II, SP-III, ATF-J3, Dia Queen ATF-PA

Among many others. Get it at walmart.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Tobra

I had to put off the radiator project on the Mazdaspeed Miata, shame too, the aluminum is so very shiny.

Which radiator? FM Crossflow or something else?

[rusnak]

I gotta say, I just follow the book to the letter when it comes to coolant, oil, brake and power steering, etc. Even to the point that I buy the Pentosin stuff, which is craaaazy expensive, and Porsche antifreeze.

[yetibone]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

Valvoline max life



Among many others. Get it at walmart.

Yes. This. There's no need to get ATF from a Mitsubishi dealer when Maxlife covers Mitsubishi's specs perfectly. I have used it before on '02, and '04 models with absolutely no difference in performance, or shortening of it's service life. Both those Montero Sports are 200K+ mile vehicles now, and still going strong. They're built extremely well.

Not sure about the differentials though, but I can't think of anything in there that would suffer from the use of any brand hypoid gear oil in the proper viscosity, with limited slip additive already included, or added separately. There's no yellow alloy, or non-ferrous metals in there that I can remember, except for the material that they make the LS clutch's friction material from. I don't think the diffs specify synthetic fluid, but if it were mine, I would use it with the LS additive already in it.

Is yours AWD Toby?

[scotricker]

So, I too, have an agonizing question about MY wife's 99 Mitsu Montero Sport. It seems to be a very well built vehicle, 187,000 miles, but it smokes white at idle sometimes. I've been all over the internet, and have noticed references to "the dreaded Mitsubishi valve seal issue" It's a 3.0 V6, (not 3.5) . I've been thinking to do that secret magic don't-take-the-heads-off replace the valve seals job with special secret tools.
Any experienced advice ?

[javadog]

Given the relatively low cost of gear lube and the small quantity needed, why not just use the recommended stuff? The difference in cost can't be more than what I intend to spend on lunch today and you have to get really deep in the weeds before you'll have any understanding of what you really need and what alternatives may or may not do. I've researched greases and oils for other situations and it's largely wasted time trying to understand all there is to understand about it. I also don't put any stock in anecdotal internet stories, since is takes mere seconds to find all sorts of opposing opinions. They can't all be right...

JR

[Tobra]

I am going to use the OEM stuff. It holds 3.5 quarts, which sounds big. Last time I did this stuff at the dealer, because they had it anyway for some recall thing. Has been a pretty solid little truck though, and it keeps passing smog. Needs a timing belt done. I saw the Valvoline and Castrol products for the transmission, but was out and about anyway. I had my head set on getting the SP III stuff, I am a Taurus, what can I say.

Originally Posted by masraum

Which radiator? FM Crossflow or something else?

CSF

I wanted a drop in for it, so it was stock, Koyo or CSF. I don't like the plastic/aluminum sandwich radiators, which narrowed it down. All aluminum rad should be a little more durable. Crossflow is nice, but pricey, mine was a little more than half what that would have cost, and will greatly increase cooling capacity.

Should look something like this, except with something to seal up the huge gap between the rad and the support.

CSF MSM install thread

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Tobra

CSF

I wanted a drop in for it, so it was stock, Koyo or CSF. I don't like the plastic/aluminum sandwich radiators, which narrowed it down. All aluminum rad should be a little more durable. Crossflow is nice, but pricey, mine was a little more than half what that would have cost, and will greatly increase cooling capacity.

Should look something like this, except with something to seal up the huge gap between the rad and the support.

CSF MSM install thread

Cool, I'd considered the Koyo, but decided to splurge. The FM was 97% direct bolt in, but not quite and certainly not cheap.

That looks good. I also hate the plastic tank thing. We owned 3 miatas over the years, and replaced the plastic radiators on every one of them.

[Tobra]

I am going to see how much more volume the new one is compared to the old one while it is apart, so I can figure the increase and still be able to flush the cooling system the way I do now. Flush with distilled water until clear, put in however much coolant it needs for the mix I want and then top it up with water. I am not tracking it, so I am not too worried about cheaping out and not getting the cross flow. I am fairly sure it will be a significant increase in capacity, it looks freakin' huge.

The Montero Sport has over 10 quarts in its cooling system, according to the manual, takes a fair amount of distilled water to flush that baby out. Gallon of Prestone gets me to 40% coolant, which is plenty for my purposes. Trans fluid was fairly dark, but did not smell burned and looked clean. Probably placebo, but it seems to shift smoother.

[VincentVega]

Originally Posted by javadog

Given the relatively low cost of gear lube and the small quantity needed, why not just use the recommended stuff? The difference in cost can't be more than what I intend to spend on lunch today and you have to get really deep in the weeds before you'll have any understanding of what you really need and what alternatives may or may not do. I've researched greases and oils for other situations and it's largely wasted time trying to understand all there is to understand about it. I also don't put any stock in anecdotal internet stories, since is takes mere seconds to find all sorts of opposing opinions. They can't all be right...

JR

If you use a compatible fluid there is no reason to use one over the other except for cost and/or availability. For me it's much simpler to get the compatible coolant, atf, whatever at walmart or the local parts store then deal with inflated prices and limited hours at a dealer. Both options are correct, do whatever works for you.

[VincentVega]

Originally Posted by scotricker

So, I too, have an agonizing question about MY wife's 99 Mitsu Montero Sport. It seems to be a very well built vehicle, 187,000 miles, but it smokes white at idle sometimes. I've been all over the internet, and have noticed references to "the dreaded Mitsubishi valve seal issue" It's a 3.0 V6, (not 3.5) . I've been thinking to do that secret magic don't-take-the-heads-off replace the valve seals job with special secret tools.
Any experienced advice ?

I put valve guide seals on a 2.4 mitsu that was smoking like a chimney, straight forward job. I havent seen the a v6 Montero in a while so only going my internet picture there seems to be room but I'm not sure. I like to use air to keep the valve closed and clamp the valve too be sure. You might need a few different spring compressors depending on access. Only 'secret' is what spring compressor to use, no magic.

Good luck

[scotricker]

Thanks Vincent, sorry Tobra for the hijack,

[Tobra]

You kidding, I hijacked it in the first sentence

[javadog]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

If you use a compatible fluid there is no reason to use one over the other except for cost and/or availability. For me it's much simpler to get the compatible coolant, atf, whatever at walmart or the local parts store then deal with inflated prices and limited hours at a dealer. Both options are correct, do whatever works for you.

Here are the problems with that mentality. First, the average consumer doesn't know enough about any of the fluids to make any useful judgements about them.

Second, the manufacturers never put enough information on the packaging to make any useful comparisons. I can think of several instances of an engine oil that was once very good being changed to one that was not very good and there was no change on the packaging. Not only that, the manufacturer chose to not publish any information about the oil, so that no comparisons could be made, even if you tried to research it.

Third, many products at Wal-Mart are made in a version for them, as Wal-Mart limits the price they will pay for something. This may not be true of gear oils, but it's true of a lot of other products and they'll never tell you which ones.

I can think of many fluids that are compatible but not the best idea to mix. Then there's the whole "will fit" mentality. Many things "will fit" but are demonstrably inferior to the original item. There are things you might buy at Wal-Mart and the only difference would be the price. Then there are things sold there that I wouldn't buy under any circumstance.

Your money, your choice. I generally choose not to risk a large investment in a car to save a couple bucks on something I can't vet. I have a background running large service departments in franchised car dealerships and I've seen firsthand the damage that an uneducated consumer can do to a car buy thinking that he knew more than the engineers that designed it.

JR

[VincentVega]

I agree with you, fluids arent as simple as they used to be. If you arent willing to read a bit and figure it out by all means, please, use the manufacture supplied fluids.

For this specific case, transmission fluid, there are several options. Check the documentation here, http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf If you arent willing to do that and only grab whatever is on the shelf your are taking undue risk. Nothing fancy, no expertise needed, just RTFM.

[javadog]

Actually, his original question was about differential lube, not transmission fluid...

It is irrelevant anyway, since long ago he decided to go with the manufacturer's recommended fluid.

JR

[sammyg2]

My wife bought a honda pilot when they first came out.

It was about three years old when the power-steering reservoir got topped off with regular ole power steering fluid.

It only took a few ounces, $900 worth.

New pump, flush everything etc.

Gotta use special HONDA power steering fluid.

That was the last honda we'll ever own.

[Tobra]

It is 2 WD. Got it when we lived in Texas, which is flatlands. With good tires that thing could go anywhere I had any business going in Texas. 4 WD would be nice for going to the mountains here though. I bet that thing would be a go anywhere beast with 4 WD. It towed my Integra, packed full of clothes, on a dolly from Houston to Sacramento like it was not even there. Body on frame truck with 200 hp and 200 torque, LSD, clutch type it turns out, with 4.64 gears, guess it should be no surprise it would tow something. She started out thinking she was going to get a 4 Runner, but she liked this one better. She had a Chevy Stepside truck prior to the SUV though, and the Mitsubishi is definitely more of a truck than the Toyota.

Funny thing on that car, the power steering pump uses regular Dexron II ATF. Transmission and differential spec the dealer mix dyno juice. Found a PDF online, shop manual for the rear end, exploded diagrams, all the torque specs. The internet, wow.


This part is right out of the owner's manual

Conventional differentials use SAE 80W or SAE 90W API GL-5.
Limited slip differentials use Mitsubishi Gear Oil (8149630 EX), or
Mopar Gear Oil (4318058) and Mopar Friction Modifier (4318060).

[rusnak]

Kudos on having a wife with great taste in vehicles.

As I said, I follow the manufacturer's lubrication and service chart as much as I can - meaning that I get hold of the service manual and follow it to the letter. Cars now are engineered to such a high degree that you really must follow the specs, with but a few exceptions. I do the same with everything that I own: tractor, ATV, lawn mower, pressure washer, water pump, etc. I am sort of amazed at how specialized oils and greases are now, but they really are. Back in the day I'd have put whatever oil I had into the pressure washer. Today, that would wreck a $4,000 pressure washer because I'd need a new pump.