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Where to Buy Heavy Duty Free Floating Shelves?
I have 4 free floating shelves in my office where some of my trophies sit. The metal frame is screwed into the studs, tubing bent upwards slightly to compensate for the weight of the trophies. After many trys and adjustments, they sag.
I'd rather not DYI, but will unless there is no other choice. Example: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488476556.jpg |
You're using the wrong kind of battery. :D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488477366.jpg Without seeing the mounting hardware it's hard to tell what else would be better. |
What??
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Antigravity won't work, the trophies will just float away.
Fill the trophies with helium. :) (Is there any way to slip a shim of some kind under the lower edge of the shelf?) |
For free-floating shelves that will hold a lot of weight, suggest you make or look at shelves mounted with a french cleat.
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If you're going to mount any shelf required to support weight against drywall (i.e. trophies), you need at least 4" of vertical support below the shelf. Drywall is soft. Unless you have a rigid rod type mount at least 2" into the shelf and studs, and correctly spaced to the thickness of the drywall, a non-vertically supported floating shelf is going to sag.
I realize you want the clean look of a truly "floating" shelf, but that ain't gonna hold trophies against drywall with toggles or drywall screws. |
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Got it - but they are screwed into the studs
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Yep, French aint gonna to work. The only way to do this is to fab up some steel brackets, remove the drywall and screw them onto the studs. Patch and paint the wall, slip the shelf (2 pieces of plywood nailed and glues to a cleat) onto the steel sticking out of the wall. Between the brackets there will a wooden cleat for the shelf to screw or nail onto.
We just about to finish this project with the floating shelves in the kitchen. It will hold 100 lbs easily. The shelves are sagging or point downward. its my professional photography work at best. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488519528.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488519528.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488519528.jpg |
Nice kitchen. Good work flow.
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Thanks. That's a pretty cool house. There are no regular doors to get in the way. All openings are 4'+ and are all single pocket doors, not paired. We had to get all the doors (single pane glass within a wood frame) made and are on some crazy smooth and expensive European sliding hardware. Fun (for the owners anyway).
I need to clarify that the shelves AREN'T sagging. |
I have shelves similar to the one above. The are hollow inside. 2x4s are lagged into the studs through the 4 inch side, so they stick out of the wall about 3 1/2 inches. The hollow shelves slip over the and are attached wit small screws.
For a thin 3/4 " shelf I would bore 3/8" holes in the studs and matching 3/8" holes in the back edge of the shelf. Cut 3/8 rod to an appropriate length and drive it into the studs, then just slide the shelf on the exposed rod. |
If you have wood studs:
Get 'centerpoints' for dowels, but skip the dowels. Drill into studs, use centerpoints to mark back of shelves. Drill holes larger, and use gas pipe or galv water pipe (3/8" or 1/2") instead of wood dowels. |
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Something like this would probably do the trick. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....15SCAC0D2L.jpg https://www.amazon.com/Burnes-Boston-LL2931-Level-Walnut/dp/B000B4X8UY/ |
IKEA Lack floating shelf:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488552227.jpg $20 each, many colors and tones. Claim to hole up to 33 pounds based on mounting technique. |
That mounting system above ^^^^^^^^ is exactly what I have now. I used beefy screws with large OD washers to hold bracket against the wall.
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You need an L bracket that mount to the face of the stud but that's a lot of work and $$$$ to do
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If you really what to do it right, cut out the drywall and screw a 2" x 6" between the studs, replace the drywall and screw the bracket to the studs AND the 2x6. We do it all the time to hang stuff on the walls here at the hospital.
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