need help on my air compressor
 

several days ago when my air compressor was running, I heard a loud pop and pssssssss. Motor was still running but tank is empty. Sounds of air coming out somewhere. I could be able to get down on it today and found a metal ball laying near there. It came out of a hole on the bottom of a "manifold" (blue arrow). That port is where the air hose connect to. The yellow arrow is the ball. Now if I turn it on, air comes out of that hole (the hole on the bottom of that manifold).

is it fixable? Anyone know how?

Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490948059.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490947975.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490947987.jpg

Is that a pipe thread? Can you not put a pipe plug in?

A ball is usually part of a check valve that allows air to flow in one direction only, but I can't see why you would have a check valve there....

Looks like it's the compressor check valve.
You'll have to figure out the NPT thread size and get a new one.
If the manifold is buggered you can easily make a new one out of NPT pipe and fittings. But you would have to buy a new regulator if you did this.

This explains the compressor check valve pretty well.

Compressor tank check valve

He said that's where the hose connects.

It's the female coupler that blew. Assuming female as I've never seen the male with a check ball.

This should fix it.

http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...AdCPMV9Biw.jpg

On the "ball" and "port" and "hole" I mentioned above, on the manifold that comes down at the blue arrow, that port is for the air hose to connect to. Right at the elbow, facing downward is a hole. I think that is where the ball came out. I look through the port, don't see anything in there, so I think the ball just fitted in there. It doesn't look like that there is a valve there. It's just at that hole now. The ball is stopping air to come out at that hole. I try to push the ball in from the outside (bottom up), it fit tight. It can hold air for a while. When PSI comes up, the ball pop out again. I can try pressing it in, or dropping it from the inside through the port, but it can come out once, it'll comes out again, right? Question is, what does that hole/ball do, what is it's function?

Reading the article on the link from Mark Henry, I don't see it function as a check valve. I do see another check valve on another manifold, the valve with a key chain ring. You can see it on my third picture on the right on that port.

I would not mess with old air compressor parts. Get a new valve unit with the regulator, switch, check valve, and unloader and be safe.

Name brand switch and regulator - $42.

https://www.zoro.com/campbell-hausfeld-pressure-switch-cw209300av/i/G5361291/?gclid=CMDZ1KSzgdMCFV61wAodCUwIXw&gclsrc=aw.ds

does this unit replace my whole manifold too? I think what I need is the manifold, either replace or fix it? The switch combo on top is still working

I'm not sure it's a direct fit, but these things are pretty generic. I'm not sure what is what or your rig from the pictures you posted. How does the air from the cylinders get into the tank? I can't tell from the photos.

Lines off the heads run into the manifold below the control unit and behind the gauge.

I'd just replace the manifold.

I kinda thought that. That is a proprietary setup that would need to come from the manufacturer to get a direct replacement. Usually air is pumped directly into the tank and the regulator, switch, and unloader are screwed into a different port.

The valve with the ring isn't a check valve, it's the over pressure relief safety valve.

A check valve stops the air from going back to the head when the motor shuts off.
The over pressure relief safety valve keeps the tank from blowing up if the switch fails to shut off the motor at the set maximum pressure. The ring is so you can pull it to test the valve.

If it has an unloader valve that bleeds off the air between the head and the check valve.

^^^^ This is correct.

The compressor won't be able to re-start without a proper unloader circuit. When the tank is empty the motor will work, but with the back pressure of the tank on the piston you will overload the motor on a re-start.

The unloader circuit needs to work properly for the compressor to work right. I think you need a check valve there.

Some compressors (i.e. cheap compressors) don't have a unloader valve, they have an actual small pinhole in the piston top and that acts as an unloader.

Thanks guys.
A quick search on air compressor manifolds, I see this set of manifolds and swtich on ebay. Do you guys think if this will work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/125PSI-Air-Compressor-Pressure-Switch-Control-Valve-Manifold-Regulator-Gauges-/112238571609?hash=item1a21f0b059:g:c-MAAOSwWxNYroDB

Thanks.

I don't think the one on Ebay has a check valve in it.

I would just put a pipe plug in the hole and try it.

The eBay one is：

"Durable and utility.
Easy to install and disassembly."

Couldn't ask for more than that.

alright alright, I won't ask for more on that one. But I have a general question on what I need now. Since I dont' know how to, I won't fix my manifold. So I need to buy a new manifold but I can't find it. Can I just get any manifold that can fit in the area (with check valve, unloader valve)?

Anyone has the california air tools compressor? How can an air compressor be this quiet? I thought my old compressor with a belt is very quiet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ciXFWwL0OQ

Does the manufacturer of the air compressor have a web site? You might be able to get a direct replacement from them.

Can you post a few pictures of how the tubes run from the head?

It would be good to figure out how your unloader works.

Here: includes the unloader....

Air Compressor Pressure Control Switch Valve Manifold Regulator w/ Gauges Relief | eBay

wdfifteen, I can't find their website.

1990C4S, Is this the same as the one I posted above? Do you know which part is the unloader? Are the 2 brass fitting (with the little holes) are the check valve (the part that is broken on my air compressor)?

Thanks guys.

I think that the unloader is built into the pressure switch on the bottom.
It appears that the compressor discharge enters into the bottom of the pressure switch and that the pressure to the tank goes unregulated into the tank. Pressure to the lines passes through the regulator to the hose couplings.
Something that doesn't make sense to me is that the relief valve appears to be on the regulated air side of the manifold.

I got down and took everything apart to hold it on my hands and took some pics. The metal ball that popped out from the bottom of the port which connect the air hose to has nothing as a valve. At the elbow, there is hole which the ball fit tight in there. I think it's for safety as an emergency release valve, in case of over pressured, the ball pops and releases air. Why it popped while the pressured wasn't over? I think because it is too old. I pressed it back in the hole and installed everything back for right now. Let see how it goes. If I can find a better manifolds set, I would replace it.

The valve at the top where I labeled "Check valve?" has a ball and a spring inside to stop air to backward. It should be a check valve?

Question, what does the unloader do?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491466334.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491466348.jpg

The unloader releases the pressure in the cylinder and discharge line after shutdown. This allows for an "unloaded" start. Compressor starts easier without pressure on the discharge side to overcome while starting.

The ball is there to plug a machining hole. Notice that all the other air passages can be accessed through a port, the the U-shaped passage on that side couldn't be bored without boring through the wall of the casting.

Hate to say it, but how old is the tank/compressor? and chance of rust in/on tank? maybe it's time for a new one.....

^^

My thoughts too. It might not be worth fixing. But you COULD build your own manifold for about $70.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491485124.jpg

The info above (and on the previous page) is correct with respect to the unloader function.

A ball and a spring is a check valve, yes.

That ball is NOT a pressure relief, the pressure relief is the fitting with the ring on it. I can see it in your original post.

I suspect that the ball is a way to fill in a hole that is drilled as part of the manufacturing process.

Put the ball back in, add some hydraulic Loctite and center punch gently around the ball to retain it. The stand back and fire it up.

With respect to 'age'. Tap the bottom of the tank with a hammer (a pointed chipping hammer is best) to make sure the tank is not rusting out from the inside. That's how old tanks die.

I would not give up on that compressor, it is far better than most of the 'oiless' junk sold today.

As simple as that? I like it.
Question, does the check valve (valve with a ball for air go one direction?) go right before the tank, after all other components?
Do I need an unloader?

Thanks.

I did that last night and pumped it up a bit. This morning, I pumped it up to 120 PSI. It holds fine. I might adjust down a bit, maybe 110 or 115 PSI max for safety.

On tank rust, when I release air from the valve at the bottom of tank, I usually see some rusty (yellowish) water comes out first. If I do it several routes, then it's clear. So, maybe some rust.

Thanks

The check valve goes into the tank and lets air in from the compressor but doesn't let it back out. So, come to think of it, this wouldn't work as configured. The outlet to the hose needs to be between the tank and the check valve, or needs to use a separate port directly into the tank. Does your tank have more than one port into it? This switch has the unloader in it. It lets the air out of the pipes between the check valve and the pump so when the pump starts it starts from zero pressure so it can get going.

I see. Thanks. The only thing I see is on the pump, there is a hole and air coming out a bit when it's running

That switch has an unloader, the fitting on the bottom of the switch. You just need another T on the pipe fittings with a small tube (1/8", whatever size the fitting on the switch is) running from before the check valve to the switch.

If your motor is starting up fine without an unloader, then it likely has the small hole in the piston top that acts like an unloader.

my tank has 1 port only. I can have the check valve above tank and the air hose.
Thanks

If the compressor starts again when the air pressure drops then you know you do not have an unloader problem.

it does. Thanks.
Now, I wonder what that metal ball (which pressed into the hole) is for. Is it really for overloaded pressure as safety feature? If I do not need that, I can just glue/weld it in and be done.