Question on Hooking up Gas to and Oven
 

I just bought a dual-fuel oven/range and need to hook it all up. My previous stove was electric (no gas).

Fortunately, it looks like I have both Gas and 240v behind my stove. I need to install the correct fitting on the gas pipe. It currently looks like a capped 3/4 pipe.

I'm wondering if I should be installing a shut-off valve or to I just connect the gas line to this pipe (gas shut off, of course). Also, should I be using Teflon tape or joint compound?

Any advice would be great. The gas line kit that cam with my new stove has fittings with a special compression end that goes to the stove line but the other end is a male fitting that goes to my house - I will have to replace that with a female fitting so I'm inquiring before I go to the hardware store.

Thanks

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There's a special yellow teflon tape for gas piping. Also the flex line will be yellow. You definitely want a shutoff at the wall. Make sure the flex line is for a range, don't know what the difference is but some are specific for water heater, dryer, range.

I did the same thing several years ago. You need a shut off valve, and (don't hold me to it- the psi is a guess) a stepdown valve to regulate/ reduce pressure down to about 8 psi or something for the stove.

Our house has a large propane tank for heating, which I tapped into, so the stepdown was necessary. Depending on your pressure, that might not be necessary.

I don't remember the specifics, but that's the idea.

Thanks!

I will get a shut off valve. I think I will also get the new yellow gas line. The line that came with the stove is very flimsy.

You don't have to use the yellow tape. It is thicker and use you less wraps. With the white teflon tape, use 5 wraps.

Get a shutoff, female on both sides. If you need a reducer (I can't tell the size of the pipe in the wall), put it on the stove side of the shutoff.

And obviously, make sure the gas is off before opening that line. And make sure you know how to relight the pilots in the water heaters, if they have pilots.

When done check all connections with soapy water.

I had mine done a month ago. $75 and he was a certified gas-fitter.

As cheap as I am, this seemed like a good place to use a professional.

It kinda looks like the existing cap of that gas pipe is plastic. If it is, it will probably come off easy, but if it is metal and is on very tight and does not want to come off, easily, make sure the pipe that is going in the wall is not turning as you attempt to remove the cap. If it does, you may have a leak in the wall...

Use dope not tape, new dope is PTFE, good stuff I saw a demo and the guy only tightened the fittings finger tight with no leaks. Tighten it down proper and you never have to worry.
Don't put dope (or tape) on any of the tube flares, only on the pipe threads.

Shut off valve is also code here.
The yellow plastic coated is same as the uncoated, the yellow is now code for new installs, these also have an excess flow valve so if the flex broke and it's wide open it will shut off. If this safety valve is optional for your code spend the couple extra bucks and get it. Just an FYI compression fittings are not legal here, it must be a flare fitting or pipe thread (NPT).

You have to be able to pull the stove out without snagging the flex line, so I'd get a 36" line. Likely the pipe is 3/4" also code IIRC. An elbow will solve your adapter issue.

Once you're done mix a little dish soap with some water and with a small brush paint all the joints and look for bubbles, no bubbles and you're good to go. I'd even do any joints that the factory did.

Thanks all.

The gas cap on my photo is metal but looks plastic because it was painted at some point.

I got the proper shut-off valve that will fit the house pipe (female) and is male on the output side which will fit the flexible gas line.

I got the high-output flex line that is 5/8" since my stove is higher output and has at least one burner that is 19000 btu.

I will definitely hold the wall pipe still when removing the cap and will test with soapy water after I'm all done.

Thanks for the advice.

From a liability standpoint, I recommend using the yellow gas fitter tape. I agree that the white stuff will work perfectly fine but if there is an incident down the road... insurance companies work in strange ways.

You are correct but they would stop at "self installed" anyway.

Someone mentioned the PTFE "pipe dope". That's what I use for gas line install. I'd make sure you check to see if a drip leg is in the line below the floor. Most gas code requires a drip leg installed. I'd absolutely want a shutoff that is easily accessible. As someone else mentioned, be very careful backing that cap off! If you notice the pipe going in the wall turning at all I'd remove, install a reducer on the pipe down to 1/2" (normal appliance thread size) and then install the pipe back into the fitting in the wall.
BTW, there is PTFE labeled for gas lines.

i installed an elbow with a valve. that way i could get the unit pushed up against the wall closer.

It's all installed. I did get an elbow shutoff valve and that worked great.

Thanks for all the great advice.

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