Pool pump shutting off at random
 

Any ideas guys? My pool pump kicked off about 130 today when the timer isn't set to go off until 4. I let it sit for a few hours and it kicks back on and ran for about an hour and then shut off again. Started again after a cool off.

Pump is a Hayward Super II, motor is about a year old. I checked and there is nothing stuck in the impeller, baskets are clear, filter pressure is about 15psi, and it's flowing strong when it's running. I don't see anything that would be causing it to over heat?


Timer is a basic intermatic mechanical timer.


Any ideas what could be causing this?

Sounds like thermal protection circuit tripping. Maybe bad cap(s). Check to make sure air vents are not blocked/clogged too.

Yep. Start here... Would start out with the vent openings.

I'll check the vents but they looked clear.

Remembered the motor is still under warranty, so I reached out to the manufacturer also.

just backwash, it'll be alright.

Backwashed and rebuilt the DE filter last weekend.

Do you have a current clamp type electrical tester? Checking the amp draw is a good way to see if the motor is working too hard.

When the pump is running does the flow seem normal? You could have something binding the impeller shaft causing additional load on the pump motor.

Flow seems normal. It's been running for about 2 hours so far this morning.
Wondering if it is thermal protection. It's 96 now, as opposed to 111 when it shutoff yesterday.

It kicked off about 1130. I let it rest for a while and it came back on. I backwashed it, vacuumed and backwashed again and it was running strong still. Confirmed no obstructions and excellent flow. It shut off again about 30 mins after I was done vacuuming.

Really thinking it's an issue with the motor. I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow, hopefully they get a new one pretty quick, because at 110 degrees, I'm have a really green pool in just a few days.

They are air cooled pumps. At 110 degrees can you shade and add extra ventilation (fan) around the pump to see of that helps?

I believe those are switchable between 110 ans 220.........

It may run cooler at 220 power.

Did you break away the wet end from the motor to check? You had to have.

Kids used to shoot those air soft pellets into the pool and they would get by the basket and lodge in the impeller vanes. Same symptoms.

Just curious if you normally run it during the day, every day? Most folks here run their pumps at night (8-10 hours for the "average" size pool/pump).
That way the motor isn't baking in the sun while running, and it saves you money (off-peak hours).

Only other things that come to mind besides blocked air vents and/or bad running capacitor would be bad shaft seal and/or bearings, suction or pressure side restrictions, or any previous "thermal events" that could have melted the coating on the motor windings causing a short. If it's the latter, it will only get worse until it finally won't even turn on at all. That typically happens when the pump is ran dry, or without sufficient water flow (and it only take one occurrence to start the downward spiral). Is the trap filter reservoir completely full and free of air bubbles when running?

Regarding the cooling vents, some pumps have little "ducts" inside the motor cover than can get clogged. So, just clearing debris away from the openings may not completely "unclog" the airway.

Also, if it's not running optimally or long enough each day now (and it could be a few days to get it repaired/replaced) you may want to shock the pool ASAP.

I've always had it run during the day, by I'll flip it to run at night just to see if that helps the pump.



Vents are clear and I didn't have to clean them so I'm not thinking there was any obstruction there.

Doesn't show any signs of leaking around the shaft seal or anything of that nature. Hoping the motor manufacturer comes through with parts or a replacement.

Already shocked the piss out of it too, because I doubt this gets resolved until Wednesday at the earliest

Good deal. And yeah, run that SOB at night! I usually run it from 11pm to 7am. In addition to running a bit cooler, it could reduce your electricity bill a bit, depending on APS vs. SRP and/or what rate plan you are on.
If you do keep it running during the day, you might fab up a shade-sail or similar.

Shade sail is on my to do list anyways, just to keep the UV off the rest of my equipment.

I don't think it will make a difference on the rate plan we are on, but if the pump runs better, worth it.

Looks like it ran its whole time last night, so must have just been the sun. Not sure why it can't cope now if it survived all summer.

Bypass the timer to see if it is the culprit?

Motor company seems to think it's worthy of replacing. They'll send me a new motor for $25 in shipping. im not going to argue with that. Going to leave t running overnight and put a sun shade over the pool equipment to help with heat too.

saved me a hot water heater replacement. if the out vents look clear up high check to see if there is a vent down low for intake air. in or around the fan.

Vents all look clear. Motor company seems to think its an issue worthy of sending a new one out. I'm not going to complain! ;)

Fark it. I’m turning the pool into a koi pond.


The motor company sent out a new motor and all was good. Pool started getting green a few weeks ago from the combo of being down for a while and me letting the chlorine get away from me. I finally got it looking clear yesterday.


I get home today about 6, see a few spots that still look a little green so I brush the pool, kick the pump on and backwash. Flow is strong and no more green. Thinking I have this kicked now.


Go out just now and the damn pump is off again!!!! Still on at the timer and the breaker. Damn motor is warm to the touch and I can smell warm. What the hell is killing the motors? It was flowing strong and sounded great at 6, and then by 10 it’s shut itself off? Both skimmer baskets are clear.

The only thing I can think is that I turned the pop up cleaning system back in before leaving tonight. Could something in that system be causing the pump motor to over work and kick the thermal switch?

Variable Speed Drive....

I have the pump run from 6AM to 10PM but only run at high speed for 2.5 hours per day. Saves a lot of electricity and the pump and motor will run much cooler.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEP7VG4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That link is now quite expensive. You might just google "Variable Speed Pool Pump"

Sta-Rite SuperMax VS Variable Speed Energy Efficient Pool Pump, 230V

koi ponds as most people do them
are much more pump intensive with filters and showers and bottom drains SmileWavy
that run full time
plus air pumps

I am considered a Luddite for the way I do my pool/pond by koi fanciers
it is a concrete block 37x17x9 that I just fill and dump every 4-6 days
with no filters as S fla ground water is under 10 ft down and flowing
that does require two pumps one removing one adding to get 120% water changes
but I only part fill the pool/pond as that uses far less water and protects the koi from birds [we have lots of wading birds with the glades and bay near by]

koi keeping is fun but as much or more work then a pool and more pumps filters and stuff to mess with also

The pump kicking off is a new thing. My concern is that something is causing it to get hot, and thus would kill a new pump too.

To clarify, did you/they replace the entire pump assembly, or just the motor itself?

If the same thing is happening with a new unit, you might want to check the electrical service (voltage and amperage), and double-check the wiring (pump/timer/breaker/etc.).

Ruling out mechanical/electrical issues with the pump, you may have an issue with the filter and/or an air leak on the suction side that's allowing an over-pressure situation.
Does your filter have a bleeder valve?

Or put an amp meter on the draw side and see how many amps the pump motor is pulling against its rated specs.

A bad bearing or fouled impeller could increase friction and cause the motor to have to work harder.

Whats the pressure at the filter?How is the water flow at the pool inlets?

Yes filter has a bleeder valve and I bleed it any time I open the system out. Flow looks strong at the inlets when it’s running. I shut the pop up cleaner system off tonight and it still kicked itself back off after an hour or so.

Replacement was motor only , seems so strange that it’s been running fine for over a month and then has started with the same issue the last one had. I can’t figure it out.

Weird...

If it was just a motor swap, than I would look at replacing the trap filter lid/seal and maybe re-sealing the pipe joints. If you have a suction-side air leak that builds pressure in the filter, it will eventually get to a level that restricts flow (creates back pressure), putting a strain on the motor.

You can confirm by turning pump on and purging filter valve, then wait a while and do it again. If there was a bunch of air that purges the second time, you will know you are building pressure from a suction-side leak. Another "tell" is if there is any visable back-flow through the skimmer when pumps shuts off (let it run for a while, then pop the skimmer lid and observe the flow while someone shuts the pump off). If the back-pressure builds high enough it can actually "fountain" through the skimmers and pop the skimmer covers once the motor shuts off.

Sounds like possibly a mismatch between motor and impeller causing the motor to draw too much current. Motor rated HP is ridiculous these days and about the same as wattage ratings on amplifiers. A Super II pump is an up-rated design and if you have an up-rated 1hp motor on a full rated 1hp impeller the motor will trip the thermal switch. Maybe time to go back to square one and verify the motor and impeller "full rating" to be sure they match. You can also test this by checking AC voltage and current while under load to see if current draw is above the rating on the motor label.

The other possible problem is if the diffuser is worn out and the impeller is dragging under load. You should hear that though. My guess is you need to downsize the impeller to match the motor and all will be well again.

I checked for a suction side leak and nothing is showing up. After running for about 20 minutes the pump motor felt hot even though it’s in the shade and not miserably hot out.

I’ll check impeller size, but would it have run fine for the last 9 months if that was the issue?

Sounds to me like there is something wrong with the impeller. Do you have a clamp on am-meter?

No but I’ll ask the neighbors. One of them might

This would be a worthwhile purchase...

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeters-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Resistance/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_tr_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc= 1&refRID=CQ9VK7GFM2XCW8SQ07MZ

This one appears to measure DC with the clamp feature...

https://www.amazon.com/MS2108A-Range-Digital-Current-Tester/dp/B00SQ4UETO/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1507386464&sr=1-4&keywords=dc+clamp+meter