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Next Project, seeking advice: Channel Drain

My garage has sagged over it's 70 year life and water tends to pool up in the front left corner. Water will stay out of the garage until I open the door and then I will have a 1" puddle in the corner about 24-36" diameter. To combat this, I added a garage door threshold that has a 1" bump and this helps a lot.

To really help with this problem, I am going to add a 4" channel drain along the entire front of the garage area of my house. The water will then be routed to a planter bed that has a drain that slopes out to the street.

My Questions:
Directions state that I must have 4" of concrete under the drain and 4" on each side (if cars drive over drain - that's a yes). Should I be adding rebar to this concrete? It's a small section but want to do this correctly.

My driveway is asphalt. Can use my existing concrete saw blade to cut this or is there a special blade for asphalt?

One side of the new concrete will be the cement garage, the other side will be the existing asphalt driveway. What is the best way for framing this newly poured concrete or would you just use the existing edges of the garage/driveway? Since I don't want to create a gap between new concrete and existing (by pulling framing boards out), I was thinking of using something very thin, like galvanized flashing or something.

I'm seeking advice, especially on the last item. I can do pretty much anything but seem to learn a lot from guys that have already done this.

Thanks, in advance...

I'll take a crack at this:

- I'd say no... probably overkill. You could probably get away with that wire mesh, but I'm sure other folks will tell you otherwise.

- pretty sure you need a different blade for asphalt... I did. Nail some 2x4 into the asphalt to act as a guide for the saw. That way you'll get a straight cut.

- Just use the existing edges.

Agreed on the rebar. I meant some kind of wire mesh.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy (Post 9805613)

Fix the low spot in floor? Top'n Bond Concrete Patcher | Sakrete

As a general rule, there is no such thing as too much rebar, only not enough.

Use half-inch rebar, not mesh. I'd probably go 6 inches wide on the concrete on the sides of the channel. You may be able to use your existing blade, depending on how thick and how old the asphalt is. I would try it first, before I'd go buy another blade. You definitely want to make sure that you saw in a straight line. You may or may not want to use expansion joints between the existing and the new, it somewhat depends on what kind of shape they are in. You might also give some thought to how your property is graded, most houses are put onto lots that are not properly graded so that you have positive drainage away from the house all the way around it.

If you can't fix low spot in slab, my comments are below in red:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy (Post 9805613)

My garage has sagged over it's 70 year life and water tends to pool up in the front left corner. Water will stay out of the garage until I open the door and then I will have a 1" puddle in the corner about 24-36" diameter. To combat this, I added a garage door threshold that has a 1" bump and this helps a lot.

To really help with this problem, I am going to add a 4" channel drain along the entire front of the garage area of my house. The water will then be routed to a planter bed that has a drain that slopes out to the street.

My Questions:
Directions state that I must have 4" of concrete under the drain and 4" on each side (if cars drive over drain - that's a yes). Should I be adding rebar to this concrete? I would, rebar is cheap It's a small section but want to do this correctly.

My driveway is asphalt. Can use my existing concrete saw blade to cut this or is there a special blade for asphalt? Diamond blade should work fine.

One side of the new concrete will be the cement garage, the other side will be the existing asphalt driveway. What is the best way for framing this newly poured concrete or would you just use the existing edges of the garage/driveway? Since I don't want to create a gap between new concrete and existing (by pulling framing boards out), I was thinking of using something very thin, like galvanized flashing or something. I would pin the new concrete to the old with some short rebar drilled in. On the asphalt side use an expansion joint https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oldcastle-4-in-x-5-ft-Expansion-Joint-65470081/301890380

I'm seeking advice, especially on the last item. I can do pretty much anything but seem to learn a lot from guys that have already done this.

Thanks, in advance...

My garage does the same thing, because the garage has settled. About 8 ft out the driveway cracked and kinda followed the settling so the drive slopes from 8ft out gradually to the garage which is now level with edge of the driveway. To fix mine I plan to just redo the concrete drive so it slopes properly away from the two car garage. Will cost about the same as trying to put in a french drain anyway.

use concrete with fiber in it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by T77911S (Post 9806254)

use concrete with fiber in it.

Always a good idea for small sections, especially when you're buying a minimum quantity of concrete anyway. It doesn't finish as nicely for a highly finished surface but you don't want that in a driveway, anyway. It's known as fiber mesh, to most concrete companies.

Lots of good ideas - Thanks!

If I were smarter, I would have leveled the garage before I epoxy'd the floor. Well, it is what it is and I will continue with the channel drain. I'm fortunate to have a drain nearby that I can tap into. I'm not sure if I can finish this by Thanksgiving weekend but I'm going to try; fortunately, it's not at my house this year :)