Universal O2 Sensors?
 

Are they truly universal? The outputs are all the same I think, are the heater circuit current draws all the same? The heater circuit is controlled by the ECU, I don'w want to draw more current then the OEM sensor.

There are two on my car, it's close to $200 for my VW, and the cheap universal four wire sensors are about $20 on Amazon...

I can do some soldering or crimping at that price.

Like bulbs for DLP TV's and projectors, there are maybe a half dozen bulbs, it's the cages that are all manufacturer specific but it's not the cage that fails.

So if you have a Phillips head and an extra 30 seconds you just swap a new bulb into the cage for 1/3rd the cost of a bulb pre-installed in a cage.

You got a P0420? What's your code? Yammering about O2 sensors. Downstream sensor is a common blowout. Minor exhaust leak upstream.

What's your condition?

From recent experience I would have to say not all the same, recently installed two new Bosch on my 2011 chevy 2500hd and truck did not run properly, placed in two new NTK and runs great. I think that the heater circuit is the problem. Bosch told me to go get the heater settings set to learn in the ECU, that would cost me more then picking up proper parts. Will avoid Bosch parts from now on.

There is a "pacific" code for this. Get your ask down to the parts store and have them read it or get your ask your own $50 Actron reader.

volvo redblocks use ford 5.0 O2 if you cut off and swap the plug end [requires a solder iron/gun]
price was less the 1/2 for the ford unit vs the volvo part both bosch parts

Don't solder them. It specifically says that in the instructions for the Bosch made universals. They come with their own special connector systems that do not involve solder.

This is true. The Bosch (probably all) O2 sensors require a source of reference oxygen to compare against. The Bosch ones are designed to take this in through the wire lead, but soldering will block this.

I have a very very odd condition. Jetta 1.8T, the ground in the O2 sensor can draw too much current and ruin the ECU. I am on my second ECU, the O2 heater circuit trace burned off the first one.

When the O2 circuit screws up the drive by wire circuit also fails (they share the ground circuit) and then the car is in limp mode...it is totally annoying. The car runs and drives great until the electronics fail.

And a new ECU has to be programmed for immobilizer, but if the O2 sensor isn't right it kills the ECU.

I am on the fence about dumping more money into this car.

I found that my Camry was prematurely exhausting my downstream 02 sensor. I yanked it out, cleaned it up, put a non fowler on, and it hasn't been a problem since!

Soldering these days is a no - no. There's no real lead in it today because of the mercury content. Introducing solder to any connection will increase the resistance across it. Now if you're driving a 1950 DeSoto with the original 6 volt system and want to repair a wire or replace a terminal, go ahead and solder - it's fine.

But dealing with micro voltages = Do Not! If you have to splice a connector or terminal in, use a high quality one from someone like Wurth with heat shrink on each end. The Engine management system is looking for a response from various sensors within a certain window and time frame.