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from what i've seen of you on other portions of this website, while i have the knowledge you need, i can't find it in myself to help you
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I'm glad you chimed in, though. I'd have never known you exist, otherwise. :cool: |
It's out of the car and there on the bench? I would rather solder in new wire than try to wrap all that in tape.
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When your wiring starts snapping the coating when bent, it's time to replace the offending wires with new. I have seen situations where only the end 6"-12" of the plastic insulation has become brittle (and breaks easily), and can either be cut back, or splice in a new wire, or replace all the way from the connector.
I wouldn't try to fix the wires in the picture because the coating will crack in in another place. |
I've never been able to solder worth a damn. Maybe it's time to up my game. They would need to be tiny solders @ the triple plug in order to not have the wires short on each other.
I was planning on replacing all of the insulation on the copper wires, not just in spots. I'm going to examine the patient some more tomorrow. Thanks all! :) Well, most all. ;) |
I used clear heat shrink tube on my wife's W140.
The clear allowed the non-degraded color-coded sections of the wire bundle to be preserved. The downside is that HeatShrink is less flexible. But what do I know, you just called me an imbecile in PARF because you thought I had some thing wrong (but it was you who was wrong.) Nice guy eddie, eh? |
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You can use this to dip or paint on the wires but looking at them you should make a new loom with new wire. The resistance built up in the corroded old wires might not make whatever they connect to operate correctly.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1514471310.jpg |
I thought Lucas had a patent on biodegradable wire insulation?
Maybe it expired in the late 40's? Bill K |
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