Vintage hand tool restoration

[drcoastline]

I searched before creating this thread because I thought I saw another thread about in the past, but I couldn't locate it. I apologize if I created a thread already in existence.

Any way, I have a thing for vintage tools. Well most things from what I feel was a better time. I have an assortment of old tools, planes, chisels, hammers, squares, Yankee screw drivers, etc. I hit local yard sales, flea markets etc. I restore them as I need them.

I paid $5.00 for this plane.


$3.00 for this cool adjustable Stanley No. 82 scraper








These will get used tomorrow to plane and scrape the new mahogany counter I'm building in my office.

[rwest]

Nice clean up job, sometimes I wonder if I enjoy fixing up old tools more than getting to use them.

[bt1211]

What's the procedures to get the tools back to useable condition?

[daepp]

Beautiful!

(But don't let it take you away from your boat!)

JK

[LWJ]

We share similar passions. I have a hand plane hoarding problem. Love the scraper!

[Don Ro]

Originally Posted by rwest

Nice clean up job, sometimes I wonder if I enjoy fixing up old tools more than getting to use them.

Same here...I can't pass them up when I see them at garage sales or thrift stores.
I sometimes leave them as is...patina, etc.
But I'll recondition them and then place them around for visual interest...but rarely use them.

[MBAtarga]

You can send me as many of those working $5 planes as you can find!

[Fast Freddy 944]

Nice!

[devodave]

Beautiful work! It looks like a #3, but can't tell if it is a Bailey or a Bedrock. Either way, it should be a pleasure to use. Great score at $5!

[techman1]

Love the hand tools, old style woodworking?
You must visit Paul Sellers on youtube.
Reconditioning tools !
And his series on building a workbench!!!!

[drcoastline]

Thanks Guys,

Sorry for the delay I was on another thread trying to help afterburn with an issue.
Dave, Don't worry the boat is chugging along. I posted some updates a few days ago. The scraper for sure will get used on the boat. I think I posted, someone painted over much of the interior wood work. Rather than use heat guns or chemicals which could damage the wood or cause the paint to get in the grain we will try and use scrapers to remove the paint. Fortunately there are several good coats of varnish so all the paint is sitting right on top. It's just going to be a slow arduous process to remove. Probably part of next winters project.

MBtarga/devodave- The only marking is Made in America. So no idea of the manufacturer. Probably why it was only $5.00 It is the same size as my #3 Stanley.

techman1- I love Paul Sellers videos. Very informative. I was very hesitant to try and sharpen my chisels until I watched his video and a few others.

bt1211- It really isn't that hard. A bit time consuming but very satisfying in my opinion, like mowing the lawn or vacuuming the carpet. You can see the transformation happen right in front of your eyes.

First of course is to disassemble, wash and degrease the parts. No need to de-rust that will happen. After cleaning reassemble the plane.

The process is very similar to sanding wood, leveling body panels in prep for paint, etc.

You will need something very flat and about one and a half lengths of the plane. I use a piece of one inch thick granite sink cut out. I use sand paper starting at about 120 and work up. Usually finishing at around 400 to clean and true the foot of the plane. Place the sand paper on your flat surface and push back and forth until you get flat and true surfaces all the way around and around the mouth. The rust will clean off and highlight the low spots. As you work up in grit the surface will polish also highlighting low spots. You can also mark the surface with a sharpie similar to a guide coat. The photo below is the foot of the plane. As you can see there is still a hollow in the middle with 120 scratches. These are fine. There is still a small low spot at the toe and at the top (right) these could stand to be polished more but they are fine for what I will be using it for. Do this same process on the sides. It is important to have the plane assembled when leveling the foot if you do it in assembled you run the risk of warping the foot when assembled and the foot is no long level. Once this is finished you can disassemble. wax or oil the plane body. The steel or blade gets trued in the same manner. I generally start at 400 wet, lay the steel bevel side up. and push back and forth. You are looking for the same flattening at the cutting edge. You want the steel flat from the edge to about a quarter inch back. I generally work up to 800-1000 to get a nice polish. Flip the steel over and do the same to the bevel edge. I use a bevel gauge for accuracy. The cap iron should have the leading edge squared using the same process so it lays tight against the steel. It's also a good idea to flatten the bottom of the from so it lays flat against the plane body. Everything else I clean up with a brass brush, 3M pads, maybe a little compound. Wax or oil everything.

Whew, watch Paul sellers YouTube videos.

[drcoastline]

Oops, I guess you want the photo?

[charlesbahn]

Learned from a watchmaker to use naval jelly and fine steel wool to restore old micro lathes. Then rinse and coat with Starett oil. Works great to restore old (unpainted) tools as well. I've amassed a collection of saws, planes, chisels, brace and bits, drawblades, etc that looked ready for the scrap heap but now look and work like new.

Once you start, it's hard to stop. You look at an old junky looking tool and know what lies beneath.

Charles

[Zeke]

So, sis you paint the black or is that the original Japan finish?

[Charles Freeborn]

Nice! I built my collection in the mid 80's when I was in upstate NY.

The Bedrock planes are the ones to look for. Easy to spot with their squared off shoulders
The number on a B'rock begins with 6. So this is a #8


The real prize in my collection is this # 51 shooting plane and board.




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[drcoastline]

Charlesbahn- I haven't used navel jelly since I was a kid. I use 3m pads in lieu os steel wool. I like Marvel Mystery oil myself. I will sometime use Penetrol as well. I mostly use the Penetrol on the painted parts and Marvel on the bare metal. You're right it is hard to pass by an old tool knowing what it was and can be again. I have the problem with a lot of things. Post pics of your collection.

Zeke- Hi Milt thanks for stopping by, The black on both tools is original. The plane was cleaned and then waxed with Minwax paste wax. The scraper was cleaned and then wiped down with Penetrol. Milt, you must have a nice plane collection with all the cool work you do?

Charles Freeborn- That is a fine collection and that shooting plane is fine. One day maybe I will come across one.

[RKDinOKC]

Those look pretty plain.

[Charles Freeborn]

The shooting planes are pretty hard to come by, especially with the matching board. If you do spot one for less than a grand that's clean, grab it.


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[wdfifteen]

Very cool OP. THose are beautiful pieces!

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by Charles Freeborn

The shooting planes are pretty hard to come by, especially with the matching board. If you do spot one for less than a grand that's clean, grab it.

For $1k, I'd buy a Veritas, build my own sled platform, and spend the remaining $650 on two or three more of their planes.