Model builders - I need ideas.
 

This evening, I'm cleaning and dusting off some of my models.

Because I'm a clumsy doofus, I accidentally snapped off a piece of the windscreen wiper on the Vic Elford 917. I want to fix this, and I have a couple ideas, but I wouldn't mind hearing other thoughts. The broken part is about as thick as a straightpin, the plastic seems to have sort of a rubbery quality to it, and it feels like I get one shot at making this right, or it's just going to look worse.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515977851.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515977851.jpg

And while I'm asking the brain trust, here's a second issue I have with another car. The C9 Merc is a VERY highly detailed scale model, and maybe I'm too indelicate and ham fisted to own a model with this level of detail... I've lost the valve stem from the right rear wheel. It is TINY, maybe 3/16 of an inch tall with a stem diameter of maybe 1/32 or 1/16 and a conical base. I'm just throwing this one out just in case someone could give me an idea of how to replicate that tiny little part...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515977851.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515977851.jpg

Any ideas will be appreciated.

Toothpick for wiper or a pin?

My first concern is that if you superglue it, keeping the cyanoacryate/ fumes away from the windscreen. If the entire wiper assembly cannot be safely removed, I would shim a piece of aluminium foil between the wiper and the window before gluing. I would also secure the broken piece in place before gluing, so you would only be gluing it, not trying to manipulate it when it comes time to bond. I would not drop superglue on it, I would drop the glue (whatever bonding agent it is) on a block of glass or something, and use a pin tip to pick up an even smaller drop to then apply to the wiper.

The rubbery feel scares me. Makes me wonder if crazy glue is best answer.

Those are great ideas, chapo, and Leaky, and I appreciate them. I think the thing I'm overthinking is how will I attach them without having the whole thing look like ass when I'm done. If i trim the broken pieces down to their natural attachment point, I am going to have one shot at making that connection look good, without some big ugly glob.

Ideally, I would like to find a piece of tiny diameter tubing that would slip over the stubs and not increase the diameter so much that it would look outlandish, but I'm not sure that that tubing exists. Im thinking maybe find some thin wire and pull the copper through to leave just the sheath, but how to keep that arrow straight?

Maybe use a single tooth from a womans long toothed comb?
Might have to trim the width a little.

Parts from an eyeglass repair kit for the valve stem?

Open the door and toss both the wiper arm and the valve stem inside the car. Close the door. That's what the Factory Race Team would have done until they were ready to race it again.

Thin cyanoacrylate is NOT your friend here. Maybe mix up a pea sized two part 5 minute epoxy and use the end of a pin or needle only after you've stirred the epoxy for about 3 minutes. Good Luck!

or...incredibly small black heat shrink tubing. It exists in the R/C section of a hobby shop.

Kach, that may just be the kind of thing I'm looking for! Thanks!

I wonder if you could find some heat shrink tubing that size, slide it on and heat the ends.
Very nice models!

Cheers Richard

Richard, now we're talking! That is worth investigating and testing

Do not use super glue!

Any gluing near clear plastic use this.......
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515980850.jpg

If you have a hobby shop near you they will have some 1/32 carbon fiber rod that is very strong and can be cut to replicate valve stems. wiper arms etc.

Thanks for the advice, Rob! I was hoping you might chime in. I'll start looking. (Unfortunately, the wonderful hobby shop near me closed down and became a weed store; much more profit there I have to assume.....)

No hobby shop in town is a pretty common thing these days.

Hobby Lobby or Michaels would carry it.

And here.....

www.micromark.com

No advice, but those models are beautiful!

Only problem with this type of glue is that it has a longer set time unlike super glue. I have a contraption with a small alligator clip on the end to hold tiny objects in place until the glue cures for a few minutes.

Micro Mark sells this also and not too expensive.

Now you have to post pics of what it looks like after you finish! No pressure. Good to know about the clear parts cement. I was saying superglue but I wasn't happy with the idea myself.

Right now I'm doing a total rebuild of a damaged 1/18th EXOTO C9 Mercedes.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515982433.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515982457.jpg

What in the world happened? I think I would cry if that happened to mine! Is it financially realistic to rebuild?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515986358.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515986358.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515986358.JPG

The owner recently moved and the boxes of models were labeled FRAGILE and TOP LOAD ONLY and of course the movers put that box on the floor of the truck and then stacked furniture on top!

The model is worth $700 to $1000 and I'm estimating $400 or so to re-do. I've done a few of these over the years and can do it pretty quickly.
I did hand-built 1/43rd Porsches for EXOTO many many years ago and I'm blown away at the level of detail that they are doing now. CMC though is above and beyond with their Bugatti's!

Leather wrapped steering wheel....real wood dash....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1515990746.jpg