What about this tree pushing up my landscaping wall?
 

So, since you guys are EXPERTS in yard type projects as demonstrated on my shed slab thread, I wanted to ask your recommendation for this situation.

The tree is a 40+ year old fruitless mulberry tree. I don't want to replace it, as it is mature and provides much needed shade in the summer. I guess I could find a young tree that grows fast and gives shade again in 5 years, but by then what roots does it have?

So, for now, I'd like to clean this up. My brilliant idea is to just take out the broken border wall and put some mulch around the tree and be done with it. In the back, I can re-do the brick to even it out.

But I am also wondering if I'd kill the tree if I would cut the two major roots that did this mess? Then put the wall back. Seems like a losing battle.

Suggestions? SmileWavy

G

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517860809.jpg

Remove the brick.
Spread some fill dirt to cover the roots.

^^^ What he said. Add some grass seed to the new dirt. Yes cutting the roots might kill the tree.

Get rid of the brick, it's ruined regardless. It looks like your whole yard, or at least a good portion of it, could use a few inches of topsoil to be healthy. That would cover up the roots, probably for a decent amount of time.

Probably would kill the tree.

Do you have hardpan soil that is making the roots do that, or is it a shallow rooted tree. Never mind, fruitless mulberry, most evil tree ever.

Great suggestions. I like the "fill dirt" idea. What do I buy for that? Dirt or some topsoil? Excuse my ignorance, I am NOT a gardener.

There isn't much left in terms of lawn after 3 years of severe drought / water restrictions. I keep it somewhere between dead and alive. Don't care too much either. If I rent it out, it will not get any prettier and if I sell, the yard will get a layer of sod.

G

If it were mine I would pull the brick, and add soil to the level already there, underplant with some thing zone appropriate.
Out of curiosity how do you prune that tree?
Do you do the pollard thing, cutting the lateral branches back to the main trunk?

I didn't know it was called pollard method, but yes, that's exactly what I do. The trees were pruned that way when I moved into the house 15 years ago, so I kept it up. I hear that you can prune / grow these trees differently, but too late now with the big knobs on it. It is a very decorative look freshly pruned.

Pruning is a PITA and I like a lot of shade so I have averaged 2-3 years between pruning it back. Most people in my neighborhood do it yearly. I do it with a chainsaw, so quick work cutting it off but some time to dispose of it in the green bin over a few weeks. :)

Not my tree but one similar. My trees are nice and straight and the knobs are nicely spaced / round.

G

http://garangwyn.files.wordpress.com...4/p1000526.jpg

There is a landscape supply place close by, get a few yards delivered or dumped in your pickup. Grunt work but nothing to it, just get it dumped as close to the work as possible. Get screened topsoil, a mix of topsoil/compost or something similar.

I was talking with my horticulture prof. last semester and she claimed that using that method resulted in a shallow rooted tree. Apparently the tree reacts as if it has been in a fire, and uses the energy that would have gone to enlarging the root system into regrowing the canopy. It also reabsorbs the root system.
Is the portion of the trunk closest to the ground solid? It looks to be a different color.

Planting bamboo all around it would quickly cover up those roots ;)

Fruitless mulberry trees always have shallow roots, no matter what. Fast grower and provides a lot of shade, but about the messiest, most allergic reaction inducing tree out there.

Before you do anything, you may be able to defray some of the cost of switching to xeriscape from your county or local water provider. They do that here, and this town is built at the confluence of two rivers that never run dry. They will want pictures of what you are switching from, even if it is all dead.

Interesting - I only cut it every few years, maybe that makes it worse, but those roots were already up on top 15 years ago. I think topping up the soil will really help, the whole yard may benefit from it.

The tree, I will test its health on the bottom oft he trunk. I have a guess though - that's the favorite spot for my old dog in the yard. I am sure she rubs against it - and when we have company, she sometimes gets tied up on it.

Again, great help from the board. I don't think there are a lot of questions you guys can't answer or help with!

G

Not much sense in doing much landscaping with two hunting dogs and kids tearing up the yard on a regular basis. Any ground cover will not survive between the heat and physical abuse.

Thanks,

G

Not sure why the bricks have to be removed.

Looks like you just need to bring in some fill to get your grade back up all along that lower section. You can see the exposed footer - that needs to be covered back up.

While you're at it - cover those surface roots as well to achieve a nice even surface grade.

Then some new sod on top of your fill.

Your local materials supplier (mulch, gravel, rock, soil, etc.) should have a sand product called "red sand' to use as fill. It will allow very good drainage and air to permeate so there will be no harm in covering those roots.

Looks like you could also use some mulch in your beds and in the tree circle planter as well afterwards to dress things up. I like Pine Bark myself but you may not have that type of mulch in your area. Any kind of wood chips that you find attractive would help.

What Baz said...

Why? What? Like he's an expert or something? Whatever! ;)

:D

As others have said, backyard needs 2 inches of top spoil. Remove brick/slab around tree.

Cutting roots = dead tree.

If you go from grass to mulch with a few low water plants, they will cuts you a check, or they will here anyway.

If you don't prune those trees like you have been doing, they get too spread out and the trunk splits. They have very shallow roots no matter how you prune them. If that tree is in a bad spot, you can get another one, they grow super fast. That is why the local electric utility gives them away for free.

I'm not seeing that as an ideal location for a trampoline if you know what I'm saying.

If you don't, if you type *trampoline accidents* into the YouTube search box, it might prove informative.