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The only thing I would add is: Make sure you know your slab construction.
For instance, if it's a post-tension slab you don't want to be doing ANY cutting/drilling unless you 100% know the cable layout. If it's PT and you don't have the cable run layout, you can have it x-ray'd to locate them. |
Update on inserts progress:
I bought a new hammer drill, mainly because the one I was borrowing wasn't that great (Habor Freight), and the new one (a Ryobi) is pretty good, at least relative to the Harbor Freight one. Hammering action is better and I didn't have to lean on it as much to get it to drill at a reasonable rate. I also took the advice to drive straight through the cement pad. Now I know that the pad is 6-7" thick. With these two changes, the remaining inserts installed as I would expect. I hammered the inserts in with less force and they engaged with the cement at about 1 to 1.5" of the thread head was exposed. They look right and the vertical lift supports are rock solid (haven't put the horizontal cross member on yet which should stiffen things up even more). The initial 4 inserts (two per side) are a bit of a quandary. Two of them, I would consider good based on them tighten up with about 1.5" of exposed thread. The other two have about 2.5" of exposed thread before they finally tightened up. Luckily, its one on each side of the lift. I stopped by a friend's professional shop which has a old Bendpak that's been there for 10+ years. The insert thread height varied. Most where around 1.5" but a couple had 2" exposure. The lift has seen lots of cars and obviously held up fine. So, I believe I'm all set. Thanks everybody for your comments! Peter |
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Lastly, for slabs not prepared for a lift with thicker sections under the posts, I would love to see a 3/4" toggle bolt that would turn itself in the dirt or base below the slab and clamp the post flange to the concrete. |
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