16 x 40 second story deck done with Timbertech I think it was, metal railings and lighting around 30k.

This is the best treatment I've found for outdoor application after trying three or four different brands. Not cheap but worth it. Here in CA they had to go to water based, which I haven't tried, but if I had my choice I'd try to get the oil based (from AZ or somewhere similar).

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Slightly off-topic but I have a couple questions for the deck builders:

My 20 year-old 20' X15', south-facing, full sun, pressure-treated, screwed down deck planking is deteriorating due to UV exposure. The deck is ina harsh, hot and sunny location.

1) What is the best method for removal of the planking (the joists are solid)?

2) Should I consider some kind of composite decking, if so, what kind?

^^^^ Enjoy your sammich and let her figure it out ;)

I have rebuilt my deck several times (replaced planking) so take a look at the CAMO ATTACHMENT SYSTEM. They sell the tool and screws at Home Depot and Lowes and online. Rather then using the standard deck screws that will rust over time, the CAMO tool lets you secure the planks by simply clamping onto the width of the board, centered over a support beam and inset the screws at an angle so you cannot see the screws. Its a fantastic innovation that provides the attachments of the planks but you do not see the screws!

look up CAMO TOOL......................well worth the money!!!!!!!

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The CAMO tool spacers come in two sizes that allows you to have a minimal distance between boards or a wider one. The screws come with a bit and the installation is very simple, clean and the screws out of sight providing for a cleaner, smoother look.

I looked into using the Camo tool. I was afraid of deck boards splitting. Depends on what your decking is I suppose.

Ha!

That camo tool doesn't look to be a very impressive plank removing gizmo.

Every deck I've ever watched being built out of treated lumber while I ate sandwiches did not need spacing between the boards. She just butts 'em up against each other and as they dry out voila a space appears.

Crobob. Any chance of unscrewing the planks and turning them over after a refinish? I did that to a deck a few times over the years. Sanded them down with a belt sander ,applied stain/preservative, and screwed them back down through the same screw holes.

1) unscrew and take a look

2) Typical composite decking is not good in hot sun. It warps and sags, even with joists 16" OC.

I used VG Cedar (2x3). It needs cleaning and oil every year or 2 (tree debris and NW moss and mold) but has held up well for a couple decades.

I would feel nervous about sanding treated wood. I mean, it's a big enough PITA to sand, but then the aerosolizing of those nasty preservatives.

No, the CAMO tool does not remove planks, but, if you have had the experience of replacing planks (10 ft + treated lumber) you will find over time that those deck screws will rust. Using a pry bar to remove planks is the best way to go if you cannot release or back out the screws.

The CAMO tool, uses a narrower screw with a narrow head that does not split the wood as it secures the wood on the side of the plank. The overall look is cleaner and the screw holes are small and not noticeable.

I rebuilt my front porch and replaced over 75 planks (10 feet and 12 feet) on my decks with the CAMO tool and I am impressed!!

thanks, I was curious too. adding it to my project list

A chainsaw removes planks really well.

I am currently using the Camo tool on my deck. Using it with Brazilian hardwood, I'd give it a 7 out of 10. It does split boards but predrilling does help, the annoying part is the screws are supposed to do that but doesn't do a great job at it.

Technically you can remove the screws to replace a single board, but trending a couple screws has shown to be tough and can destroy boards.

Way better look and faster than face screwing, IMO, but not without it's flaws

Finally done - finished the last bit of the path on Sunday.

Expense breakdown:

• Prep, including having the old patio removed, french drains, etc: $2100
• Framing, including piers, joists, hardware, drainage gravel,etc: $2300
• Decking: Grade "B" redwood & screws: $2800
• Finishing, including stain, repairing damaged sprinkler lines, electrical, new path edging, pavers & rock, etc: $2400

Soup to nuts, everything came in a little under $10k

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Tell your wife that the contractor WOULD mark up all the materials at least 15 %, and charge labor on top of that..

Yeah, somehow she still thinks it would be cheaper to have had a contractor do it "because they get a discount" - as if said discount would be passed down to us.

Ha! My deck has cost me about $8k including the upgraded Tigerwood. The cheapest quote I got, of the three, was $22,000 with pine. 90% of the quotes are labor, so no amount of discount on the materials can make that up.