Self etching primer confusion.
 

I sand blasted my struts down to bare metal due to some rust pitting and general wear and tear. Since there was previous rust I used SEM self etching primer. After searching I'm more confused about my next steps leading up to paint.
I think my next step should be urethane primer or should I blast again and go epoxy primer. Any thoughts. Thanks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1546716771.JPG

Are you building a show car or something to drive? Scuff them down with a scotch pad and paint them with a quality enamel out of a spray can. Or, you can use the urethane primer, scuff and paint... however, on a strut there is really no need to go through all this... the factory didn't.

Thanks. No show car just a driver. I read so many contradicting opinions on what you can put over self etching primer I wanted to check what is combatible (lacquer, enamel, epoxy etc,etc) first. The SEM can says no top coat over it however some say they have never had a problem.

Spray paint is for lawn furniture, if you want it to last powder coat or use a paint with hardener.

These were new shocks and struts. Sandblasted, epoxy, urethane sealer, satin black, satin clear

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1547354647.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1547354647.jpg

Jim your parts look awesome. I will go that route.

Damn Jim, you never cease to amaze.

First you blast, then you send it away for plating (gold/silver if visible, black only for extra rust protection under paint), then powder coat or epoxy. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1547731951.jpg

Another route is to paint it with a high temp paint and then clearcoat.

a high temp paint on a none high temp part and the paint will not cure and not hold up .
most high temp paint will not sure until 500 degrees. it will dry but all paints need to cure. even painting a motor with some high temp paints is not a good idea as your motor shouldn't see temps as high as 500 degrees.

a good way to go is to use SEM rust-shield. if you want a match for the OE gloss and texture of things like suspension parts you get the flat black then the sem hardener for the rust shield. mix it 8 parts to one part hardener. this is a DTM product so no priming and sanding is needed.
it has rust protection right in the product so it offers that benefit also along with good hold up against chipping because it's a two part product with a hardener.
being you only need two coats you have less open wet paint to the air to get dust in what your painting.