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75 911s's Avatar
 
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Help fitting aluminum / fiberglass duck

Hey guys, I picked up a "used" aluminum based ducktail with fiberglass top. Someone started body work on it and it has some extra shaping and layering around the edges, presumably to fit the car it was going to go on.

At first I thought it was an AASE tail, but maybe it's a base that was purchased and then the glass duck added. Not sure.



I did an initial fit and it fits OK but it has one glaring issue. The plunger support bracket appears to be too low and it also looks like it may have been moved downward.

It no longer has the correct angle for the plunger, nor is it at the right distance. Even adjusting the plunger to it's lowest setting (that it will still catch in the receiver) and the entire lid sits about 3/4 of an inch proud.



I got to looking closely at the inner bracket that the plunger mounts to and it appears it may have been moved. There is lighter paint around where the bracket is glassed into the bottom.

Really the only way I can figure to get it fit right is to re-glass the bracket back to what I think was the original position. This will fix both the angle of the plunger as well as the depth (I believe)



My questions are:

1. Am I missing something in regard to the fit? This is clearly a replica early RS aluminum base duck with light cutouts for the license plate lights. There's nothing different in the latching position on a 73 vs a 74 is there? It doesn't sit on the rubber lip of my impact bumper (I read that sometimes this rubber lip can interfere with some ducks) It aligns on the rubber stops and is flush with the fenders (but then there is not enough room for the plunger/plate.

2. I'm afraid no one is going to know wtf I'm talking about locally. This is why i'm considering moving the bracket myself, though my glass experience is non-existent. So what is the best way to remove the fiber around the plate with minimal disturbance to the outer skin?

The bottom of the bracket is pop riveted to the aluminum frame. It should pivot enough to reglass it in without bending the area it's riveted to.

Hard to tell, but it looks like someone reglassed the bracket in at some point, but I can't be sure. The paint doesn't match exactly and it looks like work was done, but the whole thing is sorta rough if you will. If anyone bought a new AASE duck, I would be curious to know the state it arrived. But like I said, this one clearly had begun the body work phase. It has filler added to the edges and shaping had begun.



Please advise!
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Last edited by 75 911s; 03-13-2019 at 09:17 PM..
Old 03-13-2019, 09:15 PM
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Well my plan is to feather out the existing glass around the aluminum with a 2" pad and 36 grit on a 1/4" angle air grinder. Then use a sharp metal scraper and a hammer behind the brace to carefully separate the aluminum from the inner duck. All those opposed say nay.
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:05 AM
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i'm wondering why your not just removing the bracket the the striker bolts to and either make a new one the proper shape or modify the one that is there to work. it's only got a few pop rivets and molded into the engine lid with some fiberglass.

once you make a new bracket or modify the one there just re fiberglass it back in and pop rivet back to the aluminum framing.
Old 03-15-2019, 08:27 AM
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I think you are headed the right direction. Whether it's pre or post 73 won't matter on fitment.
One thing I might suggest is to also drill the rivets out and remove the bracket completely and reshape it on the rivet end.
Otherwise, I think it might distort the frame when you move it down 3/4".
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Old 03-19-2019, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
i'm wondering why your not just removing the bracket the the striker bolts to and either make a new one the proper shape or modify the one that is there to work. it's only got a few pop rivets and molded into the engine lid with some fiberglass.

once you make a new bracket or modify the one there just re fiberglass it back in and pop rivet back to the aluminum framing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by group911@aol.co View Post
I think you are headed the right direction. Whether it's pre or post 73 won't matter on fitment.
One thing I might suggest is to also drill the rivets out and remove the bracket completely and reshape it on the rivet end.
Otherwise, I think it might distort the frame when you move it down 3/4".
Thanks guys. Drilling out the rivets and removing the bracket is the best plan. Though it looks like it might rotate a bit I think I'll need it out to re-shape it properly and get the fit right for the latch. Appreciate the help.
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Old 03-20-2019, 04:32 AM
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if you find the bracket is to short to reach the aluminum framing you may need to get another little piece of aluminum and add to it then rivet the add on piece to the existing bracket and framing.
Old 03-20-2019, 04:59 AM
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