Help! Advice Needed on Horrible, Old Respray

[Jengah]

Hello -

NOOB here. I'm looking at a Guards Red 944 that had a cheap respray about 10 years ago that sat in the desert sun for years. It's now faded, peeling and flaking. I'd like to reapaint, but don't want or need to pay for a $10K+ job. I like some level of DIY, and love participating in the process, eve if it's just research.

What are some of the ways I could tackle this mess? Is the best path to media blast it down to metal and then go from there? Or is there a way to remove the crappy paint down to original paint or primer and then go from there?

Here are some photos - sorry they aren't the right side up, not sure why they rotated.

[bpu699]

That’s a $4000 car, maybe. You don’t want to spend a lot on paint.

Go to the website dipyourcar.com. Spent $400 on a flat colored rubber coating. Sand it, paint. Should last 2-3 years.

Might also be a good candidate for painting with rustoleum, go on YouTube.

Anything else will be spending money better spent buying a nicer car...

[samurai_k]

Maybe if the respray is peeling that bad is you could use a soft credit card to scrape it off? And then use a polisher to clean up the original factory paint?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[962porsche]

this is the some old story of repainting will cost more then the car is worth when it's finished.
so what you get is someone that had there car repainted for cheap and got a cheap job. the down side is that the repaint only lasted a few years and now it's going to be total hell to fix.
your looking a pretty much needing to strip the cars finish off. you could start by using a DA sander and some 80 grit paper. you may not need to go down to bare metal but it least remove the last repaint.

[scottrx7tt]

It would be a good candidate for a paint job from MAACO. They have a base/clear paint job for like $2500. I had a white 944 turbo done there years ago and it turned out pretty nicely

[962porsche]

Originally Posted by scottrx7tt

It would be a good candidate for a paint job from MAACO. They have a base/clear paint job for like $2500. I had a white 944 turbo done there years ago and it turned out pretty nicely

sadly this is the type of paint work you get from Macco crap sanding job and they paint right over things like the vinyl overlays.

[Cairo94507]

I say remove all the trim and seals you can. Pull the bumpers, door handles, locks, emblems, etc. Get a DA and sand the paint down to the original color. Then take it to one of the less expensive paint shops mentioned and let them spray it for you. I would not change colors as that just complicates the process. I have painted several cars and it is not rocket science as long as you are patient and take the time to properly prepare. Good luck

[strath44]

The thing with paint jobs is the prep and the time that involves and time = cost is a shop!

Its good your keen as a few other people have mentioned, stip all the body trim parts off you can and jump on it with a DA or even paint stripper!!

Then start going round with the filler (bondo) and get it nice and flat and dent free.

If you have the space buy a cheap compressor and get the sealer / primer on! Then leave it to a pro to do the colour and clear!

[wayner]

If its peeling that bad, don't get too aggressive.

Just lift it off with a razorblade and assess each section as you go.
If it was painted just because of badly fading paint, then you may have a pretty solid base that would be ashamed to disturb.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by wayner

If its peeling that bad, don't get too aggressive.

Just lift it off with a razorblade and assess each section as you go.
If it was painted just because of badly fading paint, then you may have a pretty solid base that would be ashamed to disturb.

Sometimes that's possible with the razor blade. There are nifty tools at paint jobbers that hold single edge razors at good working angle. You need a light touch and just soapy water in a spray bottle. You will find out quickly if you can do it.

Another thought for preserving the base paint is a light coat of paint stripper on the top coat to lift it. Then use a plastic scraper to knock it off. You will have mistakes, just like with the razor blade. However, you may get away with 220 on your DA sander vs 80 grit before starting to build back up.

Here's a 951 Porsche962 helped me through on this forum about 12 years ago. I just stripped it. It had been painted at least twice before.



I used 80 grit on this nose so it's not as rough as you may imagine.



This is the panel when stripping, my helping sister said "something is strange over here" as it was loaded with mud.



Finished. Sikkens top and clear which 962 had a mild heart attack over. Dentist owner had a patient who was a Sikkens rep, so.....



Note favorable color "pop" difference of my 81 911 I painted with Glasurit 22 Line.



It's real work to do a decent job.

[wayner]

Nice!

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by wayner

Nice!

I ain't got too many of these projects left in me.

[962porsche]

so I have this Baja bug build I'm working on for a customer.
it too has a very bad repaint on it.
being there is always more then one way to skin a cat. I tried a few things 1st.
1st pic is of the paint as I got the car.
2nd pic razor blade and tried scrapping off the paint the blade just digs in to easy. not a good option for this.
3rd pic masking tape and sticking to the paint and pealing it off. yes it works good and only takes the repaint off. down side is I will need 3 to 4 rolls of 2" tape to strip it.
4th pic 80 grit on a DA sander. takes the paint right off with very little effort. down side is it's also taking off the OE finish. the good is that it's not taking off the OE undercoat (sealer) .
I could use a paint stripper but this has down sides. one is it will strip even the good OE scale roff the car. it will take the galvanized layer off also once I sand after the spaint stripping is done. also if there is any body filler under the last repaint I would have to strip that off the car as well as the pint stripper will eat into it.
then there is the cost of the materials I would have to buy to remove the repaint. the cost of stripper, sand paper and metal wash cleaner.
to strip this job I will only need to use one material and that's sand paper. I will not need to use paint stripper and a metal wash saving me some cost and labor.
if I was to find out the OE undercoat was not in good shape I would just use a paint stripper or maybe media blast the body.
if I were to media blast the car I would go with a plastic media as the car is very rust free and I'm only looking to remove the finish.
if it had unseen rust under OE finish I would tend to use a sand as a media. this would remove the finish and rust.

[962porsche]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Sometimes that's possible with the razor blade. There are nifty tools at paint jobbers that hold single edge razors at good working angle. You need a light touch and just soapy water in a spray bottle. You will find out quickly if you can do it.

Another thought for preserving the base paint is a light coat of paint stripper on the top coat to lift it. Then use a plastic scraper to knock it off. You will have mistakes, just like with the razor blade. However, you may get away with 220 on your DA sander vs 80 grit before starting to build back up.

Here's a 951 Porsche962 helped me through on this forum about 12 years ago. I just stripped it. It had been painted at least twice before.



I used 80 grit on this nose so it's not as rough as you may imagine.



This is the panel when stripping, my helping sister said "something is strange over here" as it was loaded with mud.



Finished. Sikkens top and clear which 962 had a mild heart attack over. Dentist owner had a patient who was a Sikkens rep, so.....



Note favorable color "pop" difference of my 81 911 I painted with Glasurit 22 Line.



It's real work to do a decent job.

NO NO I LOVE Sikkens just not there paint. the rep is a friend of mine.