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Guide on how to prep car for paint job

Has anyone come across a good how-to guide for what to remove from a 911 in order to prep it for a paint job? I want to replace all of the rubber seals, so there's a fair amount of disassembly work and I'd like to do it right. Thanks

Old 06-06-2020, 06:33 PM
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most every car we do they get stripped down to a bare shell with all bolt on panels coming off the car.
much depends on how deep your really looking to get into the job and what the job calls for.
in short we remove the hood the fenders the doors and the engine lid then any thing bolts on them comes off too. the doors are taken totally apart to bare door shelf the engine lids vents come off along with the latch and stricker.
Old 06-09-2020, 03:50 AM
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What do you do in the engine compartment? Originally I had planned to not paint it, since I didn't want to mess with the wiring harnesses, fuel lines, etc. Removing the engine and transaxle isn't that daunting to me, but it seems like pulling everything else is and I'm hoping to find a line-in-the-sand where I can get a nice paint without doing a full restoration.
Old 06-09-2020, 07:50 AM
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if your looking to pull the drive line then you have two way to go about protecting the lines and wires the 1st is as you said remove then. the other is to go get some heavy duty aluminum foil like Reynolds wrap. just don't buy the cheap wrap of it will just rip when you wrap it around the lines and wires.
Old 06-09-2020, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
if your looking to pull the drive line then you have two way to go about protecting the lines and wires the 1st is as you said remove then. the other is to go get some heavy duty aluminum foil like Reynolds wrap. just don't buy the cheap wrap of it will just rip when you wrap it around the lines and wires.
Aluminum foil is a great idea. I still have some ancient tape on some engine bay stuff deep in the recesses.

If you want to ditch the sound insulation and paint, the adhesive is hard to get off.

My drive train was out so I ended up buying a gallon of adhesive remover and used a pressure washer. Acetone did not work well and only softened the paint.

Keep the pressure washing to the back wall only. I remember taking the 10 pin connector out between the shock towers.
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Last edited by Bob Kontak; 06-13-2020 at 02:11 PM..
Old 06-13-2020, 02:07 PM
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porsche has some connectors you should be extracting the pins from like door mirrors and such.
to many times we have run across cars with connectors just hacked off and spliced back together.
with extracting the pins from the connectors you can easily just remove the wire harness.

at times to remove the old adhesive for the body your just going to end up stripping the area down to bare metal. I can't even count the number of cars we just went right to stripping the finish off instead of trying to just remove the old adhesive.
Old 06-15-2020, 05:33 AM
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I haven't finished clearing out the engine compartment, but have the engine out, etc. I'll pay attention to the wire connectors.

I also have questions about how best to remove the doors. It looks like pulling the hinge pins is the best way to go, to keep door alignment, etc. I'm hoping to find a tool like this P290

I've also seen this attachment that someone said is good for post '73 cars (mine '76). P290a, but I'm not quite sure how it works. It looks like the pin sits in a dimple of the hinge pin, but I'm not sure how that helps.

Any advice on removing trunk/hood to help retain alignment for re-installation? I noticed washers are used to make the panels flush, etc. I guess just keep note of where and how many washers are used on each bracket bolt?
Old 06-15-2020, 07:45 AM
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I have never had a problem re aligning doors so we never pull the hinge pins we just unbolt them.
the only time we remove the pins is if the hinge needs to be repaired or replaced.
for the hood and engine lids if the gaps are good like you stated just replace the washer shims back to how they were when the panels came off the car. this I the same with the shims used on the doors.
Old 06-16-2020, 03:31 AM
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Thanks for the pointers on shims and door removal.

I found an earlier post from 2014 where you had posted the Glasurit-22 formula for light yellow. The local paint shop sells 55 and 90, but not 22. I can check around in Portland, the nearest city, so maybe I can find it there. I have some questions about Glasurit-22.
1- is 22 as durable at 55 (scratch resistance, fade in sun, etc.)?
2- the local shop tells me they can color match 55 to the 22 formula. Will the differences be noticeable?
3- My painter normally uses cheaper paints for collision repairs, etc. He seems interested in trying nicer paint, but I wonder is there a big learning curve to switching from B/C to SS?
Old 06-16-2020, 07:34 AM
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as I have said countless times in the past there are painters and sprayers.
and a big difference between the two.
a painter can pint anything with out problems a sprayer will not.
if the person is a real painter then they will be able to apply base clear just as good as single stage.
you can mail order single stage 22 line from Paul francis out of new haven CT .
my guess is you will not be using your car as a daily driver seeing all types of weather?
being so you will get a life time out of a 22 line paint job. in fact S/S and B/C will last about as long as each other. the scratch resistance out of both is the same the only difference is when it comes to having to do a painting repair. the single stage is were people today have a real hard time. collision repair people just can't do a blend with S/S.
Old 06-17-2020, 04:29 AM
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The car is not a daily driver, but it will see 4 seasons (mild Oregon weather) and maybe 1000 miles/year.

I'm getting ready to order a rubber seals kit. I've looked at AASE Sales, Sierra Madre, and Stoddard. Is there any advice on how to compare those (or other) options?
Old 06-17-2020, 07:53 AM
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personally I like stoddard my best friends brother work for them. but they also have quality parts.
Old 06-17-2020, 07:57 AM
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What I'm realizing on the paint, based on your comments about painters v. sprayers, is that the best hope for a true color match to original is Glasurit 22. A good painter can match B/C and that would be easiest to repair in the future, but if the person applying the paint isn't as skilled then it will not have the "right" appearance (color match and general old-style look). This isn't a concours type of car and I'll want to mod it a little, so some of those details (right appearance) may not matter as much. But it also sounds like putting SS down might be easier? I guess its a tradeoff.
Old 06-17-2020, 08:29 AM
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if your not doing things like changing the cars body up dating or back dating it adding flares and such then I would go with S/S it would hold more value to the car. bolt on parts like seats motor bits and such can always be changed out to original if ever someone would want to. being that way if the finish is not OE like then it doesn't matter if someone ever did swap back to OE because the cars finish wouldn't be OE like.
Old 06-17-2020, 02:35 PM
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Is it worth it to try and remove the rubbery undercoating? I've pulled the rear bump/valence and rear quarter panels and most of the under coating came off the quarter panels while soaking in simple green, but not everything and it's a bear getting the residual off.

There's also some old adhesive from the firewall insulation in the engine compartment. Any suggestions on best way to remove? I also have to get the old adhesive from the window seals removed. I noticed some very minor pitting on the lower front window seal lip. I guess some sanding will tell how serious it is.

By the way Industrial Finishes in Eugene also mixes series 22, so shorter drive.
Old 06-18-2020, 09:06 AM
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I hate the black rubberized chap they call undercoating. it should never be used on any car it does nothing but make a mess and ruins the car.
to take it off I use industrial cleaner from ZEP then power wash the crap off. let the cleaner sit for about 15 minutes then spray more on and let that sit for another 10 minutes or so.
then power wash. it should remove most of it. after that do the same thing again if your left with some on places. I put the cleaner in a 1.5 gal pump up spryer to spray it.

depending on how much adhesive you have to deal with you could sand it down with 80 on a DA sander or if it's real bad / heavy you can use a 4" grinder with 80 grit flap wheel. either way your will be sanding to bare metal. if your going to install a new pad then just sand it to remove as much as you can then spray your sealer and top coat over it this will lock it down and then install your new pad.

rust on the corners of the front lower windshield area cowl to windshield post?
common. spot sand blast the area to remove every bit of rust. if you have a rot thru then you would need to cut out the rust and weld in a patch.
Old 06-18-2020, 12:50 PM
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Here are a couple of photos from the front windshield lip:
Lower passenger corner


Lower horizontal in front of steering wheel.

image upload
Old 06-19-2020, 02:02 PM
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I have the engine compartment completely empty, except for the rear shock bolts/bushings sticking up above the towers. If possible, I need to move the car on wheels to get it to the paint shop, but I'd like to not get paint on the shock bushings. Any advice on that?
Old 06-28-2020, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cgates30 View Post
I have the engine compartment completely empty, except for the rear shock bolts/bushings sticking up above the towers. If possible, I need to move the car on wheels to get it to the paint shop, but I'd like to not get paint on the shock bushings. Any advice on that?
You can remove the rear shocks and the suspension will still support the car. No problem moving the car. Rob
Old 06-29-2020, 05:40 PM
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Thanks. I'll be pulling the rear shocks this week.

I'm trying to weight the benefits of pulling the front fenders. One the one hand, its much easier to clean/paint the wheel wells, but on the other hand I'm wondering if its worth it. I have to draw a boundary somewhere, but it appears that it shouldn't be that much more work to do. I have all of the bumpers, quarter panels/bellows, side skirts already removed.

The headlight buckets seem pretty solid, but the undercoating is holding them in place. Any suggestions on the easiest nondestructive way to remove them?

Old 06-30-2020, 08:06 PM
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