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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chicago, IL
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New-paint protection for long term
This is about my Fiat, not my Porsche, but this is the best place I know of to get advice from people who really know automotive paint.
I got my Fiat Spider back this spring from a body-and-paint restoration. I never quite had time to get started on the mechanical maintenance this year, so it’s been sitting under a cover in the garage since march, occasionally getting started up and run for a bit. Since reproductions of the original decals are now available (it’s a Turbo), I’m ordering a set and will eventually have those put on. Before that, I’d like to know what I can do to take care of, protect, whatever the paint. Have it rubbed out a bit more? Maybe. Ceramic coating? Are any of these worthwhile? Then decals last.
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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I have used paint protection film on all of my cars since 2005. Never had a problem and it protects the paint from a lot of stuff. Yes, it is a bit expensive, but, in my opinion, well worth it if you value your paint.
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'71 914-6 #0372 '17 Macan GTS |
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You mean the plastic film kind that is applied over the forward-facing surfaces? Or something else over the entire body?
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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Yes; on my 914-6 I have the complete hood wrapped, front fenders, headlights and foglight, door edges, door cups and the exposed fender lips that typically gets rock blasted. You have to really look closely to see it is wrapped and it protects the paint against most debris that hits the car when driving.
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'71 914-6 #0372 '17 Macan GTS |
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Xpel or Suntek are the ones most widely used by ppf installers that I know in the exotic car business
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With refinish paint you do need to make sure that the paint is fully cured before applying the film or it will kill the paint. Same principle as with applying any sort of polymer wax or sealant to a refinish paint job.
Six to nine months depending on how much clear or single stage was used.
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High quality metal, body and paint work http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/are-you-looking-for-a-shop-i-am-available-in-virginia.9030/ |
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I've also seen and heard horror stories of guys covering freshly (sort of) painted stuff with car covers and even body shop type plastic and damaging/destroying the paint. If it's garaged best thing to cover with is a simple flannel type sheet/cover. Never plastic. Never the bulky multilayered covers.
Knew of one Gent who got a 63 split window Vette redone. When he got it back it went into his storage building along with his other cars. He covered it with the thin mil body shop masking plastic to protect it. Six months later when he pulled the plastic off the car was bubbling all over. This was due to the solvents that were still in the paint being trapped. Bottom line your paint needs to be able to breathe. If it can't bad things happen. One reason I'm not a fan of most paint protection film. Only use the film that is marketed as breathable.
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High quality metal, body and paint work http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/are-you-looking-for-a-shop-i-am-available-in-virginia.9030/ |
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I'll just add that myself and other guys I know who do this for a living, really dislike the idea of PPF on refinish paint. It will go on fine. If using breathable film then it will allow the paint to live, the problem arises when trying to remove it. Removing the film can be an issue even on OEM paint. I've seen where removed film pulls off the paint as well as the film. I would think long and hard about applying any film to refinish paint.
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High quality metal, body and paint work http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/are-you-looking-for-a-shop-i-am-available-in-virginia.9030/ |
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Thanks for your comments, Chris. I hadn't visited this subforum in a while and just noticed them. Paint has been done for close to a year now. A bit late on the cover, as it's already had a cover on it for a while, but it does breathe.
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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