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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
Factory Manual Torsion Tube Replacement Procedure

Apparently the factory workshop manual contains a procedure for replacing the torsion tube. I have a 1969 911 that I am working on rounding up parts for and would like to find a copy of this procedure. Would some kind person be willing to scan those few pages and send them my way. It would seem that this procedure would be pretty much the same up through 1986.

As always, any help is GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Old 04-01-2008, 04:37 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
Got it

Thanks for looking
Old 04-01-2008, 04:01 PM
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911rsguy's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: CT.
Posts: 35
torsion tube repair

Hi guys, Am I doing this right? Just looking at Ryan's old thread re: the Tor, tube repair and I too have a ##'s match 69 E that I just bought and need the same info from the P car repair manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I also have a perfect 1978 rear clip w/all the parts - opinions welcomed on cutting and using that as opposed to going with new parts as I need the dog leg sections of the frame too. Thanks for looking. email-
Old 06-15-2009, 09:20 AM
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(Former 1968Cayman)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rutherfordton NC
Posts: 2,388
Here's the general idea; there are many figures with measurements for use on the Celette rig which I can forward to you if you decide to move forward with this. There is a whole seperate section for renewing the rear section of the car but you might want to consider the following before diving into that, such as procuring a jig if you do not already have one.

Here's the tube renewal procedure without graphics or measurements:

1. Strip car for placing on Celette rig.
2. Remove front and occasional seats with backrests.
3. Remove heel board carpet.
4. Partially detach both side member carpets.
5. Roll back side member carpets and side paneling.
6. Remove sound-proofing material completely from heel board and partially from seat moldings and side members.
7. With a chisel open up both seat moldings along the side member starting at the heel board on three sides approx. 15 x 15 cm (5. 9x5. 9").
8. Bend the metal back so that the transverse tube is accessible from above.
9. Remove or mask off any cables and fuel and brake lines that are likely to be damaged.

1. On vehicles whose rear axle transverse tube is welded to the heel board at the moldings, the transverse tube should be cut through here with the cutting or welding torch.
2. Completely cut through the transverse tube outside the bearing supports so that the center section is free and can be detached.
3. With the welding torch cut off the side members around the immediate vicinity of the transverse tube.
4. Cut through the right-hand side member at the rear to a tube thickness of approx. 5 cm (1.9") and bend back. With a flame cutter cut through the transverse tube approx. 10 mm (0.40") inside the outer weld seam.
6. Pull the stumps of the transverse tube backward and forward to loosen the adhesion points between the side members.
7. Knock the stumps out towards the center.
8. Burn off remains of tube and remove.
9. Rectify the plates bent by removal of the transverse tube and grind off any weld beads remaining. On vehicles which have the moldings in the heel board these should be welded too.

1. The new transverse tube should be pushed through into the side member which has been cut open until it can then be pushed into the side member on the other side.
2. Line up any projecting metal pieces with the tube.
3. Place body on Celette rig.
4. Adjust and secure all support points of the body including the rear axle transverse tube on the Celette rig.
5. The transverse tube should be oxyacetylene welded in position where accessible.
6. After the weld spots have cooled release support points.
7. Lift body at the rear until the transverse tube can be completely welded.
8. Bend back metal sections of seat moldings that were cut open, line up and weld.
9. Check tube ends for proudness and if necessary grind off.
10. Check body for truth on Celette rig.
11. Primer the weld points, renew damaged underseal and reassemble the car.
1968 911P (Paperweight)

Last edited by 1968Cayman; 06-15-2009 at 12:04 PM..
Old 06-15-2009, 12:01 PM
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911rsguy's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: CT.
Posts: 35
Hey Scott, Thanks for all the info. I knew this was going to be big, and I thought a jig may be necessary. I have a few shops here in CT that I can get quotes from, and rumors of price/cost of the job run from $4k to $9k if I decide to farm it out. I'll let you know what I decide.
Thanks again,
Old 06-15-2009, 03:02 PM
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