Dupont 1k self etch primer

[calling911]

I used 4115s over bare metal and filler. What can I use as a slight build primer to fill in some small scratches? Also, should I sand off the this primer where I went over the filler? I read after I did this that self etch primer over filler is a no no.

Help.

Also, my gut is I'll be using a PPG paint.

[BReyes]

Yes you can sand off this primer where you went over the filler, but worry about it little dont be distracted by problems here. Sand it as you need to in order complete your preparation for finish primer coats. Sand it with 80 for example then fill pin holes with glazing putty etc and respray over areas you are sanding with a build primer.

Once it is cured you can sand it with 400 wet.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by BReyes

Yes you can sand off this primer where you went over the filler, but worry about it little dont be distracted by problems here. Sand it as you need to in order complete your preparation for finish primer coats. Sand it with 80 for example then fill pin holes with glazing putty etc and respray over areas you are sanding with a build primer.

Once it is cured you can sand it with 400 wet.

Glaze is done.. I just wanted to know if I NEEDED to remove the etch primer from the filler areas.

[BReyes]

Negative.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by BReyes

Negative.

Awesome.. so ANY primer at this point? Or should I stick with the same brand I plan to spray?

[BReyes]

When you say any any to me means any "good" primer. Yes I would continue with any good primer. Just dont use self ethching primer from this point forward. Good means best quart can afford (You know a regular high quality primer surfacer to mix with lacquer thinner at home) today from professional supply store.

Are you sanding with 400 wet yet?

[calling911]

Originally Posted by BReyes

When you say any any to me means any "good" primer. Yes I would continue with any good primer. Just dont use self ethching primer from this point forward. Good means best quart can afford (You know a regular high quality primer surfacer to mix with lacquer thinner at home) today from professional supply store.

Are you sanding with 400 wet yet?

No, just a light coat of etch primer.. Id go right thru it and since this is not a sand blasted but da sanded body I want to leave the etch primer on the bottom. So my plan was to use a mild "build" primer and sand the minor scratches out with that that are in the steel from some yahoo using 20 grit or some damn thing on it. lol..

I think I am sanded down to about 100 grit now. The filler seemed smooth enough at that level to go ahead and prime. Id really hate to wet sand now as its just a real thin thin coat of etch primer.

Im not going to screw around.. I'll just find a paint store and get the whole recipe. Some name brand like PPG or DuPont or ...

Id shoot some pics but youd likely not see any imperfections.

[BReyes]

When you prime it is best to apply 5 coats letting it dry proper time between coats and letting it dry. Then you can start working. You may then do your sanding as you have been doing.

You will repeat this process many times before you are ready for finish primer. The receipe for mixing primer is as thick as you can learn to spray it well. Mix it 1:2 and add more thinner if want to see what happens will have you adding less thinner the next time. Most guys spray it too dry, don't build it up enough. Don't know how to block sand with a paint stick, etc.

You can tell if your work is going well by the most important part as regards to timing. Let your car sit for weeks in primer. The primer is not strong like paint is so all imperfections swell. You let it sit and later do your sanding work again and the more you do this there more certain all the scratches are gone.

Sounds like you are having a great start to a great finish. We know you are not at the wet sanding stage yet you would be complaining about how your finger prints have worn off with so much sanding.

Good luck.

[calling911]

Thanks.. this is about what I was thinking.. thanks for helping me out.. especially if you are a professional.. many pros get angry when people try and do this stuff thereselves.. so I appreciate it.. I simple cannot afford to have a pro do it. It will take twice as much time but that I got.

I looked and I am at 120 grit now.. I just sand blasted the last few parts this afternoon.. the bumpers.. oh and I still have to blast the door jambs.. I will plastic everything nice and tight.. but them I am ready to start priming away.. Im going to try and find a paint shop tomorrow and get the primer.

I do have a primer gun and I have a paint gun so I am good to go.. I've been painting with a primer gun and never knew it until I started researching it. I think the thing about primer is you cant be afraid to lay it on thick because who cares if it runs? You're gonna be blocking it anyway and a run shrinks up so small its easy to get out.. just looks nasty when its wet.. I found this on the net somewhere.. its kinda what I planned to follow except for the epoxy part which I just could not do because of logistics.. I never could have ALL the metal exposed at one time with my little one man operation... I didnt see any copyright info so I hope its ok to post it. have any thoughts on it?

The Perfect Paint Job

April 2008

Our goal is to accomplish a paint job that with a strong foundation, with a maximum gloss that will last for many years. This type of painting is not practical for the everyday production body shop but will serve you well when you do a restoration or a street rod job. We are going with the assumption that the metal, or fiberglass has been stripped of all paint.

Bare metal is always best cleaned with #700-1 waterborne wax and grease remover.

Mix enough #6600 series epoxy to spray two wet coats over the entire car. Spray one wet coat and let flash about 30 minutes, then apply a second wet coat. Let the epoxy set overnight and then apply body, or fiberglass filler and glazing putty over the epoxy. It is not necessary to sand the epoxy before applying the fillers, as they will bite into the epoxy, and feather great. When you have finished sanding all of the bodywork, you are likely to have some bare metal spots from sanding. Spray one wet coat of epoxy over all filler spots and over any bare metal spots. Let the vehicle set overnight.

The next day, you can start spraying the 2K primer over the epoxy. Once again, it is not necessary to scuff or sand the epoxy before applying primer. The most important thing to remember at this point, is spray one wet coat of primer, and let it set for 30 minutes before applying the second coat. Follow this procedure between coats of primer. This step, when abused, messes up more paint finishes than anything else! When all of the primer blocking and any necessary primer repairs have been done, it is always best to use the epoxy as a sealer. Mix up enough epoxy to go around the car with one wet coat, adding a double shot glass of SPI #885 urethane reducer, per quart. Let the epoxy set for 30 minutes. Stir one more time, and strain. Spray one full wet coat of epoxy over the entire car. The epoxy should set for 24 hours, then wet sand as needed, with 600-800 grit paper and then you are ready to base.

Next to rushing the 2K primer, rushing the basecoat is the second cause for the final gloss and depth of a paint job to look bad. It is very important use the slowest urethane reducer in your base that you can get away with, no matter what the outside temperature is. Just allow enough extra time for the basecoat to flash and dry. The difference between a very slow grade and medium grade reducer will show up in the final gloss. The slower grade also has better solvency and will give you far better adhesion. Spray the first coat, and let it totally dry, before spraying the second coat. It is best to wait 45 minutes between coats.

Option if basecoat isn’t perfect:

After two coats, the vehicle should set overnight, then do minor wet sanding with 1500 grit sandpaper to remove any orange peel or trash. Apply the next two coats with 45 minutes of flash time in between. Some colors require additional coats. If this is the case, again, wait 45 minutes between coats. Let the basecoat set overnight.

Tack off the next day, apply a wet coat of SPI-Universal, SPI-MS or SPI-HS Clear, and let the clear flash as needed. Let the first coat of clear set until you can lightly run you finger across it.

Spray the second wet coat of clear, let it flash until stringy, or slightly dry to the touch, then spray the third coat of clear.

From two days to two weeks after the job has been completed, wet sand the clear with 400-800 grit sandpaper, blocking out any orange peel or dirt. After wet sanding, let the car set in sun for a day then apply a wet coat of clear. Let the clear flash until it is dry to a light touch. Apply a second coat of clear, then 20-30 minutes later come back with a third coat of clear.

Let the vehicle set two or three days in the sun to help to get all of the solvents out and settle the paint job. If any wet sanding is required before buffing, sand with 1500 grit sandpaper, then set the vehicle in sun for two to three hours. Bring the car back into the shop, and allow it cool to room temperature, then buff.

If you follow these directions, you will have a durable paint job, with maximum depth and gloss over a solid foundation, which will last for many years to come.

Buffing / Compound Recommendation:

On your first compounding of 1000-2000 wet sanding scratches use PRESTA ULTRA CUTTING CREAM with a white twisted wool compounding pad and remove all of your scratches.

On your second step use PRESTA 1500 POLISH with a yellow twisted wool polishing pad or a foam pad. 2-4 quarter-size drops will do an entire full size pickup hood. With Presta less is better!

On your third step use PRESTA 2000 POLISH with a yellow twisted wool polishing pad or foam pad. 2-4 quarter-size drops will do an entire full size pickup hood. With Presta less is better!

I don’t care how aggressive a “cutting” foam pad is said to be a twisted wool compounding pad will out-cut it every time and use less compound to do it. Wool pads like to cut and foam pads like to polish. Period.

Originally Posted by BReyes

When you prime it is best to apply 5 coats letting it dry proper time between coats and letting it dry. Then you can start working. You may then do your sanding as you have been doing.

You will repeat this process many times before you are ready for finish primer. The receipe for mixing primer is as thick as you can learn to spray it well. Mix it 1:2 and add more thinner if want to see what happens will have you adding less thinner the next time. Most guys spray it too dry, don't build it up enough. Don't know how to block sand with a paint stick, etc.

You can tell if your work is going well by the most important part as regards to timing. Let your car sit for weeks in primer. The primer is not strong like paint is so all imperfections swell. You let it sit and later do your sanding work again and the more you do this there more certain all the scratches are gone.

Sounds like you are having a great start to a great finish. We know you are not at the wet sanding stage yet you would be complaining about how your finger prints have worn off with so much sanding.

Good luck.

[calling911]

I've been researching paint tonight. OVERWHELMING.

gaads.. I dont have a clue.