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Hey body guys can you diagnose this? ? ?
So my SC has some history I'd like to learn a little bit more about.
Can you please help me diagnose what may have happened here, and how I can go about checking to make sure that it is all OK now? Here are the photos: The first two photos are the inside of the rear package area just below the quarter window: The Second set are from inside the rear wheel well looking up. You can see a spattering of some funky stuff maybe bondo? ? ? This is the cavity is right behind and below the back corner of the quarter window. This one is from the rear corner of the engine lid This one is looking from the ground up to the underside of the top corner of the engine lid. (clearly there is no engine in the car) Next we have the bar that runs along side the engine. The big nut on the top there is for the bar that holds the rear fender extension. The area around the nut is convex, then as you move forward along the beam toward the strut towers it becomes concave. Also note that there is a major seam weld that has pulled apart. It is the area next to this pulled seam weld that is concave. Just to let you know I have taken some measurements. First I used a normal level to make sure the car was sitting level on jack stands. Then I laid tape down underneath of my engine support and transmission support holes. I dropped a plum-bob from the bolt holes for the transmission, and the holes for the engine support , and marked them on the tape. Then I used my handy dandy metric measuring tape and came up with these numbers. 1) Engine Drivers Side to Transmission Passenger side: 1289mm 2) Engine Passenger Side to Transmission Driver side: 1287mm 3) Engine Driver Side to Transmission Drivers Side: 1182mm 4) Engine Passenger Side to Transmission Passenger Side: 1183mm 5) Drawing a straight line between the transmission holes and Engine holes and going from the center of the transmission to the center of the engine I got: 1173mm I do realize that the above measurements are not "scientifically dead on accurate." I would use them only as rough estimates. So what do you think could have happened here, and more importantly how do you go about making sure this is not going to show up when (if) I ever go to get the car aligned? Thanks for any help, hints, or condolences ![]() Rich
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 |
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I would compare your measurements to the measurements listed in the factory manuals. If your measurements are within factory tolerences you shouldn't have any issues with alignment. |
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Thanks Scott I appreciate it
![]() I have to do a little math to compare my measurements to Porsches because I measured the base of the triangle and in the workshop manual they measure the hypotenuse. I have a diagram and everything to explain this and can go over it if someone wants to see how I did it, or what I am talking about. For Measurement I I calculated that my measurements are equivalent to: 1) Engine Driver Side to Transmission Passenger Side = 1314.3mm 2) Engine Passenger Side to Transmission Driver Side = 1312.4mm Per the chart Porsche Recommends that I = 1323 +/- 5mm For Measurement O I calculated that my measurements are equivalent to: 1) Engine Driver Side to Transmission Driver Side = 1209.6mm 2) Engine Passenger Side to Transmission Passenger Side = 1210.6mm Per the Chart Porsche Recommends that O = 1220 +/- 3mm Here is the Chart: ![]() And the corresponding Diagram:
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 Last edited by Rich76_911s; 02-10-2009 at 07:48 AM.. |
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So it looks like I am off by about 10mm in all of my measurements. I think that difference is mainly caused by the error in my measuring technique and I am happy that they are all off by equivalent amounts. I certainly think there is 10mm of error when you add together all the measurements, and the calculations.
I might repeat the process and see if I can get similar results again just to double check myself.
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 |
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Your measurements seem so even, and the car appears straight, that I'd like to measure it against other SC's, regardless of what the book says. Also, are you taking measurements to the bolt hole centers, or to the edges? IIRC the measurements are taking from the edges of the bolt holes, not the centers. This seems a bit strange to me and perhaps I'm wrong. Does anyone know for sure how the measurements are taken that are recorded in the factory manuals? |
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1.367m later
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Looks to me like the car has suffered a rear end impact and the quarter panel has been replaced.
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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Thanks again.
Can I ask how you would proceed if this was a car in your shop? Any other checks I should do? My intentions for the car are to be a summer daily use, spirited fun runs, and long road trips. Track time may come down the road, but that is not the over-riding direction I am taking the car. I don't mind that the car was hit so long as the repairs are done correctly. Should I do an alignment using Ray Scrugs at home alignment procedure? Can that be done without the engine in the car? I am going to have the seam weld that is split welded back together, are there any other repair steps I should take to make this correct?
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB -Marine Blue '87 930 |
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Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
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Don't align the car w/o the engine. You need to set ride height first. The rear frame horn is all flat on top from the factory. The rear suspension hangs off the body well forward of your damage, so body panel fit is your only concern here, IMHO.
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