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how best to prep rusty parts

I was wondering how best to prep rusty hood, lid fender, ect. Basically I am considering buying a roller that was stripped of paint 20+ yrs ago and was primed and their it sat... covered.
Question:
1. can this reus be "arrested" properly to avoid it ruining paint 2,5, maybe 10+ yrs down the road OR is it a losing battle once rust is on the surface??
2. IF the rust can be arrested/stopped, what is the process??
3. Someone mentioned Dupont 2 step liquids...5717S & 5718S to treate the metal prior to painting.
4. **What is the Freddie Fernandez (sp) secret here as he has posted some great info but I can not find what he does in this situation...help Freddie & all!! I want to save a 73' T from the scrap yard
Bob
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:05 PM
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If it is just surface rust, you can grind it off/sand it off. If it is penetrative rust, the metal will look pock-marked. On my old restoration floorpan, I have a little of both. The penetrative rust even smells different when you grind it with a wire wheel or wire cup. If the rust is really compromising the metal, the only thing you can do is cut it out. If it is a little penetrative, even after grinding the metal isn't shiny bright after grinding. I plan to POR-15 paint over that stuff. If it is surface rust I have been told by Chris Nielsen just to grind to shiny bright, then spray it with a little zinc, then paint it with regular paint. Well, that's my plan. If you are going to resect metal, you will have to replace it by welding in 16 guage steel. Good luck!
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1969 911E Slate Grey
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:34 PM
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Thanks James for the info!
How about the areas that are unaccessible by common means to sand... what is the best way to stop the rust there??
I may be able to post some pics soon...
Bob
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:29 AM
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Hi! I'm not sure what areas you are referring to. You mean the wheel well areas? From all I have read on this forum, I believe that you have to get rid of all the rust. There really is no shortcut. But POR-15 paint seems to be the best paint to put on a rusty segment that for whatever reason you decide not to resect. Some guys put it on perfect shiny metal to protect it from future rust, but it is so hard and thick that it is pain to remove should the occasion ever arise. The meticulous restorers seem to remove all rust. Looking forward to your photos!
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1969 911E Slate Grey
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1997 911C4S Ocean Blue
Old 04-08-2009, 10:29 PM
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Thanks James... my specific question, and sorry for not being more specific, is concerning the doors, hood, lid & fenders. I am thinking of having them dunked to strip off ALL remaining paint, rust, ect. and what then to do to avoid any new rust to start in areas where it is very difficult if not impossible, to get primer or paint into...
I was thinking of having the parts re-plated, however, the plater is in Ohio and the shipping is cost prohibitive for me...thus, my dilema on how to arrest the rust
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:30 AM
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You should be able to grind all the paint off both sides of the hood. 3M makes several discs that grind paint off but doesn't harm the metal. One is purple and looks like a 1/2 inch thick purple sponge. It is very stiff and works great at removing 95% of the paint. The other disc is very thin and off-white in color. It looks like a stiff scotch brite pad. The thin disc attaches to a rubber attachment. Both methods attach to an angled grinder/air compressor.

The front fenders can come off if you really want to find rust. Then you can flip them over and grind. The inner doors would be a problem, but you shouldn't have rust in there unless your door skins had rust. And if the skins did have rust, you would resect them and weld in a patch. Chris Nielsen just posted a photo of 3M anti rust spray that he squirted on the inside of his doors.

The hood and lid would be easy to remove, flip over, and grind.

The rear fenders would require alot of work on your back. But you couldn't dunk the rear fenders unless you dunk the entire tub. If you really want to arrest rust, from what I have read you can't go wrong with POR-15 paint. They make black and grey in both glossy and satin finish. I plan on using that on the inside of my original bumpers. BTW you can't spray POR-15, you brush it on.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:38 AM
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thanks James for the tips... do you know where to see & buy the 3m discs you suggest?
Thanks,
Bob
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:35 AM
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Hi Bob,
I think any automotive paint supply store would have them. Here in Seattle they are at Wesco. Here is a link. Not sure if they have them in Massachusetts.

http://www.wescopbe.com/store_locator.htm

James
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1969 911E Slate Grey
1981 911SC Wine Red
1997 911C4S Ocean Blue
Old 04-14-2009, 09:30 AM
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Garage
Go spend some time on this forum:

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

also read Freddie's:

Metal conditioning and epoxy priming
Metal Conditioning And Epoxy Priming 101
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:04 AM
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thx James & Bob... I have plenty to read now with this new info... thx for diggin it up for me!
Bob
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:19 AM
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