Orange Peel in my clearcoat

jeos · 03-22-2010, 11:01 AM

Hi there is Orange Peel in my clearcoat

, I can wet sand it or there is a high risk of sanding through the clear lacquer?

sincerely, john

Shoepop · 03-23-2010, 07:41 PM

There is always OP in clear coat UNTIL you wet sand and polish. How many coats of CC are on the car?

Rjackel944 · Rjackel944's Garage

Wet sand it with a high grit paper, say 1000 or higher. Do it by hand, and take your time and all should be fine.

Good luck,
Ryan

jeos · 03-24-2010, 11:00 AM

(shoepop) there are only 1 coats of cc on the car.

Shoepop · 03-24-2010, 03:16 PM

John, usually 3 + coats are shot on. Pick an area you won't be able to see and try it with 1500 or 2000 grit maybe even 2500, wet sand a small area with plenty of water with a drop or 2 of dish soap in it. I don't see you getting all peel out with only one coat on but if you shot it heavy you may luck out and get something acceptable. Good luck.

jm529 · 03-24-2010, 03:49 PM

1 coat of clear is what caused the problem of orange peel and probably dry spots. 1 coat is usually not enough for the clear to flow and level out by itself. if you try to put one heavy coat to allow it to flow and level you would risk running in a few spots so 2 or 3 medium wet coats would have solved your problems.

962porsche · 04-04-2010, 01:50 AM

if there is only one coat of lacquer clear then forget about color sanding an d buffing it . one coat of lacquer clear is about 1/4 mill thick and the avarage sand off with a 1500 grit cut paper is about that 1/4 mill . orange peal starts from its under coats and as more sprayables are aplyed it just gets worse . with lacquers there is little to no flow out time . there is just not enough product getting sprayed on the substraight to get flow . that is why you always hear of people putting on 10 plus coats of lacquer clear . with urethane and enamel clears your getting about 3/4 mill per coat and that is why you get more flow .what i would do is get more lacquer clear and apply more coats . them cut and buff it . places like jegs and summit sells lacquer clears for cheap and in ready to spray form .

Shoepop · 04-05-2010, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 962porsche

what i would do is get more lacquer clear and apply more coats . them cut and buff it . places like jegs and summit sells lacquer clears for cheap and in ready to spray form .

Question, what is the time frame if one wanted to spray on a few extra coats of clear on a new paint job that had been color sanded still had peel and clear not 'burned' through. Would you be SOL after a day, a week a month???

962porsche · 04-06-2010, 03:34 AM

with lacquers its about 6 to 12 hours at a temp about 70 degrees . lacquers are a very low solid paints so they flash off quichly and dry fast . the only thing to watch for is the humidity in the air . that will affect flash and dry times along with blushing . blushing looks like white spots and or streeks in the top coats . at one time there was a product called retarder you could add into the lacquer top coats to combat blushing . i don't think its made any more ??

Shoepop · 04-06-2010, 06:50 AM

Good info thanks. How about clears other than lacquers say a clear is a month old does one have to remove existing clear or can one simply rough up the existing 'month old' and respray?

rw7810 · rw7810's Garage

you can respray over clear. Sand with a 600 grit wet.

962porsche · 04-06-2010, 03:07 PM

becouse lacquer is reversible meaning with a solvent it will turn back to a liquid state . top coating is very ez . you don't have to go crazy getting in all the corners but a good sanding is always best ! but a 800 , 600 or 1000 grit is fine when top coating lacquer color or clear coats . always try to stay away from using lacquers its an antique product and once used it a pain in the ass to use other products like urethanes and enamels over the top . becouse like i stated its reversible when you apply a catalyzed (hardener) product over the top your lacquer under coats still want to move around when the catalyzed top coats are locked up tight . a lacquer compaired to enamels and urethanes do not expand and contrack at the same rate so all kinds of bad things may and do happen . like delamination (pealing paint) srinking in and so on .

Shoepop · 04-06-2010, 06:15 PM

I THINK I got it. I have an extra hood I had painted when the original hood was sprayed a few months ago it was shot with a 2 stage Matrix paint 'not lacquer'. The car came out great but the extra hood must have been shot by the janitor. Hood is straight but clear not so great I KNOW they were running short on the clear I provided and no one is able to tell me how many coats are actually on. Since I'm going to do the color sand and buff out on it I figured it wouldn't hurt to shoot on a few more coats of clear since the hood has a lot of peel so I will get another quart and shoot away. Thanks all.

GradyM · 04-11-2010, 05:58 PM

Why are you using laquer??

962porsche · 04-12-2010, 07:19 PM

alot of people use lacquer becouse in some ways its user frendly and at a low cost . it may blush ez but being a very low solid it is hard to run and if you mess up recoating is simple . i could list all the down sides but not it this time .

kenikh · 04-22-2010, 02:46 PM

People use laquer because it is gimp easy to shoot - a hamfisted idiot like me back in college couldn't get a run or drip using it. Just shot some single stage acrylic urethane enamel yesterday using an HVLP gun and DAMN does it take some touch, comparatively speaking.

When it comes to clearcoat, just wetsand it flat and if you start seeing color in the water, just shoot some more clear over it. Gotta love 2 stage.

962porsche · 04-22-2010, 06:50 PM

gimp easy ! i like that . when you shoot any enamel based product allways put on a very light coat first . (just a dusting ) always let it tack off (aka flash ) tuch the masking tape with your finger you should leave a finger print but nothing should come off on your finger . tuch the tape not the masking paper becouse the solvents soak into the masking paper and it will not soak into the tape .

kenikh · 04-22-2010, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 962porsche

gimp easy ! i like that . when you shoot any enamel based product allways put on a very light coat first . (just a dusting ) always let it tack off (aka flash ) tuch the masking tape with your finger you should leave a finger print but nothing should come off on your finger . tuch the tape not the masking paper becouse the solvents soak into the masking paper and it will not soak into the tape .

Indeed I did.