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Just saw your "Octisserie" thread...brilliant!

DJ
Old 06-07-2010, 07:53 AM
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Oh...my...god John. What a resto project.

I cannot believe that your car had so much rust. I have nothing but respect for you taking on such a project and I know you'll do a great job. Let me know when you need a hand, but I think I'll drop around one afternoon irrespecttive just to have a look.
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'92 964 Carrera 2 (Manual)
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Connolly View Post
John,

Thanks for the quick get back. One more question for you. Did you know how to Mig/Tig weld before you started this Odessy?

DJ
I'd done a little off and on over the years, but I actually went out and bought a Mig for this project. A day of practice had me laying pretty good beads - it's all about dialling the welder for your job. It's certainly something you can learn.
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-08-2010, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZCarrera3 View Post
Oh...my...god John. What a resto project.

I cannot believe that your car had so much rust. I have nothing but respect for you taking on such a project and I know you'll do a great job. Let me know when you need a hand, but I think I'll drop around one afternoon irrespecttive just to have a look.
Rust never sleeps Sheldon! Though come have a look at the galvanised donor shell I'm picking at, and you'll feel a whole lot better about owning a later car

I'm hoping the final replacement body panels will arrive by the weekend (kidney bowls that support the outer rocker panel), the black "shipping paint" will be stripped off all these replacement panels and a nice coat of 2k epoxy gets laid down. Then I can start thinking about how I'm going to stitch it all back together!

I'm sure I'll be needing help at some stage, but the 'octisserie' really has allowed it to be comfortably managed by one person so far. I reckon I'll want help bolting all the repainted panels back on - don't want to scratch ANYTHING!

Let me know if you want some of this for a write up in the club mag...
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-08-2010, 05:28 PM
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Hey John,

When you are finish yours can you make a start on mine.

I would like it back to the original colour, Yellow.

How do you find the time with a full time job and young child? It has taken me 6 month to put anti roll bars on the westie and I am still not finished.

BTW my wife has just started working with your lot in at the eco building.
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:47 PM
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No worries Steve Signal or Bahama Yellow?

Time? 4 hours a weekend if I'm lucky!

What's this "your lot"? It's "our lot"
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-18-2010, 02:04 AM
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Well I've moved a little closer to welding in new metal...

There was a couple of nasty rust holes, one was immediately under the door hinge post which required me to cut the bottom of the post off (it was rusted out also, and I need to fabricate a rather complex repair there...). The metal from the dodgy old rockers has provided a good source for patches







The second bit of bad rust was in the layer at the jack post. This area is three layers with the body unit and the inner rocker overlapping; a third layer is provided by the jack plate - this was a relatively easy patch to make.






This weekend I removed the rusty kidney bowl which supports the outer rocker - its a tricky job as there's no room to get in to the spot welds at the top, so I had to cut another section of the fender and door shut away to get it off.

Today was good weather, so I spent it stripping the black paint from the Dansk repair panels. I found most of the parts were coated in a black enamel which is unsuitable to provide long-term corrosion protection - it's only there to protect the metal from flash rust after production and transport. One or two pieces were coated in a better epoxy paint, but I didn't want to take the chance and everything went back to bare metal. I also gave the whole repair area a clean up with the sand blaster and a coat of 2k epoxy prior to the welding work which will take place.







As you can see, everything ended up in a nice coat of white 2k epoxy (A lot of people prefer black or grey... I prefer free regardless of colour ;-)

So now I will spend a few hours cleaning up and fitting the new panels with sheet metal screws, hammer and dolly, and finally spot welding things in place. The door will go on and come off several times to get panel lines all lined up before final welding. Then I get to do it all over again on the passenger side!

The final photos show how it will hopefully go back together...



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John Forcier
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Last edited by Fishcop; 06-20-2010 at 12:21 AM..
Old 06-20-2010, 12:18 AM
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I enjoy reading your updates, Fishcop. Question though, don't the repair panels in the eighth pic of your last post have the repair piece you fixed on the inside of the jackpost? Are you repair panels the ones available from the host, or different?
Old 06-20-2010, 08:41 AM
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Ratpiper, I'm not quite sure I know what you mean, sorry. The inner rocker panel end with the jack tube hole slips behind the unibody panel with the same hole (the extension I made), I'd already cut it free before the photos. The jack tube support plate (the small panel with the square hole) goes over the top to finish. It all gets hidden by the outer rocker, so I've been a bit lazy with my welds
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-20-2010, 02:37 PM
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Hi John,

serious amount of work you have achieved so far, keep up the posts have been following your rebuild with interest.

regards
Glenn
Old 06-21-2010, 01:45 AM
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Thanks Glenn - I need the encouragement!
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-21-2010, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Ratpiper, I'm not quite sure I know what you mean, sorry. The inner rocker panel end with the jack tube hole slips behind the unibody panel with the same hole (the extension I made), I'd already cut it free before the photos. The jack tube support plate (the small panel with the square hole) goes over the top to finish. It all gets hidden by the outer rocker, so I've been a bit lazy with my welds <img src="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg">
Just reread your post and you said it built up in three layers so no I get it, I think. I guess it's hard to picture it when you haven't done this before.
Your welds look fine to me. Keep the updates coming.
Old 06-21-2010, 05:05 AM
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What did you do with your heater tubes? Reinstall them?
Old 06-21-2010, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by merbesfield View Post
What did you do with your heater tubes? Reinstall them?
Haven't decided, and I won't be welding it all up until the floor arrives, so I have some time to think... The car hasn't had heat for 8 years (headers), and living in a pretty warm place, I've no real need - but of course I'm conscious of future owners/custodians.

The originals were completely perished and no good. And then I priced replacements I think I'll look at some PVC tube of an appropriate diameter and that way heat can be reinstalled.

Anyone out there got some better ideas, or should I bite the bullet and replace them?
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-22-2010, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ratpiper71T View Post
Just reread your post and you said it built up in three layers so no I get it, I think. I guess it's hard to picture it when you haven't done this before.
Your welds look fine to me. Keep the updates coming.
Yeah, I'll take photos on the other side before I cut (presuming it needs replacement) so you know what I mean...
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-22-2010, 02:10 AM
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I don't think you should use PVC? Not sure why you would want to. Here are pics of my old heater tubes. They are basically just a muffler and look like a Cherry Bomb old style muffler. I am thinking the same type deal can be remade by me with tubing, mesh and modern insulation materials. I am going to go to the local muffler shop and have them make me a couple of reducer cones that will reduce the metal exhaust tubing as needed. Not sure how yours worked, but basically these just had a hole cut in the side allowing heat to vent out of the heater slides. They were welded to the edges of the vent opening from inside the car. I will use muffler clamps at either end and then tack weld the nuts so the will not loosen.


Old 06-22-2010, 06:02 AM
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The heater tunes for lwb's are different thanthose for swb's. They are like a flexible mesh dryer hose- there's an idea maybe something from the hvac department of your local hard ware store. Maybe you could find something identical. I would place a want to buy add ont he used parts forum. Plenty of folks have removed their heater tubes to make race cars. Just require pics first to make sure they're usable and correct.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratpiper71T View Post
The heater tunes for lwb's are different thanthose for swb's. They are like a flexible mesh dryer hose- there's an idea maybe something from the hvac department of your local hard ware store. Maybe you could find something identical. I would place a want to buy add ont he used parts forum. Plenty of folks have removed their heater tubes to make race cars. Just require pics first to make sure they're usable and correct.
Funny you mention the HVAC idea. I have talked to my friend who is in the business and they use flex duct to make the lines quite at the end of a run. Wonder what sort of heat those things build up? Check out this link. Only problem I see is not being able to get back in for future work.

Unico ductwork
Old 06-22-2010, 08:32 AM
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If the heater tubes get hot enough to warrant the sort of fire-proof packing that I see in the photos, I'd be worried about the toxic gases that would be released if you used PVC tubes.
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'92 964 Carrera 2 (Manual)
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Old 06-22-2010, 03:07 PM
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I've got an intact tube I can recover from my parts wreck, so maybe I'll just try and source a second and put them in. The originals are cactus.
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 06-22-2010, 07:37 PM
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