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Bird. It's the word...
 
Fishcop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Hey Mike

Thanks for the support. Your blog has been in my 'favourites' list for quite some time I don't know how anyone could possibly contemplate welding over their heads!
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 08-08-2010, 03:35 PM
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hi John,
Awesome work your doing, and pretty swift progress too! What did you do where the floor pans join? a butt weld or overlap? Im almost at this point and cannot decide which to do.
Keep up the good work.
Reuben
Old 08-09-2010, 12:16 AM
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Bird. It's the word...
 
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Reuben, Kei te pehea koe?

I ended up butt welding... I have a flanging tool but because I went with the technique of laying the overlapping replacement panel over the metal to be cut out, tech screwed it, and then cut both sections out leaving a 1mm gap all the way around the remaining patch which is pretty easy to weld neatly.

Are you using a new floor, or one you cut out of a wreck?
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 08-09-2010, 12:45 AM
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Kei te pai! Me koe?
I also have a flanging tool but think a butt weld will be neater. I'm using the dansk floors which are split down the middle. I havn't seen many people using them, but we had some old unused ones left at work. (nice and cheap!).
Old 08-09-2010, 12:57 AM
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Bird. It's the word...
 
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You're lucky having access to the floors! The Dansk ones were the only choice here too. I tried to recover a whole floor from a wreck, but the rear was too damaged to be useful. RD do the halves in front and rear, but it cost me $300 to get the panel down here!

The nice thing about flanging the joint on L and R halves is you can work on getting the fit nice on either side and the flange allows a few mm movement to get it right before you weld that middle seam. The join will only be visible from underneath too (though seam sealer an shutz will completely hide it).
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway

Last edited by Fishcop; 08-09-2010 at 01:21 AM..
Old 08-09-2010, 01:17 AM
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hmm perhaps a flange is the way to go on that join, Il just have to super rust proof it to make sure it doesnt rust again in future. i think the tunnel is a bit of a moisture trap.
Your progress is inspiring me to get moving on mine. Thanks!
Old 08-09-2010, 01:30 AM
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I was wondering if the factory should have allowed for water to escape from the tunnel if it were to get in. What about drilling holes in the low spots and using the rubber drain plugs like they use in the front pans? I know it would look funny, but I guess it would work. My idea is to never wash the car or drive in the rain so it will not be an issue. ha ha.
Old 08-09-2010, 04:32 AM
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Later cars have extra drain holes just as you describe. I have copied the size (8mm) and location of the holes on the SC front floor I used and replicated the same thing on the rear RD panel, I will indeed have drain holes to a) remove moisture and b) to access the cavity with a rust preventative every few years.
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 08-09-2010, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishcop View Post
Later cars have extra drain holes just as you describe. I have copied the size (8mm) and location of the holes on the SC front floor I used and replicated the same thing on the rear RD panel, I will indeed have drain holes to a) remove moisture and b) to access the cavity with a rust preventative every few years.
John, can you provide the location so I could replicate the holes? I like the idea of being able to get in there as well. I have a Wurth Multi-gun used to spray Body Wax. I will use it spray all cavities so this would work out great.
Old 08-09-2010, 05:26 PM
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Sure thing, I'll grab some measurements and photos for you.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishcop View Post
Sure thing, I'll grab some measurements and photos for you.
Thanks
Old 08-09-2010, 07:59 PM
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Did the final install and a bit of grinding. There's still a bit of welding to be done from the other side, but the internal elements are complete. Just a bit of seam sealing to do. I'll final prime and paint the interior body colour later. I'm treating the dash as a separate component - but it will be satin black as per the factory







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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 08-14-2010, 11:47 PM
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Looks good. What primer are you using?
Old 08-15-2010, 04:51 PM
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Sub'd

Great project - even better as it's being done by a fellow Aussie!!
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:21 PM
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Hi Mark, not sure what brand the primer is... a painter friend gave me a litre with hardener. I know it is not one of the "major" brands, but one made here in Australia. I've tested it pretty thoroughly and I'm happy it's sticking like mud to a blanket... I'll probably go with Glasurit for the exterior though.

D911SC, thanks for the support!
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:09 AM
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Outstanding work !!
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:59 AM
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Well after more than a month hiatus which included a ski trip, and week of sole parenting duties; I've picked up the welder again.

First job (which took me longer than I expected) was to fill in and grind smooth all the assortment of holes poked in the car over 40 years of stereo systems, old-skool bag phones, air conditioning, and dumb-ass accessories... I've done this for a couple of reasons, a) I'm anal and b) I want to minimise noise/odour/dust entering the cabin. I could have just used rubber plugs but obviously the full strip allows me the luxury of welding it all up.

I also filled in the remaining holes in the floor and the final floor seams at the front inner arches and the rear section of the pan where a seam weld is required just under the shift coupler.

Finally I got to weld in the right inner rocker. I ended up using some appropriate tubing to keep the use of heat (although I won't be setting it up at this stage) before closing it up. I timed it pretty well as I ran out of gas as I finished the last plug.

So I'm off for more gas before tackling the left inner rocker tomorrow





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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 09-23-2010, 03:14 AM
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Hi All

A bit more progress. I made new jack tubes, as the factory replacements are $90 each, and it's just 30x30mm box (2mm thick), I picked up a metre for $10. The angle of the cut is 22.5 and rather than press the end of the tube as the factory does, I just cut a wedge out and welded the seam. They fit perfectly and I was able to complete the job by welding the jack plate over the top.







With the inner sills fully welded in, I was able to remove the support braces - the outer sills are not structural. I'm using Dansk replacements and as many of you know, these are not perfect and require a bit of massaging to get fitted correctly - this brings me to my request of any of you that have done this to give me an idea of where to start!



A preliminary fit sees me with great door and fender gaps; but as you can see, the sill tapers down towards the front leaving it too low and I really don't want to be adding unnecessary filler after all this work I'm really keen to get these right and finish them off as I can then begin the full strip/prime/paint process





Thanks for any tips or advice
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 09-27-2010, 12:37 AM
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Hammer and dolly, etc. You can do it. Just take your time and get it right. You are doing a great job.
Old 09-27-2010, 03:53 AM
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John,

How much did you play with door and fender alignment? Is the bottom of the door already adjusted all the way inward? You might be able to take up at least some of the space there, and the fender dog leg should be even more compliant. The other thing to try, if you haven't already, is compressing the outer sill top to bottom in the front. I found the lower edge of the outer rocker to descend slightly toward the front, and by pushing it up a little (with a jack), the compression pushed the outer edge out a little further. That might get you another mm or so.

Otherwise my first step was welding along the top seam. Getting that fully pressed in and straight offered the least room for error. That gave a solid line for moving things around at the bottom edge.

Nice work on the jack tubes. You're moving along well.

Mike
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:03 AM
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