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Bird. It's the word...
 
Fishcop's Avatar
 
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Thanks Gents

I'll begin with a bit of Mike's finesse and then Mark's BFH If all else fails I have a plumber mate who thinks he can still remember how to use lead

PS Mark, how did that floor of yours go? As you can see, hammer and dolly gets the Restoration Design floor pretty close...
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:35 PM
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I'm just wondering.... aren't you burning off the epoxy when you weld the panels shut? I'm doing alot of similar repairs, and I've been trying to treat everything with picklex20 before I seal it up. I've drilled extra holes to spray the inner cavities with Eastwood internal frame coating, and then I will put rubber plugs in the holes. Should I just paint the inner surfaces before I weld on the inner/outer rockers?

Problem is, I'm trying to sandblast the sections I'm working on, and I think I'm contaminating all my picklexed areas with dust, so maybe I should get some paint in those areas, and try and repaint any burnt areas later (rollcage...etc...)

Evan
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #82 (permalink)
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Hi Evan

Yes I am burning small sections where I weld Where I can I use a weld-thru zinc primer (where I can't get to the back of the weld). Otherwise I just repaint whenever I have more epoxy in the gun. It seems like whenever I think I've finished with the MIG, something else pops up

Yes definitely paint the inner portions of the sills while you have them open, the small amount of damage welding will do will be protected by the Eastwoods/waxoil etc...

I think it's worthwhile to lay a coat of epoxy over metal you're finished with or not working on for a while. I mainly use the Picklex when I'm leaving bare metal any longer than a day or two - but less than a week (though it's clearly capable of being left for considerably longer). We're just coming into our tropical season and the humidity is building up which means untreated metal flashes within hours

I laid what I hope will be a final epoxy coat this afternoon and seam sealed the floor I'll post some pictures shortly
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:04 AM
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Well I did a fair bit of fettling of the outer sill and I think it's going to come together pretty well now. But rather than rush in and weld, I decided to ensure the inner sills were protected with a full coat of epoxy and seam sealed - it's arguably the most vulnerable area in the car and deserves some attention!











Hoping to to do the final hang and weld of the outer sills tomorrow!
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:28 AM
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Do you spray or brush your epoxy primer? I am not set up to spray yet and my car is at the opposite end of my shop from the paint booth. I have been brushing or spraying with rattle bombs. Anywhere I want it heavy I will brush on the Zero Rust or POR15. The stuff seems very durable.
Old 09-29-2010, 04:45 PM
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I spray... though in hind sight there's no reason I couldn't brush most areas - spray definitely gets into all areas and in my mind is a little easier. I'm set up to spray HVLP outside, but only short bursts (so I don't annoy my neighbours). The full prime and paint will be in a booth at a mate's house.

We can get POR15 here, but not Zero Rust. I did the 'old skool' etch primer thing on a resto years ago, but this time I've basically followed Freddie Hernandez's instructional stickies and used a metal prep/clean/2k epoxy primer. I've done some test pieces and am really impressed with how well epoxy bonds to clean bare metal and am really comfortable using bondo/filler primer and topcoat over the top of the epoxy.

How did your floor go?
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishcop View Post
I spray... though in hind sight there's no reason I couldn't brush most areas - spray definitely gets into all areas and in my mind is a little easier. I'm set up to spray HVLP outside, but only short bursts (so I don't annoy my neighbours). The full prime and paint will be in a booth at a mate's house.

We can get POR15 here, but not Zero Rust. I did the 'old skool' etch primer thing on a resto years ago, but this time I've basically followed Freddie Hernandez's instructional stickies and used a metal prep/clean/2k epoxy primer. I've done some test pieces and am really impressed with how well epoxy bonds to clean bare metal and am really comfortable using bondo/filler primer and topcoat over the top of the epoxy.

How did your floor go?
Floor went in great. I have sprayed the epoxy on one of my Land Cruiser bodies that I am working on and you are correct, it is incredibly durable. I will still scuff it with 36 before applying any fillers though. How do you spray small amounts, "short bursts" with all the mixing? Doesn't the 2K have a short pot life? And you have to clean the spray gun too. Do you spend a lot of time before and after you spray? Do you have suggestions?
Old 09-30-2010, 05:04 AM
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The epoxy I use has a 2 hour pot life and a 48 hour window to paint over, so I'll be doing a fair bit of scuffing If you want longer pot life you can get fast, medium and slow hardeners which extend or shorten the pot life. I love that epoxy is water proof and the job can sit pretty much indefinitely until I get back to it, not like the old etch primers.

For small amounts, I use a set of digital kitchen scales to measure out the ratios (4:1) by weight. I use throw away paper cups, tare the scales with the cup on and ladle paint in followed by a syringe to add the hardener and another syringe to add 10% (by weight) of thinner. Obviously there is some differences in specific gravity but the volumes work out about right. So for a metre square I usually measure up about 55-60ml of paint - 40g of epoxy, 10g of hardener and 5g thinner and use a plastic knife to mix. I work outside and just use a mask with an organic solvent filter. I have good neighbours and if I'm brief they don't seem to notice.

I used to use a small detail gun for these jobs, but I find the full size guns cope fine with small amounts and spray nicer. Clean up is the same - I use a bucket with a lid of cheap thinners (over and over) and just throw the whole gun in, I do a final clean with clean thinners. I use a cheap dedicated gun for the epoxy, the filler primer, and a good gun (which I treat better ) for top coats.
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:31 PM
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Driver side sill on! RHD remember

A lot of hammer and dolly... read BFH and timber drift





Still fitting up the rear quarter which has to have a portion cut away to access the work area. I'm quite pleased as there'll be little bog required to smooth it out Alignment is fine and gaps are good... cross fingers!









I've also welded up the holes from the incorrectly located rear view mirror and also filled the aerial hole as there will be no radio in this beastie

Another couple of hours on this side should see it complete. And then the the other side...
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Old 10-01-2010, 01:45 AM
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Suhweeet!! That's some nice body work there. What did you use to cut the rear quarter with so that it would refit so well?
Old 10-01-2010, 04:49 AM
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Hey Ratpiper

I used an $80 air body saw - cuts a really nice <1mm slice (and quick!)
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:57 AM
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Fishcop, Really nice work there. I've been working like a mule at the Hotel all summer and haven't had a lot of time to look at what everyone is doing in the paint and body work forum.

Looks like I got back in the nick of time. I plan to do the rockers soon on my SC. The photos of your work will help a lot.

My biggest fear is how to open up the wheel well without cutting out to much and still having all the pieces go back together properly. You seem to have cut several smaller sections to make a larger opening, I like that idea. Glad I saw this post.

The color primer you are using photographs really well and you can still see a lot of detail below the color.

I will be referencing this page when I finally get started. Hopefully I can get to it this winter.

Great thread. thanks for posting.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:47 PM
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Thanks for the kind comments Sailchef.

Outer rockers are in!

Not an easy task with the repro panels. There was a fair bit of persuasion with a deadblow hammer and wooden drift and I'm not entirely satisfied with the right sill, nothing a skim of bog won't fix but I might go back to it later with the hammer and dolly. If I was to repeat this job I'd seriously consider using the 964 part numbered sills and filling the divots...

I also welded on the quarter panels and ran some epoxy over everything until I get back to it. The next task will be the laborious removal of the remaining underbody asphalt layer from under the front pan, inner front arches, rear arches, and from under the front fenders whilst I'm at it. After that comes the removal of the exterior paint work and filler... I'm a bit worried as judging by the previous work I've been fixing, someone was very fond of bog



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Old 10-05-2010, 02:43 AM
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John, i found a wire brush attachment on the end of a drill works real well up the front end a less than a day will see the whole front end in bare metal

Michael
Old 10-10-2010, 11:03 PM
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Hi Michael. Yeah, drill is good for nooks and crannies, but the wire twist brushes on a grinder are the schiz I'm using a cup and a wheel as well as the 3M scuff wheels that take the rust and paint but don't do anything to the metal

Today's job was the right front wheel arch... Pretty much original and very little rust. I first move a fair bit using stripper and a scraper; this actually removes a fair bit. I then do a second coat and work it in with a wire brush before neutralising it with prepsol and wiping all the emulsified gunk off. I then work the wire wheels where I can and some manual sanding where I can't. I finish it all off by polishing all the metal with the 3M wheel.

I had a few holes to weld up from aerial attachments and the old A/C routing. I very nearly decided to remove the right side battery box, but after cleaning it up it was in such good condition I've decided to leave it and make some kind of little custom toolbox to fit in it in the future

Final job is a dose of Picklex (metal prep/conditioner of your choice) and let dry. Prepsol is again and lay down some epoxy...













There's a solid 3-4 hours in just this one wheel arch. So I've many more days of fun to come
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishcop View Post
Hi Michael. Yeah, drill is good for nooks and crannies, but the wire twist brushes on a grinder are the schiz I'm using a cup and a wheel as well as the 3M scuff wheels that take the rust and paint but don't do anything to the metal
John, how are you going to get into all the corners inside the rear wheel well? It seems that a wire brush will not quite reach all the tight spots.
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:33 PM
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John, how are you going to get into all the corners inside the rear wheel well? It seems that a wire brush will not quite reach all the tight spots.
Totally manually

I use "Diggers" paint stripper liberally and wait 15 minutes followed by a very stiff scraper. This takes a lot off, then I use another round of stripper with a manual wire brush ('ve got a few sizes) and steel wool. The key is then to douse liberally with prepsol/wax remover in a spray bottle - this deactivates the stripper and emulsifies the asphalt/stripper mix. I then run a rag over over it and it all comes away to leave clean bare metal.

I then wash and prep the metal before a coat of epoxy.

Hope that helps
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:00 AM
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Thanks John - I've been too nervous to get out the paint stripper but this may be my only option to really clean back in all those tight spots.

I shoulda made myself an octisserie!! Last time I try this much work on 4 jack stands

Cheers, Darren
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:23 PM
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Darren, your underbody deadener is a polyurethane as opposed to my old asphalt based stuff... Yours will pretty much require mechanical removal - wire wheels/grinders etc...
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:03 PM
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Thanks again John. I'll continue with the power tools.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:01 AM
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