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Bird. It's the word...
 
Fishcop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Port Macquarie NSW Australia
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Restoration of my 69 911

Hi All

I've chosen to post/blog into this forum after posting about the idea of a Restoration Forum. In general the consensus is that here might be the best place. I personally find it quite hard to keep track of my favourite reno threads and often miss cool threads due to odd titles and my searches missing the key words.

I've been running an up to date thread on www.typ901.org but unless you're a member on that board photos do not display. I've decided to keep a simultaneous thread here just incase any one is interested in what I'm doing AND for you guys to let me know if I'm doing something wrong - many eyes etc...

My car is reasonably well known on this board and there is pretty much 10 years of its history and changes documented on Pelican. It is a 1969 911t which was delivered in Ossi Blau and factory RHD to Australia where it has remained for its entire life. I'm the 5th owner. When I bought the car in 2000 it had received a 'restoration' by the PO which included blasting and repaint in Arrow Blue (L305) and a new interior in a completely wrong fabric and blue colour. I ended up changing it out to black. The resto also apparently removed all the rust from the car... Something I discovered just wasn't true.

Here's the car just before I began the dismantle...



I knew the car had developed rust in the sills/rockers and in the floor pan and that it required fairly extensive surgery.

So fast forward to 2010...



I began by stripping out the entire interior and bagging it up for storage (in the wine cellar which should keep mould away in my warm location). I originally planned to just re-use it, but some inspiring threads have me thinking about a change of colour and leather... sometime in the future.





Then I set task to disassembling the body





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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway

Last edited by Fishcop; 10-26-2010 at 11:59 PM..
Old 05-29-2010, 06:12 PM
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Bird. It's the word...
 
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I decided I really wanted this job to be done properly - this meant being able to get to every part of the car. A rotisserie was in order... I made some enquiries with good people and Hayden Burvill at WEVO put me on to Gary Emmory's "The Rack" The Rack This is the perfect tool for moving a 911 about and rolling it over when needed.

My build of my "Octisserie" is covered here My Alternative to a Rotisserie so I won't hash it over again, but it has been absolutely invaluable.



Once the car was completely stripped, I decided to work on the monocoque and replace all rust with good metal. Following this, the intention is to get the car into epoxy before working on smoothing everything out. Inspection of the body identified rust I never knew existed as well as the rust I did; but it was also quite sound in places I was really scared of - overall not too bad and certainly better than some of the oxidised hulks I've seen others successfully recover. What was clear was that the car needed an entire floor, there was just too much perforation through out and it had got very thin in other places.







I made removing the floor my first challenge... It's a bugger of a job with around 200 spot-welds to drill...









Be prepared for what you find once you pull the floor in these old un-galvanised bodies!

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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-29-2010, 06:38 PM
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I was lucky enough to find a cut up 911 shell with a mostly intact floor and other key parts that will be useful to cut metal from.



I've decided to follow Freddie Hernandez's tips on bodywork and am chemically and mechanically cleaning good metal before a coat of 2k epoxy primer. I picked up a pot sandblaster which has been great for small and inaccessible areas. I'm also using Picklex20 to keep unsealed metal protected whilst I work on it (so far it's been a great product).





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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-29-2010, 06:58 PM
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It turns out that the floor section I cut from the wreck has a little too much damage at the rear to use, so I'll use the front section and I've ordered a rear floor pressing to graft on.

Whilst waiting for the floor to arrive, I decided to begin work on the replacement of inner and outer rocker panels. Here I discovered what a bad job the previous "restoration" had been. The sills were not replaced but a 'veneer' of sheet steel was welded over the top of the old outer rocker and a half inch of bog was "artfully" sculptured to re-form the silhouette!


Pulling the floor AND rockers means there is very little support in the chassis and the possibility of flex becomes concerning. Although the car is bolted into the octisserrie/rack firmly (and it has the support of the coupe roof); and I'll only to one side at a time, some reinforcing was in order.



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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-29-2010, 07:28 PM
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TR TR is offline
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Holy moly Bro
Thats some chop job you have had to do. Is it raining up in Brizzo today. think you better get back out the shed you have a lotta work to do.

Where are you getting your sills from?

cheers
Terry
Old 05-29-2010, 07:47 PM
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Hi Terry

Weather is a bit Victorian today with fours seasons... I've given myself a year to complete and intend to get it to "Magazine Quality"

Mark Poole (Mark Poole Motorsport) in SA keeps a stock of Dansk repro panels... Prices are competitive with panels shipped and landed through other sources (eg outer sill is $165 inc gst)

Cheers
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-29-2010, 07:59 PM
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Are you running mfi or carbs in that car---were running?
Old 05-29-2010, 08:07 PM
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The original webers - just re-set for the 2.7RS config. I'd love to put MFI on it, the rebuild will include a second fuel line installed in the tunnel for future...
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-29-2010, 08:19 PM
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If you pick up my thread i am just trying to set up the mfi for my engine, appears I ended up with all the correct RS spec items when the engine I bought was a 2.4 E. The engine came from a bunch of Porsche freaks who ran a shop out of a barn in the middle of Belgium. I know they were right into it because of all the rare stuff they had hanging around. The owner had an RSR.
My car needed a crown and pinion, at the time Ozzy Porsche price was just short of four grand, I got it from them for 750 bucks. Apparently they knew a guy who bought up all the Porsche old stock and had mountains of the stuff.

Ended up buying half a new kit to rebuild the box.
Think they quit the business the guys wife got cancer. I can't find them anymore.

Have you got another porsche?





I had the pump overhauled in 94--only cst 800 to have the work done including shipping to the USA. just installed the rebuilt engine now--long restoration that was.
Old 05-29-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrance Raath View Post
Have you got another porsche?
I'm a bum public servant with a 1 year old! One Porsche is all I'm allowed
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway

Last edited by Fishcop; 05-30-2010 at 01:20 AM..
Old 05-29-2010, 09:22 PM
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This looks like it's going to be a great project...good luck John.
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:49 AM
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John,
Will you use the Picklex 20 on metal that will be finish painted?
Old 05-30-2010, 05:52 AM
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Mr. Fishcop: That is a great project you got there, surely is bound to be a example on how to restore a car, would it be possible to mention the hours logged, so others there are about to embark on similar projects can have an idea.
Thanks
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Old 05-30-2010, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Wilson View Post
John,
Will you use the Picklex 20 on metal that will be finish painted?
Hi Mark

I originally bought the Picklex to look after exposed metal whilst I work on it. Best advice of course is to immediately seal metal with epoxy after working on it, but obviously that isn't practical for ongoing jobs. So far the Picklex has been great - I've got a couple of test pieces that have remained corrosion free 2 months (kept dry), the stuff definitely works. The big advantage is not having to wash it off like ospho/metal ready. I've epoxied over the Picklex in a couple of areas to test adhesion and there are absolutely no issues to speak. The Autobody Forums suggests to scuff the Picklex with a red 3M pad prior to laying epoxy if you've any doubts - though the manaufacturers of Picklex are adamant that a non-cromated (etch) epoxy primer can go over the top of their product with no issues.
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:29 PM
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That's what I wanted to hear - thanks
Old 05-30-2010, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
Mr. Fishcop: That is a great project you got there, surely is bound to be a example on how to restore a car, would it be possible to mention the hours logged, so others there are about to embark on similar projects can have an idea.
Thanks
Thanks Axiom (from you guys that's a great compliment!). I intend for this car to last well into my son's ownership, so I'm not skimping on any process.

I've tried to keep hours in perspective! We have a 1 year old boy who came along by accident last year. Effectively my weekends consist of 1 day @ 6 hours in in the shed... I have no doubt this project is going to run into hundreds, maybe a thousand hours by the time I have it where I want it I've done a couple of cars in the past and I know there will be days and days of blocking before I'm happy...

To give an idea so far, it took me a full weekend to strip the car out - I know this car quite intimately and dropping the engine/gearbox only takes me a bit over an hour. The interior was something I whipped up 8 years ago and was just perlon, so it was easy to strip. Wiring was a biatch, but I labelled most of the loom and got it out mostly in one piece, but I did cheat on one section and cut it (!). Because I've stripped at least every part once, it all went pretty smoothly with no seized fastners

Drilling the floor out was another solid 2 days work. There are at least 200 spot-welds to deal with and the back half is really tricky with three layers of metal requiring spot-welds to be drilled, plus some factory welded seams to be ground down. There was then another whole day removing the floor of my donor car...







There was another full weekend cutting out and replacing the bottoms of the rear wheel houses. I think these are just about the lowest part of the chassis and water definitely pooled here over the years. Mine weren't so bad as to need full replacement - just the bottom most sections. Fortunately my galvanised donor shell provided.





Lots of weld-through primer...





And the right side rocker has taken a solid day to remove and clean up...

This coming weekend I hope to get the inner rocker all welded up and coated in epoxy

Cheers
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway

Last edited by Fishcop; 05-31-2010 at 02:55 AM..
Old 05-31-2010, 02:42 AM
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Great work John - I have a 69 as well (oddly with a 915 and hope to be ST flares some day) so I will be following your exploits!

Cheers,
Keith
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Old 05-31-2010, 01:52 PM
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69 911

Fishcop,

It's a heck of a restore you've got going there. I'm about to start a similar journey with a 1976 912E. Where did you get the "body cage" shown in your posted pictures?

Best wishes,
DJ
Old 06-06-2010, 09:55 AM
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Hi DJ

There's a couple of links to "Octisserie" build in my 3rd or 4th post, here's the main one My Alternative to a Rotisserie

Very easy to make and totally invaluable!
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:46 PM
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John,

Thanks for the quick get back. One more question for you. Did you know how to Mig/Tig weld before you started this Odessy?

DJ
Old 06-07-2010, 06:43 AM
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