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irl irl is offline
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great job and info, suscribed
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Eddie from Baltimore
74 911 under construction searching for its new identity
75 911 backdated RSR widebody on its way
71 911T running sweet
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:30 AM
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On to the driver's side.

Cut out the old shock mount as close to the mount as I could.



Marked the donor piece for cutting.



Cut the donor piece to where I wanted it. I left a couple tabs up to the fender bolt holes to help keep things aligned while I trimmed for a perfect fit.



Positioned the donor piece and marked it's boarder with a sharpie. Then got on a roll and forgot to stop and take more pictures.

But what I did was work the end where the piece curves around the front of the tub trimming the car until it was a perfect fit to the donor piece. That gave me more points to secure the alignment. Then I trimmed the bottom edge for fit, then top edge and finally the trailing edge. Finally, I cut the tabs off and trimmed those last two inches.

Perfect fit and ready for welding.



Then I got on another roll and didn't get any more pictures until I had welded it in place, ground the welds, cleaned the area and applied the POR-15.




Fit was much better on this side and my welding is much improved. Glad to see I can still learn.
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #62 (permalink)
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Added a coat of primer.....



Then several coats of Wurth'a rubberized undercoat...



Now on to this stuff...

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Old 12-10-2010, 10:47 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #63 (permalink)
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Just a thought... learning to weld is the top of a slippery slope. It brings all sorts of ideas into the realm of possibility.....
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:14 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyGlenn View Post
{snip}...Now on to this stuff...

This is what I am thinking for these holes.

1. Wire wheel the area clean
2. Treat with rust converter like Ospho
3. Clean off residue and fill holes with JB Weld
4. Coat both sides with POR-15
5. Prime, undercoat and paint

Will this work? Thoughts?
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyGlenn View Post
This is what I am thinking for these holes.

1. Wire wheel the area clean
2. Treat with rust converter like Ospho
3. Clean off residue and fill holes with JB Weld
4. Coat both sides with POR-15
5. Prime, undercoat and paint

Will this work? Thoughts?
No No No, cut it out and replace with metal.
Old 12-17-2010, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merbesfield View Post
No No No, cut it out and replace with metal.
Yes, replace the piece with new metal, there are tons of cars out there waiting to be cut up so your can can live!
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:35 PM
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So I hear you saying "no" but I don't hear why. I should also give you a bit more of the issue. In order to weld in new metal, I need to cut back to un-rusted metal, right?. The rust extends most of the way forward as notated by red in this picture.


Replacing that much of the tub will push my skills way outside my comfort zone. I plan to weld in new metal on the other side where I have some clean metal to work with but the driver's side is a bigger challenge.

If there are recommendations of how to section the area to make the job of welding new metal palatable, I would love to hear them.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:57 PM
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Another picture showing what I think I would have to replace.

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Old 12-19-2010, 01:20 PM
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you're going through all this trouble, why leave areas you know could creep. I've done a similar repair. You can do it. Don't leave any metal in that bad of shape. it will come back to haunt you later. take your time, do it a piece at a time so you can build off of good metal. don't cut a huge section out. only replace what you need to. take your time forming the patch panels.
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Old 12-19-2010, 04:26 PM
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You can do it. The front part you did is just as hard if not more so. But do not cut it out until you have the replacement part in your hand. Once you have that part, start cutting the rusty area out until you get back to good metal then cut the replacement piece to fit. Just always cut it a little larger, so you can sand back to the exact shape you are trying to replace. Once you have done it you will be very proud of your accomplishment and then it will not seem so scary. It looks like the lip is good so maybe you could leave that in place? One tip I can give you is keep cutting until you get to good solid metal. If not welding rusty metal will make you pull your hair out, if you have any
Old 12-19-2010, 06:08 PM
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Thanks guys. You talked me into it. I've placed a WTB in the classified section using the picture above. Guess I can start by removing the doors, searching for the end of the rust and drilling out spot welds.
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:24 PM
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I would not drill or do anything to radical until you have the replacement part in your hand. You need to know what and how you are going to replace it. Don't get too ahead of yourself. You can do it. You may not want to go back to spot welds as you may not be able to get the parts back in the same order the car was built, i.e. spot welded. So you may have to just cut and butt weld. That is why having the part will help.
Old 12-19-2010, 06:29 PM
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you can hand form pieces of that area if you can't find a donor. you need a couple of good hammers, a vice, a vice dolly (for curved areas) and some sheet metal.
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:57 AM
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Would sections from a 74 work on my 78?
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:18 AM
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Replacement body sections on the way. My son helped me remove the oil lines and doors this weekend.

Now that the holidays are behind use, I hope to start making progress, again.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:09 AM
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Finally got some time to work on it. I've completed fixing the rusted sections on the front of the tub. Instead of replacing to whole section. I circled in an earlier post, I cut out and replaced several smaller sections. Both sides are solid and have a fresh coat of POR-15 on them.

Left side



Right side



Now, I need some more advice. I've got to start on the sections in the doorways. I cut a couple sections so I could see what is underneath....



A closer look shows that whatever is under the rocker is really rusted and I can see that I need to replace the "kidney bowls"



I'm not sure how to start. Do I cut out a big section of the external rocker and the rear quarter panel to repair the kidney bowls and inner rocker, or what?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:42 PM
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Glenn, it really seems that you need to pull your outer rocker and repair the inner rocker and kidney bowls... This is almost the 'universal' place these cars rust. Repair panels are available and it's really not hard (you just have to get the order right. You'll almost definitely need to do both sides
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Old 02-26-2011, 03:21 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #78 (permalink)
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Thanks John. Both sides do need the same treatment. Correct me if I'm wrong....

So, I'll need to drill out the spot welds on the top and bottom of the external rocker and cut the rear quarter to expose the kidney bowl. Right?
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:45 PM
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Do yourself a favor and start by ordering the replacement parts from whoever you want. Once you have them, you will see how they go together and more importantly how you will need to take them apart. Like John says, not that hard. You can do just like you did the others. Lots of good pics on this forum. Keep on posting your work.
Old 02-26-2011, 04:49 PM
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