prime and body work steps

[962porsche]

the 1st thing we did was put the bomb in the glass bead blasting cabinet and blast off all the heavy rust and old finish .
then we tried the use the stud gun and pull the dent's out .
you snap the studs before you even start to move the metal so we then had to heat the areas and pick them from the inside .


after that we put it back in the blasting cabinet and blasted it again .


then sprayed two medium coats of RM's EP789 epoxy primer mixed as a adhesion promoter for rust protection . to get complete coverage and have a thin mil build is all we wanted .


after the EP primer cured we did our body filler work over it .



we then put it back in the prep booth and sprayed another this time single medium coat of the EP mixed as a adhesion promoter .
this is again to protect the bare metal and also aids in adhesion for the filler primer .


letting the EP primer flash off good for about 30 minutes going wet on wet we then used 4 coats of a high build filler primer RM's DP20 .


after the 4 coats of DP20 flashed off good for 45 to 50 minutes we then sprayed a light guide coat over every thing . the guide coat will tell you how much you have sanded and how far you have to sand to remove any imperfections .

[D911SC]

Thanks for posting this. I'd like to know the technique for spraying top coat on the tail area, in particular how to get into all the surfaces and angles but still maintain a good finish.

[78-911SC]

What is this for. Display? Will you be doing some airbrushing on it?

[962porsche]

painting around the tail will not be hard it's the same as spraying any thing .

I have been googling what this bomb is what I have found out is it's a WW2 M-47 100lb incendiary .
is it real well it was at one point in time but as you would guess no longer .
from what I have found out they used to drop them in 500LB clusters so 5 in a cluster .

it is not my bomb it's a customers .
he wanted me to airbrush it with nose art of a pin up girl on both sides (if there are sides on some thing round ? ). but he did not like the price to do the pin up art .
the real color should be a blue / gray color with one red band around it (that is the only way this bomb was made).
the owner was thinking of green with a yellow strip and yellow nose .
the yellow on a bomb would mean white phosphorus .

I was thinking of doing the step of prepping and painting so maybe i will post them also ?

[78-911SC]

Wish he would have gone for the airbrush of the pin up. Have seen some around. Live in Lakeland, Fl and next week starts our sun n fun air show for a week. I'm sure there will be some aviation art. Please post pics when your finished.

[Milesaway]

Thanks for posting. Any reason you used DP 20 as opposed to 285-60 as they seem about the same price.

[962porsche]

Originally Posted by Milesaway

Thanks for posting. Any reason you used DP 20 as opposed to 285-60 as they seem about the same price.

no real reason . the dp20 and 285-60 are about the same and also the epoxy primers .
I used the RM EP over the bare metal so I just used the RM DP20 just keeping in the same product line .

[sballard]

Pardon me if this is a dumb question, but how do you mix Epoxy Primer so it promotes adhesion?

[962porsche]

Originally Posted by sballard

Pardon me if this is a dumb question, but how do you mix Epoxy Primer so it promotes adhesion?

as the RM TDS tells you to mixed 4-1-1.

with the EP on bare metals it's giving better adhesion for a number of reasons .
the 1st is epoxy's like to stick to bare metals .
so the 1st this was to spray 2 coats if EP mixed as a precoat .
this way I would get the good adhesion to the bare metal and also offer more rust protection .
the total mil build for the two coats is very thin at .5 mil thickness .

epoxy primers also offers good adhesion for polyester body filler to bite into .
after the EP cured we sanded it lightly( not to break thru to metal from sanding) when did our body filler work over it .

from doing our body filler work needless to say we had big areas of bare metal .
so before priming with the DP20 filler primer we gave it just one coat of the EP again mixed as the adhesion promoter/percoat and sprayed one light coat over the bare metal areas .
because the DP20 is a polyester based it too likes to stick to epoxy more then bare metals .
this aids in the adhesion of the DP20 to the bomb .
again two fold getting some rust protection on the bare areas and aiding in adhesion for the primer to stick .

if you had a galvanized car (like all cars after the 80's) the coating of the galvanizing is so thin it sands right off . so after you do your body filler work and you have areas bigger then a dine it's a good idea to replace the coating with a epoxy or etch primer mixed as a percoat/adhesion promoter .

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by 962porsche

..he wanted me to airbrush it with nose art of a pin up girl on both sides (if there are sides on some thing round ? ). but he did not like the price to do the pin up art ...

Too bad, would have been cool to see the final product with the pin-up girl!!