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Paint repairs, how do I continue from here?

Hello Pelicans!

I bought a 911 last year and noticed some surface rust in the trunk area. It was hidden below the tank hoses in the trunk, so I decided to make this my first bodywork project. I suspect the PO spilled some brake fluid in there.

The tank itself was taken out and I removed all traces of fluid and rust mechanically and chemically. What is left is 100% rust free metal where there was once a good amount of surface rust.

My main question is how I should finish these metal areas. They will not be visible because theyíll be hidden in the front trunk under the liner, but since my car is very original otherwise, I still want to do a better job than POR15-ing the whole area. And Iíd like to get some experience in bodywork/paint repairs for other projects.

An air compressor and an airbrush is available to me. The car is in a garage, not much dust around and itís a temperature controlled environment.
I would like to use Glasurit 22 single stage paint which I have already sourced in my carís original color. Iíve also bought some 2-K Zinc Epoxy primer that was recommended to me.

My simple plan would be to shoot a coat of 2K Zinc EP and then 2-3 thin coats of Glasurit 22.

But what should I use to fill and smooth out the small pits that were left behind by the rust I removed?
Is this what a filler primer is for or will I need a bondo-type product to fill those pits? (Iíd say the deepest ones are less than 0.4 millimeters). I hope using these fillers over a coat of 2K EP is ok.

Also, some people recommend applying a sealer before shooting the paint. Is this needed in my case?

Thanks a lot for putting up with my questions, Iím having great fun learning this.
Old 04-27-2012, 03:07 PM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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Location: branford ct
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1st wipe the area with a per body work cleaner like RM's 900 then sand the area with a 220 grit paper and feather back the OE finish that is around the bare metal area .blow the area off with a air blower and wipe it down again with the 900 and then spray your EP primer over the bare metal using no more that two medium coats (more E-type primers are not better it's worse ) .
then if you still see any rust pits you want gone you would want to fill them with a product like USC's Icing # 26006 . primers are not for the most part good for filling pin holes and rust pits . it will sink in over time and you will see them again down the road .
then after you sand the icing you will have some more bare metal spots . you will then want to spray more EP primer over the bare metal spots .
next after the ep primer slashes ( dryes a little but not to cure ) you would want to spray a filler type primer over the ep primer . just 2 or 3 coats should do ?
most but not all ep primer you can not just top coat you would need to spray primer or a sealer over it or it will peal .
you then can sand it area again with a 600 to 400 grit paper wipe it down with a pre paint cleaner clean the area real good . then tack it off using a tack rag and top coat with the 22 line . if you have any brake thrus thru the primer to the metal , icing or the old OE finish that is when you would want to use a sealer . one reason a sealer is use is to give a even surface so you will not see any rings ( AKA ass holes ) from the brake thrus later on after the new top coats are sprayed .
Old 04-28-2012, 03:46 PM
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