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dkbautosports.com
 
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NO !
i have used both . i like the limco line because it's a simple system to just with less products to buy in the long run . there 800K p[rimer can also be used as a sealer with no other products to buy . there top coats all use the same hardeners and reducers and it's just a very user friendly system . like i said before i demoed all the systems out there when i was adding a water system in my shop . i did upgrade the limco 1 ,2 and 3,systems to the limco supreme plus system . now there was no need to have 3 mix systems it's just one mix machine now and we can mix it in base coat or single stage with just changing out the binder . much easier and cheaper to use and now all one one mixing machine . i liked the system so much that i had them install one down in milford in the fab shop . now we no longer have to drive a half hour to the body shop to get some paint for the race cars . i also had BASF install one in my airbrush shop in hamden . i like the limco 4100 clear foe a cheap clear it lays down great and if you need to buff it unlike most lower market clears it buff up great . IMO if it's not the best lower grades paints out there it's at least one of the best .
Old 05-16-2012, 05:35 AM
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962,

What is your opinion on Picklex20 and then use Zero-Rust as it described on this website:

Autobodystore
and here
Autobodystore - Zero-Rust

I know John "fishcop" used picklex20, and I tried it and it working perfect with no mess... Thank you John !!!

Thank you 962 in advance,
-Y.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
i am not a fan of the por 15 product line . it's way over priced and is just an ok product for what you pay for . there are many other reasons i don't like it but i care not to talk about them .
for the most part people over use metal wash cleaners . this too i will not get into .
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Last edited by 1-ev.com; 05-17-2012 at 05:13 AM..
Old 05-17-2012, 05:08 AM
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Sounds great. I like that you don't have to hose it off. I never understood, hosing off, rust inhibitor. Sounds counter intuative.
Only issue I see with it is $$$...

Picklex-20
PINT Size $41.75
Picklex-20
QUART Size $76.50
Picklex-20
GALLON (economy size) $142.40
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:23 AM
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I would say that QUART Size $76.50 would be enough to do all car + zeroRust $50 or so... vs Por15 cost...

Also, Armando, are you coming to our meet - see my sig
My 2 c,
-Y
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:38 AM
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My paint shop suggests PPG in : DCC paint, DCXG1 hardener, and 870 reducer. that is all he will use.
Old 05-17-2012, 05:46 AM
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i too started using picklex20 after john had some good things to say about it . the guys in the race/fab shop also like it thou they don't use it much .
when it comes to what paints people like it's the same as cars people like . there are many reasons why i did not change all 5 of my paint systems over . i think the biggest ones were what is called end cost and the fact that just about every top end car uses BASF for there paint system . ferrari tried PPG for 5 years they went right back to BASF when there contract ran out . when we get ferrari's that are painted with PPG we know the color will not match right off the bat . we tried using PPG to paint them and not one and i mean not one would match . even a black ferrari 360 that we only had to spray the front fender on was miles off .
maybe for the every day cars PPG maybe ok but not the cars we do .
Old 05-17-2012, 06:56 AM
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962,

What primer would you put over "zero-rust"?
txs,
-Y.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:26 AM
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So if you use picklex20 for the metal conditioner, what do you use for a metal wash?
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armandodiaz View Post
So if you use picklex20 for the metal conditioner, what do you use for a metal wash?
you do not have wash metal in this case, just blow dust off and spray Picklex, it will do the rest...

Am i correct John?

Picklex20 Manufacturer Home Page Metal surface preparation, steel pre-treatment.

My 2c,
-Y
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:43 AM
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What about any dirt or oils that may be on the body? Should I just wipe everything down with Acetone first?
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armandodiaz View Post
What about any dirt or oils that may be on the body? Should I just wipe everything down with Acetone first?
I think you are correct, I was thinking right after sandblasting or dipping...
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:08 AM
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using shopline right now. good stuff - easy spray, using medium reducer. looks nice.
Old 05-17-2012, 06:57 PM
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I use the Picklex to protect the exposed bare metal areas whilst I did body work over days and sometimes weeks. However when I was ready to paint, I scuffed the area right back using a red scotch pad and moved forward with the paint system. Picklex states you can paint right on over it, but that's not how I used it.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:37 AM
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all we do in my shop is right after the car geting into bare metal we picklex ASAP . we never let our cars sit more than 24 hour before we get a E-primer on it . when the car is in bare metal after blasting of stripped to metal we plicklex it right away . then we sand the car and wipe it down with glasurit's 360-4 and get a E-PRIMER right on it . we only use the picklex for the time from blasting to E-primer we apply it and remove it . we don't ever spray any thing over it . it's only used to protect the metal for a very short time .
Old 05-18-2012, 11:30 AM
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962,
You were helping a lot, Thank you.

I have 2 more questions:
What do you think about this technique that those guys using?
Autobodystore
Picklex vs Por15

What brand E-primer you preferred?

Thank you in advance,
-Y.
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Last edited by 1-ev.com; 05-21-2012 at 06:22 AM..
Old 05-21-2012, 06:15 AM
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Personally, I'm replacing PPG's metal conditioner with Picklex20.

I will be use the rest of the PPG Omni line.
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Armando Diaz
85 911 Carrera - Track car
01 996 Carrera - For Sale http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=327823&highlight=996
87 944na - Old Daily Driver, now 944 CUP
03 Chevy Avalanche- Support Vehicle
70 Olds 442 W30 Conv- Gone but not forgotten
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1-ev.com View Post
962,
You were helping a lot, Thank you.

I have 2 more questions:
What do you think about this technique that those guys using?
Autobodystore
Picklex vs Por15

What brand E-primer you preferred?

Thank you in advance,
-Y.
we only use Picklex right after the car is blasted . it only stays on the car for a very shot time before we sand it back off and then blow the car off and wipe it down with the glasurit metal cleaner and get a E-Primer right on it .
we used quight a lot of the RM EP epoxy primers . you did not hear this from me !
the EP primer is the same as the glasurit epoxy primers but at less cost .
it's all from BASF just a deferent label . it's the same as the reducer we us RM's UR reducers again it's the same product just at a lower cost .
we do not try and ever convert any rusted parts at all . if it's rusted we will blast it of cut it out and replace it with new metal . so we never have to go over any products like picklex . they are always removed . we only use them to cover the bare metals untill we can sand it off and get E-Primers on them .
Old 05-21-2012, 01:03 PM
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