Paint shot - help me protect the metal

[bsimonson]

I bought my '80 911 SC three years ago and I don't know what it has been through, but the paint is for the most part in a really sad state, with tons of chips and scratches.

Up until now I have had the car in a garage when not driving it so the state of the paint has not been a real worry, and I don't mind the look. Since a couple of weeks, however, I no longer have access to a garage so the car is outside 24/7 and I'm a bit worried that it will start to rust due to lack of protection.

Obviously, a full respray is the only thing that can really sort it but I don't have the resources for that at the moment so my question is (finally =) if there is anything I can do about it myself in the mean time?

I'm really only interested in protecting the metal and to not do something that will aggravate a later restoration/respray. Finish is a low priority. Any suggestions?


I said a sorry state!


Front of fuel filler flap


Rear corner of hood (other side looks the same)




Middle of the roof


Top of fender

My highest priority are problem areas on the shell, hood and fenders I feel are not as critical...

[962porsche]

that car could get stripped with a razor blade .
i have stated this 100's if not 1000's of times . that is what happends when a sealer is not used .
then you prep a car for paint most all paint CO's give you a window of about 12 to 24 hours to get color on the car if your not useing a sealer . the reason is the cut from the sand scratch will close back up and the new top coat will have nothing to bite into . over time it will want to peal and chips very ez .
if you can get a top coat on the car with in that 12 to 24 hour window then there is no real need to seal . i how ever tend to seal most of the cars that go thru my shop .
there is also the fact that many people will prep there cars with to fine of a grit of sand paper . this too will not give the top coats any thing to bite into .

if i were you i would get a good car cover ! there is rust starting now so it will slow it down a little if you cover the car . use a real car cove made for the out doors not a plastic tarp . tarps are worse than just not covering the car at all . plastic tarps trap moisture under them .

[bsimonson]

So there is nothing I can do other than a full respray?

Thanks for your reply

/b

[962porsche]

i have stated many times in the past that there are many people that strip there cars down to bare metal when they don't need to . but this car is not that case ! this car would need to be stripped down to bare metal .
on the left fender were all the little surface rust is . i bet you will find rust like that all over the car under the finish . it's just starting to show it's self there 1st .
many time you will get that from not useing a E-primer ( etch or epoxy )1st and just spraying your primer over a big spot of bare metal . that is why when ever you do a resto on your car if you have a area bigger then a quarter you should spray a coat of E-primer down 1st . my shop rule is any bare metal spot bigger than a dime .
filler type primers do nothing to protect the subsraight ( metals) on a car . moisture goes right thru them . they tend to soak up moisture like a sponge . when you wet sand the filler primer on your car moisture is going thru it . what is saving the metal under it is the E-primer you put down 1st . the only true product the protects the metal on a car is the top coats and with that not even the base really only the clear or single stage thats on the car . now if you add a hardener to the base color that will also stop moisture from getting thru because you are cross linking the base coat components together . it's good for under bady parts but that too over time will brake down if you just did it to the outer substraights of a car . so if your looking to do a car in flat black don't think you can just add a hardener to the base and your good to go .