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Glasuitt 22 Polishing

Is Gasuitt 22 normally polished out? How long do you wait before polishing?

Thank You

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Old 07-30-2012, 05:37 PM
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glasurit will buff out like glass !
in my shop every detail guy that has every work here has tried crap they though was the best and found out that what works for old finishes does not work all that well on new finishes .
i then would have to tell them to use the presta system and low and behold it buffs out great ever time .
when your buffing new paint it's a hole new ball game !
there is or should be no good reason to start your wet sanding with grits like 1000 or even 1200 . a 1500 or 2000 grit is all you should need to sand with .
ant more course than that you will have to work to hard to buff out the sanding cut scratches you have sanded into the new finish . and finer grit than that your waisting your time sanding .
the things you hear about adding dish soap to the wetings water is BS ! there is no reason to do that it does nothing at all to stop clogging the wet sand paper . if your clogging the paper your finish is just to soft to sand .

on a new finish you will want to wait 48 hours of air dry time at 70 degrees F .
then with your 1500 to 2000 grit paper presoaked for about 15 minutes or more . (never use wet sanding paper with out presoaking it 1st)
do your wet sanding dry the panels / panels when finished . do not let the sand slug dry on the new finish .
if you drop your wet sanding paper on the ground do not use it any more and throw it away .
then with your compound and the proper polishing bonnet /buffing pad start to do your buffing . when buffing work from the top left to the right . ( like you do writing a letter )
you do this because of the way the buffer spins . you don't want to fling the used compounds onto the freshly buffed areas . there is also the fact that you will use less product by it getting tossed into the areas you have not buffed yet .
when your buffing with the compound you will start to bring a shine up to the new top coats . this is the time to check and see if you have sanded the things like the dust nibs out all the way . and if you have to you at this time can go back and sand the little nib out more if you have to . it is not uncommom to need to go back and sand a little more after you start your compounding .
on many lighter colors you will not have to do all 3 setps (compounding , polishing and swirl removel ) you can just do the compounding and polishing and skip the swirl removel part . this is do to the way the light reflects bck off the panels . on dark colors you will want to do all 3 steps .
when your finished wash the car off and all the jams also . then if you want you can use a product like a detail spray . do not wax the car untill you know the finish is totaly cured . you can tell then it is cured by taking your finger nail and pushing into the cars finish if it leaves a mark your finish is not cured yet .

another reason i like the presta system is that it's a water based product . being a water based product it does not give you a false shine like petroleum based compounds and polishes will . it also cleans out of jams much easier than a petroleum product will and if your a body and paint shop there is never any fish eyes you have to worry about .
Old 07-31-2012, 09:55 AM
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What's the presta system, a product name or a process?
Old 07-31-2012, 12:26 PM
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Glassurit 22

Thank you for a very thorough reply. You made some very good points.

John B.
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:36 PM
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presta is a polishing system kind of like mothers and alike so it would be a product line . only 100% better in many ways than the other systems out there .
buffing a single stage you do the same way as you would a base clear finish .
i have found from hairing detailers they maybe geat at detailing but they know nothing about new finishes and tend to do more harm to new paint then good . they also take forever to buff out a new finish . the buffer /detailer i have now has been with me for just over 10 years he came out of 17 years of detailing only and tops in his field . i take him to school with me every year for 4 day training course .
you can google presta products . they have starter kits that will give you what you will need to get your cars new finish buffed .
Old 07-31-2012, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
presta is a polishing system kind of like mothers and alike so it would be a product line . only 100% better in many ways than the other systems out there .
buffing a single stage you do the same way as you would a base clear finish .
i have found from hairing detailers they maybe geat at detailing but they know nothing about new finishes and tend to do more harm to new paint then good . they also take forever to buff out a new finish . the buffer /detailer i have now has been with me for just over 10 years he came out of 17 years of detailing only and tops in his field . i take him to school with me every year for 4 day training course .
you can google presta products . they have starter kits that will give you what you will need to get your cars new finish buffed .
Thanks for the feedback. I have a 78-930 with original enamel paint job - no clear coat - and use 3M Imperial hand polish + p21 wax and believe the combo does a good job; so, do you believe presta is better?
Old 08-01-2012, 10:34 AM
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Depends on what you want to do, Miguel. Though Presta makes some fine products, 962 is mainly talking about new paint. No offense, but body shop detailing to finish off a job is different from what real pro detailers do. It takes longer, partially because the paint is harder, but the guys that spend 40hours on a car's paint usually will do a better job than a guy that spends 4 hours.

Buggati handed over their Veyron for detail work to Todd Helme for a reason.

I also use Imperial hand polish. It has oils in it that enrich the paint and brighten it up more than just polishing, from my experience. I also use P21S on occasion, but found very good sealants are now creating wax like depth and gloss to paint, but last a whole lot longer. I actually like the shine of my sealant more than any wax I've ever tried.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:30 PM
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i clearly stated new finishes . how ever in my shop we do detail about 4 to 6 cars a week that have the OE finish still on them . and like i said it's a hole deferent ball game ! one of my detailers just did a 250 ferrari he started it monday and just finished it today . we do not use presta products on old finishes . i only hire top people for my shop our average cost of a detail is 1500 dollars and i pay my detail guys about 22 to 25 an hour . the cost of the 250 ferrari was 2300 dollars for the detail .
once paint is cured it can't get any harder it's cured thats it . that is what cured paint is so there is no deferents between 12 year old cured paint to paint that just cured today it's cured .
this is how paint stages are 1st there is flash , then dry , then cured .
but any product that is a petroleum base is giving you a false shine . you want to bring out the natural shine in a finish not mask it with oil . detailers don't know how to do new finishes because they just don't have to color sand and buff . when a car comes from the factory the mill thickness of the finish is not all that thick . if you try and color sand and buff it like you do to a hand painted finish you will sand and buff right thru the oe finish .
so what i'm saying is every top pro detailer that has come into my shop has had no idea on how to color sand and buff a new paint job . every one has gotten lost and they try and use petroleum based products and the next day you look it the car and you can see all there sanding marks . so on new paint you use a water based product for a reason .
i don't know a todd helme ? he has never come here to detail any of the buggati's that have come thru the doors of my shop .

Last edited by 962porsche; 08-01-2012 at 02:27 PM..
Old 08-01-2012, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguel Antonett View Post
Thanks for the feedback. I have a 78-930 with original enamel paint job - no clear coat - and use 3M Imperial hand polish + p21 wax and believe the combo does a good job; so, do you believe presta is better?
i don't use any 3M products . we do use the P21S products but only on old finishes . when it comes to compounds we only use presta for the reasons i stated . when you compond you don't want a false shine from a oil based product you want to bring out the natural shine of the finish .
Old 08-01-2012, 02:23 PM
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962 is right about the false finishes. Many polishes, including Imperial, cover up flaws. I still like to use it though, as even after detailing my India Red paint to a high standard, the Imperial still adds a bit of pop.

962- in a prior thread, I think we agree the P21S is not really for a daily driver. I was making a bit of a generalization. I don't know enough about your shop to judge the quality of your work. But in my experience, most consumer shops skimp on the finishing off after painting.

Todd Helme owns Bella Machina, a detailing business in FL. He also works for Autopia and a product tester for a couple brands, including Meguiars. He's a bit of a legend in the detailing community and details cars for customers all over the world. He's beyond anal about what he does, but he does it right. Chances are pretty good that the instructors at the detailing classes you go to, got instruction for him.

I've been following Todd for a few years, but never saw his work in person. Last year, I went to a Festivals of Speed event and there was this Bugatti SS Veyron there, clearcoat over carbon fiber. Unbelievable finish, even by super exotic standards. Turns out Todd detailed the thing in the days prior to the show- a Bugatti USA /Meguiars joint. Here's a link:

Bella Macchina: Bugatti Veyron Super Sport detailed by Bella Macchina with Meg's

Anyway, different paints react differently to different products and we all have varying levels of what we feel is perfection. Miguel, there is a saying... "You don't know what you don't know until you know it". Most people don't know what is possible with old paint and a good detail. Imperial and P21S is the tip of the iceberg, but most people are not crazy enough to spend $1000+ for a detail or spend their nights and weekends perfecting their paint. I'm one of those crazies...
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:07 AM
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from your last replys i know you do know detailing !
in my body shop we only do top end cars that is it . when we detail cars the hole car gets detailed chassis and all . i installed a lift in the detail shop some the guys can detail the undersides of the cars also . we have many 1st places in concourses my self with one of my cars i have put the car in 53 shows and have 52 1st in class and best of show trophies .
the person that drives a boxter or 944 in no way will spend the kind of monsy i charge for a detail . it's for the person that owns the 200K plus cars .
buying paint work and detailing work is the same as buying wine . you can buy wine in a box or spend god knows how much . it all will get you drunk !
Old 08-02-2012, 05:38 AM
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ONLY 52 wins in 53 events??! Good to know I am conversing with someone that actually knows their *****.

I'm by no means an expert, but I am a detailing geek. Love working on my cars and detailing is my Zen time. Wish I had more time to do it, but wife, kid, job, lower back... My neighbors see me washing cars in the dark, or detailing my wheel wells, and think I'm a bit nuts.

I think if people quit looking for the easy fix, spent the money on quality products and equipment, even the 944 guys (a very hands-on bunch)would be willing to spend a weekend to make their cars look great. Well, at least far better than what a wax and elbow grease will get you.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:22 AM
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962 & Gorilla, I am fascinating and learning a lot from your exchange of emails... however, all that I'm trying to do is to detail one of my cars that has an original enamel paint job which is 30+ years old... I work in my garage on my cars and also pretty anal about my work mechanical and cosmetic. So, the original 78-930 is my jewel, not a $200K+ car but priceless to me.
I'll definitely try the Presta products; bur Gorilla, what's the sealer brand you reffer to on your reply, I'll like to try that one also.
Please keep in mind that this enamel paint is 30+ years old. So, what's the best combo to use? I rather do it by hand.
Thank you guys!
Old 08-02-2012, 09:42 AM
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i hate to say it being that i do love the 944's i own 11 of them right now along with 5 other porsche models . but the 944 guys a the cheapest owners out there . they will spend a dollar to save a dime .
Old 08-03-2012, 04:34 AM
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i hate to say it being that i do love the 944's i own 11 of them right now along with 5 other porsche models . but the 944 guys a the cheapest owners out there . they will spend a dollar to save a dime .
What does that have to do with the intent of the thread?
Old 08-03-2012, 05:05 AM
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about the same as you highjacking wndsnd's posting !
but if you read gorillafoots post were he stated obout 944 guy !
Old 08-03-2012, 06:12 AM
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Well, well, well, now I know were NOT go for cordial assistance, as expected from the rest of fellow Pelicanees... I'm out of this one...
Thanks anyway!
Old 08-03-2012, 07:17 AM
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there is no reason to be like that !
as you know many times what a posting start out to be is nothing were they ends up !
now it may offend some for what i said about 944 owners but non the less i'm one .
but get this from monday it is now friday . i have had two 944 owners come into the shop .
the 1st one came in this spring looking to have his timeing belt done . i gave him a price of 1100 dollars to do the job . he told me he have owned the car for 3 years and has not had the belt replaced . i told him because you have no paper work on when the belt was done do not drive the car at all intil it is done . need less to say he has been driving the car almost every day . so the car gets towed in and the owner now wants me to do to belt after it broke .
do you think this motor is any good now ? he was to cheap to do the belt now he will need a motor .
2nd 944 owner this week last year i gave him a estimate for a complete paint job on his car . it was like i cut his heart out when i gave him the price . i told him take it to macco if you only want a 2K paint job well he found some guy that did the car for 2500 dollars . great good for him . so in the mean time he had a fender bender and needs a new frender . so he comes back to my shop for another estimate . i have many 944 parts cars so i told him the frnder cost is what the insurance co offered 175 for lkq . he then wants to make money off what the insurance co is paying or of i could buff out his hole car for him there is way to much orange peal and 3 runs in the paint job the guy did .
so the 1st thing is why are most 944 owners always looking for the cut rate deal ?
then why for a 1149.93 fender replacement would i want to kick back money or color sand and buff the hole car for free ?
when the insurance co is not even paying me my 125 an hour labor rate they are only paying 57 an hour . of should i give a 1500 dolar color sand and buff when the cost of the repair doesn't even come close to that .
i get this crap from most of the 944 owners that come here .
this is just a little of what i as a shop owner goes thru with 944 owners .
Old 08-03-2012, 09:42 AM
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Wow. that took a surreal turn. Well, I'm sure Miguel is still monitoring the thread, so I'll make my comments.

1. If you want to see true unruliness, check out "winders" posts. This is nothing.

2. And this is a long one. We had a thread on this forum titled "when to wax after paint". I suggest you read the whole thread. The OP took my suggestions on products, but did not follow directions and in the end was not impressed. Blackfire Wet Diamond All finish Paint Protection is my sealant and it's held in very high regard by top detailers. It will give you a shine rivaling the best wax and will last a good 6 months in the worst conditions, but there is no magic in a bottle. It's doesn't hide swirlmarks, does not flatten the paint to a mirror finish and is not a polish, though it does deepen the paint quite a bit.

3. And I am a 944 guy. Well, 951 really, but I love the platform, and yes, there are many people who can't afford them and should be driving Escorts.

4. Miguel, handpolishing is a waste of your time and back muscles. Get a Porter Cable Orbital polisher, the right pads, some compound, polish and Blackfire. It's virtually fool proof now- you will not burn the paint and it will look soooo much better. See the other thread I refered to for my product suggestions.

5. Last year, I undertook the wet sanding of my 23 year old paint, then compounded and polished it. It looked pretty darn good prior, but i wanted to experiment. The paint looked BETTER THAN BRAND NEW and a HUGE difference from what I was able to do with just a polish and wax. No one believes me when I tell them it's original paint. That says a lot about Porsche quality, but reiterates my point that washing and waxing will leave you with an average finish, regardless of the wax you use.
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Last edited by GorillaFoot; 08-03-2012 at 10:19 AM..
Old 08-03-2012, 09:54 AM
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I haven't checked in for a couple of days...

However,

I was questioning Polishing out a new paint job. It looks like I am using Glasuritt 22 with Porsche962's good suggestions, and I was wondering if I was to polish it out after it was laid down, and how long to wait.

I am working on the project, am not a professional, but have used other brands in the past.

Thank you all for your passion!

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Old 08-03-2012, 11:55 AM
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