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Blending in widebody arches

Can anybody give me some advice on blending in welded on rear arches,I have the weld ground down as good as possible but they do need some filler.
What block should I use flexi or rigid and should I go up towards the roof when sanding by hand or across the joint

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Old 08-03-2012, 12:56 AM
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I worked my RS width flares with a flexible curved block and sanding pad (Durablock) and went up and down rather than along the curve as this was causing a kind of "grooving", dunno how to better explain...
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:27 AM
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hi john . do you have the picture of ur flexible curved block ? can you post pls . thanx
Old 08-03-2012, 04:03 AM
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because it panel is a compound curve there is not just one block you would need of have to use . the 3 we use most on 911 QTR's and fenders are .
# 05792 half round pad
# 05791 hookit disc hand pad
and the 11" round block in the 5 piece dura block kit .
you can find them at auto body tool mart .com

when ever you sand you want to cross your sanding pattern . you would sand in a X pattern .
Old 08-03-2012, 05:03 AM
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thanks i have bought various hook & loop blocks,but to get the arch curve correct i need to go up towards the window opening right ?
I get the x pattern bit
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:05 AM
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i'm not sure what you mean about going up towards the window opening ?
but if your talking about having to sand up and down that way than yes .
but because of the shape of the panel you will be sanding in every direction . but always crossing your sanding patterns .
it's doen more by feal that a true sted fast rule .
Old 08-03-2012, 05:22 AM
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where the weld line is there is a ridge ,im not good enough with lead or a dolly to get it completely out so it has to be filled do I sand against the ridge or across it to start off with
ps thanks for all your replys
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:28 AM
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with the quality of todays leads they are out we only use then if the car has a lead OE seam . other than that being the quality of todays body filler are better than the leads you can buy now quality body fillers are the way to go .
i would hammer and dolly the highs and lows out 1st . that is pretty much a must .
then with 36 to 40 grit paper on a block start your sanding along the contour of the welded seam . the 1st coat of filler is just to get a basic shape of the panel . then on the next coat after you have the 1st one sanded down you will want to start your true shaping with that coat . you would want to sand at a 45 degree angle to the welded seam for that and cross your patterns .
Old 08-03-2012, 05:47 AM
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ok got it thanks again all
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kj9438 View Post
hi john . do you have the picture of ur flexible curved block ? can you post pls . thanx

Hi KJ

Dura-Block - Sanding Blocks Available in Oz in decent body supply places. Not cheap, but they will last the amateur a lifetime of projects. Buy a basic 'kit' to save cost.

As 962 noted - I used more than one. The "taco" shaped one is super useful along with an assortment of flat and curved bocks. I also made a few of my own out of scrap packaging foam for a few spots - they don't last long but do the job.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:12 PM
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thanx john . i just got dura round one , next will be cured one and tear drop one .
Old 08-03-2012, 10:17 PM
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some progress
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:06 PM
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how does it feal when you run your hand over it ?
if you want to find your highs and lows put a light coat of spray guide coat on it . also on your last coat you should use a tight coat of a product like USC iceing . it's a extra smooth body filler . it will fill any little pin holes you have in the filler .
Old 08-04-2012, 05:17 PM
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no ripples ,just where it meets the rear light that needs a light skim of filler,that is my guide coat i will go over it today I only had a can of white primer lying about so used it.Using using a criss cross sanding pattern and different shape blocks really worked .
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:10 PM
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like John F stated some times you can make your own sanding pads out of things like foam .
we are doing a resto in a older 2nd gen SL benz . the bottoms of the panels have body lines that run the hole side of the car so we got some round foam that fits the shape and use that for our sanding pads for the area. we also will take any sanding blocks we may have and grind or cut them to a shape we need to do a job . blocks are cheap so if you need to cut one up to do a job it's no big deal you can just buy a new one to replace the one you cut up .
Old 08-05-2012, 07:21 AM
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A couple of areas that were tricky when saving my 73 from the crusher were

1. The area at the highest point of the flare to body joint. The flare interrupts the body line briefly at this point, but it is really easy to end up flattening it out too much and too long

2. Where the flare line rejoins the body line at the rear midway down the engine compartment opening. (I don't know how else to describe it).

It is one thing to get the joint smooth but make sure the contour is to your liking from a distance. I had a hard time finding a picture when I was doing mine. Here is one for reference. Yours is turning out well.

Be careful not to lose the body line and mistakenly blend the flare into the roof curve. The car has a shoulder that could easily disappear with too much filler and shaping.

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Last edited by wayner; 08-23-2012 at 12:30 PM..
Old 08-23-2012, 12:27 PM
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Let me know if you need more shots. I tried to pick a few that highlighted that area. I found it difficult to pick up the right lines with so many reflecting curves.

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Old 08-23-2012, 12:45 PM
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Wayne thanks for the help and photos ive been at it all night and know exactly which area you mean by the engine lid opening its been puzzling me all night.I have been working on the door gap today and lower sill repair.I have really tried my best not to use filler but it needs a skim.Plan is to get it shaped and blended this weekend and get a coat of epoxy primer on it to seal the metal.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:03 PM
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what happend to the door gap it's wrong . on porsche 911's the gap should be bigger it the top than it is at the bottom of the door to QTR . they do that for a reason . was that car carshed at some point and over pulled of did some one just not know how the gaps should be . when people try and make them the same at shows i take points away for that .
Old 08-23-2012, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
what happend to the door gap it's wrong . on porsche 911's the gap should be bigger it the top than it is at the bottom of the door to QTR . they do that for a reason . was that car carshed at some point and over pulled of did some one just not know how the gaps should be . when people try and make them the same at shows i take points away for that .
not finished yet still messing about with spacers ,ive read you say its 6mm at the top and 4mm at the bottom thats what i am aiming at. Taking a door on and off by yourself is a ballache

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Old 08-24-2012, 01:10 AM
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