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wndsnd's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Amesbury, MA
Posts: 287
Glasurit Sealer 285-38

Well, This is where I am.

I took the car to bare metal because there was extensive rust to be fixed and lots of paint build up from previous owners.

I used etching primer over the bare steel.

I am now using Glasurit 285-60 HS Primer over the Etch, I intend to do finish bodywork with fillers over the 285-60

I bought 285-38 as a sealer after the 285-60 is this a good choice? I could only get white, but that should be ok as I will be finishing in Glasurit 22 in a yellow.

Should I just go from the etching primer to sealer to paint in the trunks and engine compartment. It doesn't make sense to use a HS primer like the 285-60 in these area.

And now my most stupid question. The 285-38 Tech sheet says it is a non-sanding sealer. Does that mean I can spray it over old paint like under the hoods without sanding, or that I can spray the 22 over the sealer without sanding. I would think I would sand it anyway for best adhesion.

This shows etching primer on everything but hood so far.

Rear etch with 285-60 applied to Trunk

Truck is etched and the bottom pan sealed with POR - This is where I want to go to the 285-38 and then color.
1973 914-6 Conversion
2.7, crank fired, twin plug.
Old 08-03-2012, 12:21 PM
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962porsche's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,193
i would not do my body work over the 285-60 . though you can i would not for many reasons . the biggest is you really don't want all the bind up of primer the 2nd is you are opening your self to make the body work come out wavy . the reason is the mill thickness of a filler frimer . you have to feather edge it back very far to not get waves . also you will get better adhesion to the etch primer .
it's best to do the body work over a e-primer and then dubble prime . by doing it that way your getting the most out of your filler primers .
you should not just top coat over a e-primer you can do a wet on wet with sealers .
that would be hit the e-primer with 320 and or a red pad . then if you have brake thrus bigger than a dime you can spot in the areas with more etch primer . you do not have to recoat the hole area with e-primer . then let the e-primer flash off for 10 to 15 minutes and go right over the top with a single coat of sealer . do not do more then one coat of a sealer . then let that flash off for about 15 minutes or so and go right over that with you 22 line top coats .
you can use two coats max of the 285-38 one just on any brake thrus to body filler and one over the rest of the panel .
i would opt to use the 285-60 tinted as a sealer with the 22 line . most of the time that is what i pick for over alls . i would tint it with a white and you would end up with a very very light color gray almost white or you could use a blue to better match the top coat color .
i just have two always mix on my mixxing machine one with black and the other with white . for dark , med and light colors . glasurit covers so good i never found a need to use the sand topcoat colors .
mixed 1st 1part 285-60 to 1part 22 line straight tints then it's the same mix 2 :1 to 30% with the same hardener and reducers . lays down like glass !
as for por products i hate them there is nothing i like about them at all ! they don't even like to be recoated with there own products . you would have been better off to just use your etching primer on the floor pan . if it's a chromated product that is all you would need .
about 5 weeks ago i had a 911 in the shop that another shop put the car in there lift and dented to floor pan the last shop that did the work about 8 years back used pro15 on the floor when we went to recoat it with more por15 it lifted like we used paint stripper on it .
i have no idea what putting glasurit over the top will do or how long it will last .
i tried there crap some years back and when we got a wet coat of 55 line base color on it it also lifted all along the rockers of a 912 we were doing . when we tried to recoat that it also lifted around every place we sanded thru to bare metal . no i hate the crap ! your better off with rust-shield . it does the same thing as por . they have better tech support and it's half the price along with it comes in just about any color you can think of or mix .
did i bash pro enough yet ? or should i keep going i could !
no you do have to sand the areas 1st . non sanding meens you don't have to sand the sealer .
i'm looking at the under side of the trunk lid and thinking your staying or hopeing your staying with that color . on some thing like the under side of the trunk lid all you have to do is 320 , 400 , 500 or red pad any one would be ok . then seal and top coat . again if you have brake thrus bigger than a dime to bare metal spot the areas with some e-primer 1st then seal and top coat .
did i miss any thing ? there are no stupid questions but the one that is not asked !
your doing it in yellow . what a shame ! there are so many yellow ones out there .
Old 08-03-2012, 06:21 PM
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Registered User
wndsnd's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Amesbury, MA
Posts: 287
Well it's too late now for the POR!

I will call them and see what they recommend -

When you are talking e-primer, do you mean etching primer or epoxy primer. I thought that you can't use polyester fillers over etching primer.
1973 914-6 Conversion
2.7, crank fired, twin plug.
Old 08-03-2012, 06:37 PM
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