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Steps to paint this 356? Help

Could you please tell me the steps to paint this car.
The PO stripped it to bare metal but never finished, he stored it in a garage for years.
As you can see there is surface rust in all the body.
What are the steps to follow?
What materials should be used ?
How do you protect the body to avoid the surface rust to reappear again and ruin the paint?

I hope that 962porsche gives me an answer as he is very knowledgeable on this matter.

Thanks



Old 08-15-2012, 10:09 AM
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i am working right now so i will have to get back to you when i'm finish up for the day .
Old 08-15-2012, 01:42 PM
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962porsche
Thanks, waiting for your answer.
No hurry, when you have time. Before painting the car I want to get all the info I can get.
Old 08-15-2012, 04:34 PM
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1st what is your plans for the car .
are you going to drive it almost every day ?
only on nice weekends ?
are you going to do car shows ?
if your going to show it will you be only doing shows ?


then how far has the ruct gone in the car . the hole car is rusting from what i can see .
but will it sand off with 80 grit DA sand paper on a da sander set on it grinding mode ?
if not you will have to have the car blasted with a fine sand of plastic media .

after the car is back to clean metal you will want to use a etch or epoxy primer and spray all the bare metal with it . use a chromated E-prime only two coats max of E-primer .
you then can do your body work over the top of the E-primer .

when your doing your body work try not to do more than one or two panels at a time . that way you will have less metal open ti the air that will start to rust again . once your finished with your body work spray on another coat or two at most of your E-primer again chromated . then your filler primer over the top of that . you can do that as a wet on wet application just let the products flash off for 10 to 15 minutes between the coats . the more coats you apply the longer the flash times will need to be so by your last coat of primer you may want to wait about 15 to 20 minutes for proper flashing . you will know when it's flashed off right by the shin of your primer . it will have a dull look to it and not look wet any more .
if you put to much primer on at one time (to many wet coats over the top of each other ) it will peal or delaminate down the road of just give bad over all adhesion and chip very ez .

then when your car is all primed you can then dry or wet sand it for sealers and top coats .
Old 08-15-2012, 04:56 PM
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962porsche
thanks.
Car is going to be driven only on weekends, not a show car but would like to have a very good paint. The looks of the car depend on this paint and bodywork. The rust is mostly supperficial, I found only one part that is pitted, one corner of the engine shelf.
I am not looking for an original car, if there are better materials to paint and protect it I want to use those.
My problem, down here we have very good craftsmen, but sometimes they lack the knowledge of new materials and techniques.
Old 08-16-2012, 10:47 AM
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i know about the craftsman . two of the guys that work for me are from mexico . one works in the race fab shop and the other is in the body shop . Javier is very good at working metal but when he 1st can here the products he was used to were 15 years behind what we have here . the techniques are the same for working metal so the only deferents are what your going to use over the tops of the metal .
what paint system can you get in your area ? can you get limco , RM or glasurit ?
Old 08-16-2012, 04:49 PM
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There is a BASF Mexico, I will call them and see what they are selling down here.
If I cannot find that brand here I can import it from the USA. It will be a bit more expensive but the results will pay for itself, I hope.
You are aware of what my problem is, good craftsmen but no availability of new products.
Old 08-16-2012, 06:44 PM
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i do know they have BASF down there but as long as there is a place to buy it hear you you will be half way there with having good quality products . the other is check out autobodytoolmart.com will they ship out side the states ?

were you were saying you have some rust pitting how big of areas are they ? if there not very big you can get a little zender speed blaster for about 50 dollars . with coal slag blasting media or better yet 001 sand you can buy at a local masonry supply store and because it's just sand not coal dust there is no HAS MAT you will have to worry about .
Old 08-17-2012, 04:55 AM
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BASF is selling Glasurit in Mexico.
Old 08-20-2012, 12:28 PM
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are you painting the car white again ? is that the oe color that the car came with ?
if so check out the RM line of BASF it's the same paint but it will or should be cheaper ( lower cost ) in RM . the reason is that glasurit has the same price for all there colors no matter if it's a red or white were RM has deferent price codes for there colors . if thats the case were your painting it white you will pay less for white than you would with glasurit . but if your going to paint it in a red , yellow or orange than you will pay less if you go with glasurit . like i said it's all the same urethane components that make up the paint . rm is just marketed for the US and asian markets were glasurit is marketed for the euro market . so do pricing on the two lines .
Old 08-20-2012, 02:14 PM
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The original color was champagne yellow.
I still do not decide which color to paint.
Silver is one of the colors I could choose.


Old 08-22-2012, 09:37 AM
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i would think about keeping it the OE color ???????????????????????
not that it's such a great color but it will hold the value of the car more .
Old 08-22-2012, 06:14 PM
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Found out that the original color was Togo Brown and somewhere in time it was repainted Champagne Yellow. Togo brown is a color I would not keep.
I really do not plan to sell this car soon, so the resale value is not too important.
Just want a very nice car to own.

Old 08-24-2012, 09:51 AM
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