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Question Door Jam Lock Plate

Not sure what to call it...so apologies if the title is misleading.

Yesterday I took my '81 SC to the bodyshop for some rust repair, fitment of the RS bumpers, and complete respray (wohooo! )

I have a question regarding the back side of the door jam (part attached to the quarter panel). How is it supposed to look like? I see in the '81 that whatever part was there (inside when looking through the wheel well) looks like it rusted away. I need to know what part that is so that I can try to find it and take it to the shop guy.

Thank you in advanced for your help!!



The area circled in red (this is passenger side, but both side look the same):


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Old 09-23-2012, 08:48 AM
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Cool

Photos of what this area looks like in your car will also help. Thank you!
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:41 AM
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I had to make a replacement in my 66 swb restoration. Some pictures below that might help you see what you need. Not difficult to fabricate if you have a few basic metalworking tools and a MIG. Other than getting one off another car, I know of no source of replacements. It's important that you recover the two captive nuts you can see in the photos from the old lock plate, and that the plate with these nuts is free to move under the new cover plate or you'll have no adjustment option for your door striker plate. The base plate is attached to the B post with two (or three in some cases) spot welds. Locate these from the outside (door side) of the B post, drill them out and then you can make all the repairs on the bench. Then use the two (or three!) holes you drilled to re-install with plug welds.

If all this is gobbledegook to you, take it to your shop man and he should understand. If he doesn't take your car away!

Mick






Last edited by MTemp; 09-24-2012 at 10:38 AM..
Old 09-24-2012, 10:31 AM
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Outstanding!!! Thank you!! Clearly understood what I need to do, thank you!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTemp View Post
I had to make a replacement in my 66 swb restoration. Some pictures below that might help you see what you need. Not difficult to fabricate if you have a few basic metalworking tools and a MIG. Other than getting one off another car, I know of no source of replacements. It's important that you recover the two captive nuts you can see in the photos from the old lock plate, and that the plate with these nuts is free to move under the new cover plate or you'll have no adjustment option for your door striker plate. The base plate is attached to the B post with two (or three in some cases) spot welds. Locate these from the outside (door side) of the B post, drill them out and then you can make all the repairs on the bench. Then use the two (or three!) holes you drilled to re-install with plug welds.

If all this is gobbledegook to you, take it to your shop man and he should understand. If he doesn't take your car away!

Mick





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Old 09-24-2012, 12:21 PM
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or you could just do it right and buy the lock pillar from the dealer,,,it appears yours has been spliced anyhow,,,great time to correct the car
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:00 AM
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That was my initial question... if this part could be bought separately or if it was part of the door jam/lock pillar... From your post, it is part of the door jam... let me see how much those go for...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemane500 View Post
or you could just do it right and buy the lock pillar from the dealer,,,it appears yours has been spliced anyhow,,,great time to correct the car
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:11 AM
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jdill
 
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when the striker plate is rotted , the lock pillar usually is also,,,its better to adress it now if your bodyman is capable of putting it in
Leavitt Street Auto Body
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemane500 View Post
when the striker plate is rotted , the lock pillar usually is also,,,its better to adress it now if your bodyman is capable of putting it in
Leavitt Street Auto Body
Alejandro can do the work, no concern there... I just need to find the part at a decent price.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:19 AM
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the part from porsche lists at 200, shop cost is around 160 if thats any help aftermarkets are available but i would not recommend Leavitt Street Auto Body
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemane500 View Post
the part from porsche lists at 200, shop cost is around 160 if thats any help aftermarkets are available but i would not recommend Leavitt Street Auto Body
100.00 from here: lock pillar. LOCKPOST. exterior panelling rear (COUPE. /L.) for Porsche 911 (1987, 1988, 1989) (96450204100)
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:16 AM
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Question

89.00 from our host... Has anyone ordered this one?? Fitment issues?

Pelican Parts - Product Information: SIC-502-041-04
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:50 AM
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probably doesn't matter where the part comes from, it will still need some fitting and trimming. I believe the ones I installed were Stoddard... aftermarket anyway. Both sides went in just fine.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78SCRSMAN View Post
probably doesn't matter where the part comes from, it will still need some fitting and trimming. I believe the ones I installed were Stoddard... aftermarket anyway. Both sides went in just fine.
Thank you Derek. The ones that Pelican is selling for 89.00 are from Stoddard, so that is cool. But I spoke with Alejandro (body shop guy) and he tells me that there is no need to replace the part and that he can repair the rusted plate with the above approach as the rest of the part is solid.

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Old 09-27-2012, 09:45 AM
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