Paint for engine compartment

[MetalDoc]

Hi,

I'm putting my SC back together. I have the interior out, windows removed and the body is finished with base coat clear. I pressure washed and cleaned the engine compartment, which looks pretty good for 30 year old paint. I think it would look even better if I painted it. I am wondering what paint I could use if I painted it by brush, instead of spray. I'm thinking epoxy primer plus a topcoat or a one coat of paint. I don't really want to wait until it warms up to spray. The shop is heated so there is no problem with getting the paint to dry. Please let me know what paint would brush on well and how much would I need to thin it.

Thanks,
Paul

[962porsche]

spray it !

[daleflesburg]

Are you going to reinstall the sound pad on the forward wall (firewall)? What color are you going to use? Is the bottom of the engine lid painted with the exterior paint? Some people use black in the engine compartment. Flat black is also used often. So it depends. However, since the body is already painted and clear coated, I would brush paint it with flat black rustoleum. Unless you totally strip the paint out of the engine compartment, it is probably still coated with factory undercoat, and spraying just will run the risk of getting overspray where you do not want it, and it is not going to look much better than brushing the paint on.

[Brian 162]

I used a rattle can.

[daleflesburg]

I used Rustoleum bright Red (amazing match to Guards Red) and brushed it on.

[MetalDoc]

Hi,

Thanks for the input. I know everyone likes pictures so here are a few so you can see what I'm up to.






I have some paint mixed to match the smuggler's box.


FYI. The engine lid is painted on the inside so it's the same as the exterior.

I appreciate the input.
Paul

[D911SC]

In my opinion you're in a great position to spray the engine bay. You won't regret it.

Personally I think you need to do a 2 pack there. Too many chemicals such as oils and fuel that can strip back a single part paint.

I did what you are doing. My process was to clean throughly, rub back with a 3M red pad then apply a light coat of primer (to ensure proper bonding). I fixed up the stone guard with Wurth SKS then color. Here's a link to what i did (with pics):

http://project911sc.wordpress.com/2012/01/16/engine-bay-respray/

[MetalDoc]

Thanks for the link to your webpage.

[500_19B]

On the one hand, it's only the engine bay... However, the amount of work to get it ready for paint is extensive, so you may as well spend a little bit more and spray on a quality activated automotive paint.

I agree with D911SC, a non-activated paint will always be susceptible to damage from the various chemicals that may be encountered in that environment. I primed and then used Glasurit 55 line base and clear on mine and am very happy with the result:

[A horse with no name]

An engine compartment done well is a big compliment to your overall job; I personally would take the time to do it right.

Maybe something of interest to you:

Aircraft- Automotive paint stripper works very well, and is fast for all the tin work. It looks good finished in Satin Black...

Good prep work is a must:
Clean prior to priming, including before the top coat, with a Silicon- Wax- Grease remover which is available at all automotive paint shops.

A good looking finished product can be obtained with 'rattle can' - as stated - IF it is prepped and cleaned well.

Some use ' black frame paint' which also works well, but it should be sprayed. Most auto parts shops also have a clear 'gravel guard' coating in a 'rattle can' that you paint on the top coat when dry. It will give you that factory look in certain locations through out the car such as around the lip of your wheel wells.

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by 500_19B

On the one hand, it's only the engine bay... However, the amount of work to get it ready for paint is extensive, so you may as well spend a little bit more and spray on a quality activated automotive paint.

I agree with D911SC, a non-activated paint will always be susceptible to damage from the various chemicals that may be encountered in that environment. I primed and then used Glasurit 55 line base and clear on mine and am very happy with the result:

NICE! Congrats - Well done

[mreid]

I painted mine with a foam brush using Eastwood urethane. It is very thin and requires three coats with about 20 minutes between coats, but works really well after proper prep.