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Question Rolling 911 Front Fender Lips

I know th trick using a baseball bat to roll the fender lips. But since I have the front fenders off the car and have yet to paint them, I like to roll them before painting.

Any tricks to accomplish this task without special tools and while the fenders are not mounted?
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:13 AM
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only if your good with a hammer and dolly .
i have many time to give a more OE look to the wheel opening tack welded a piece of 1/8" round stock to the back side of the wheel opening and then roll the opening around it . that way you don't have the sharp folded edge as to get with a bat or fender roller .
Old 09-23-2013, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
only if your good with a hammer and dolly .
i have many time to give a more OE look to the wheel opening tack welded a piece of 1/8" round stock to the back side of the wheel opening and then roll the opening around it . that way you don't have the sharp folded edge as to get with a bat or fender roller .
Well, I know what a hammer and dolly are. But that is about it.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:16 AM
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if you hold the dolly lightly on the front side of the fender and slowly and lightly hit the edge of the wheel opening then you can roll the fenders in like that . just go slow and roll the lip a little at a time . it's the same way you would put a door skin on .
if you were in the area i would just show you how to do it it's really very ez once you know the in's and out's of doing it .
there is no better way to learn then just doing it .
Old 09-23-2013, 09:18 AM
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I do have a couple extra fenders I could practice on. So I'll give it a shot.

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:45 AM
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Re:
tack welded a piece of 1/8" round stock to the back side of the wheel opening and then roll the opening around it.

Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that.
Old 09-23-2013, 09:54 AM
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you will see it's not that hard to do .
just go real slow and don't try to move allot of it at one time . just start at one end and lightly tapping so you hardly see the lip starting to roll move down the wheel opening .
be sure to only hit the face of the hammer to straight on to the flat lip of the wheel opening holding the dolly lightly on the face of the fender .
just keep working it slowly your arm will start killing you after a short time so then stop . if you keep going you will hit it in the wrong place or to hard and kink the out side face of the fender .
if you know any one or have a door skin hammer they will work the best but a hammer with a little bit of a rounded face will work best but not some thing as rounded as a ball peen hammer .

as for a piece of 1/16 or 1/8 round stock tack welded to the back side of the wheel opening that works great . once you do the roll it adds more strength to the wheel opening than it just being hammered flat .

Last edited by 962porsche; 09-23-2013 at 10:22 AM..
Old 09-23-2013, 10:18 AM
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Here is a picture of when I did mine, and the thread where I documented it (Scroll to the bottom of that thread)


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Old 11-25-2013, 05:42 PM
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Interesting approach. I like it.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:30 PM
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I'm considering this to run wider tires but I'm not sure if my fenders have already been modified by the PO. It's an 82 SC I've had since 2000 but I've never compared the fender lips to another car. It did come to me with 17" wheels, so it is possible that the fenders were rolled or cut before I got the car. Can anyone tell from these pics? There is a horizontal part of the fender lip towards the inside of the car...it doesn't roll up at all but it's very narrow and also looks pretty uneven in its width, especially at the top of the front fender where it almost disappears completely.





I saw this picture on Rennlist (of a 2000 car though) and it made me think my car might have already had some extensive trimming if it started out at all like that.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:27 PM
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they have been trimmed back
Old 01-19-2014, 07:58 AM
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I posted the picture of the rolled lip above (welded 1/4 inch rod)

Here is what an unmodified lip looks like (the red part in front of the rear tire on grey primer)

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Old 01-19-2014, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Shift View Post
Re:
tack welded a piece of 1/8" round stock to the back side of the wheel opening and then roll the opening around it.

Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that.
+1

I agree; the 1/8th inch round stock approach sounds like a great idea. at that thickness, the rod is pretty flexible and should allow the rolling to follow the stock lines. then tap tap tap on around. I guess you would only need about 16 inches of roll. plus, there would be enough room in there to spray in some paint and what not to help prevent rusting in that area as im sure water and grime will probably nestle up in there.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:51 PM
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i'm doing another 911 today this way with the 1/8" sound stock .
I started the job yesterday and did the front wheel opening today i'm starting on the rears .
after you clean all the crap off the back side of the wheel lip down to clean bare metal .
yes coat it with some weld primer on the rod and the back of the wheel opening were the rod will sit . do your tack welds . you don't need allot of welds to hold it in place .
to get a nice roll to the 1/8" round stock I bent the roll in it by bending it around a metal 30 gal oil drum . you can use any thing big and round about the same roundness of the wheel opening .
from the back side I then just put tack welds from the round stock to the sheet metal of the panels . a weld every 3" works well welding more to the round stock 1st then the sheet metal it's self . walking the weld onto the sheet metal from the round stock .
by doing it that way you will not over heat the sheet metal panel at all leaving big ass weld marks on the sheet metal .
I then trimmed off a little of the lip it's self to make it smaller so it can roll over the 1/8" round stock with out hitting the back of the wheel opening with the edge of the lip .
I then hammered and dollied the rest of what I did not trim over the round stock .
then with a cheap little paint brush from home depot I brushed some etch primer in all the gaps from the round stock to the sheet metal .
after it's dry hit it with a red pad and spray some chip guard over the area .
there is now a strong 1/8" lip for the wheel openings that are strong and if you don't tell any one that they are trimmed know one will tell as they look very stock .
Old 01-23-2014, 03:55 AM
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Following this thread with interest as I need to roll the lips on my '89 project. Now, I was planning on just rolling them into a relatively tight "U" and was as concerned as the U creating a mud/water/grime trap as anything and was even going to drill a few drain holes to help out.

My worry with the wire approach is that it would form a guaranteed water/grime trap that would definitely rust, much as I have seen this problem on older British sports cars.

I presume I use stainless stock, zinc the crap out of it prior, do the roll over and then seal the edge? Anyone care to comment on the rustworthiness of the wire approach?

Dennis
Old 01-26-2014, 08:55 AM
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Dennis
your worrying about some thing that is totally pointless to worry about !
I tend to wash out the wheel wells of my cars . that is I take the hose and spray the water up under the wheel wells just to wash out any sand from places like the ends of the rockers were the dirt tends to collect .
you would never want to use stainless with the steel that the car is built with .
zincing the hell out of any thing is also pointless . more is in no way better ! all you need is one covering coat of a zinc primer .
more does nothing at all .
there is a product called seam sealer (use a two part seam sealer ) that you would use the fill the little gap between the round stock and the back side of the panel .
there are many ways to skin a cat using some 1/8" round stock is just one of many ways to trim back the wheel openings and still give the panel the same strength .
Old 01-27-2014, 05:05 AM
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962 wrote a nice description.

When I did mine I used 1/4 inch rod and just bent it into a rough shape over a a tire.
I then clamped and tacked on end, and continued clamping and tacking as it simply fell into shape. No need to be overly accurate on your first bend, as long as the rod doesn't twist, just rolled. It wasn't hard to bend.

I used epoxy paint on the inner lip and let it drip out.
I then used a dab of seam sealer so there is zero chance of water accumulating there.

(post # 8 above)
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:26 PM
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