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Location: Oyster Bay, N.Y.
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Door Jamb repair 1980sc

I would like to repair this rusted section on my passenger door jamb.
I have the paint.

When I remove the rusted area I will need to fill it.
Do I use fiberglass and bondo or are they frowned upon.

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1980 911sc Petrol Blue Metallic Targa, 300,000 + miles
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:56 PM
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i have to ask on just what type of repair are you looking to do ?
do you just want to butter it up for a year or two ?
do you want ot to last 3 to 4 years ?
or do you want to repair it as it was new again ?
Old 09-28-2013, 04:49 AM
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962, I know what you're gonna say, replace the lock post panel ( I think it's called) right?? Which will involve pealing back the quarter lip and drilling out the spot welds to the rocker and vertical lip, right? The rust I see looks more than just a scuff and fill. IMO.
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:59 PM
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i'm asking just what he is looking for because there is some different ways to go about doing this type of fix .

you could go all out and replace the part . but this car from what i'm seeing is not that type of a car . it's just a driver with a not that good of a paint job on it . so i would not go that route with this car right now i would wait untill the car needs a full resto .
i'm thinking he wants to butter it up a bit and slow the rot spot down ?
Old 09-29-2013, 05:18 AM
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Door jamb repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
i have to ask on just what type of repair are you looking to do ?
do you just want to butter it up for a year or two ?
do you want ot to last 3 to 4 years ?
or do you want to repair it as it was new again ?
I would like to stop the rust from progressing and since it is inside the door jamb i guess it does not have to be perfect. I would like it to last at least 5 years.
I do not want to rip out the entire jamb and weld in a new one.

I am not looking to just slop some bondo over it either.

I have a complete set of tools to do the work.
My body work experience is limited just need to know what my options are.
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1980 911sc Petrol Blue Metallic Targa, 300,000 + miles
M&K Pre Muffler + M&K 1 in & 1 out Sport Muffler
Previously owned and rebuilt:
60's VW Bugs, Buses & Ghias
Old 10-11-2013, 09:11 PM
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I would put money on that needing new metal, by the time you grind that back you'd be able to spit through it - if it hasnt already collapsed!

What is the overspray on the tan trim from, judging from the direction of paint peel On the respray line I would say this has already had a fix? It will look pretty grim behind I'm afraid......

This is always so difficult but if you don't do it properly now all you'll have is a big lump of bondo left!

The best place to start is rub it back and post more pics.
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Last edited by strath44; 10-13-2013 at 01:03 PM..
Old 10-13-2013, 12:58 PM
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i'm one to say do the job once and do it right the 1st time. but if you when to do that on this car you will be replacing the outter rocker too at the least .
so this is a cheap out option to get 3 or 4 years out of it .

you will find it very ugly once you remove the paint from the area .
1st pull the door seal /weather strip , remove the stricker, remove the rocker sill cover .
then tape off the outter QTR and mask off the door opening so you don't fill the inside of the car with dust . old bed sheet of big sheet of plastic will work for that .
then with a 3" grinding disc grind off all the finish from the area were the rust is and grind untill you have clean metal 1 inch past were the rust is .
then with a little spot blaster (there about 35 dollars ) sand blast the rust untill is all gone .
then you will find holes from doing so .
at this point i would really need to see the piece when the finish is all ground off the panel to tell you the best cheap way out .
but my guess is there will be some bigger areas of metal rusted away more than just some pin rust holes .
so pull the rear wheel off and get to the back side were you can with the sand blaster .
blast it as clean as you can . and sand it were the blaster can't get to with some 60 or 80 grit
paper .
then cut a piece of thin sheet metal and get some panel weld bong adhesive .
once you have the sheet metal patch cut and bent to fit as best at it can cover the back side with the weld bond adhesive and patch the area from the back . use some sheet metal screws to hold the patch as it dries . once it's dry remove the screws and grind the ooze that pushed through the chracks , holes . then spray a coat of etch primer over the bare metal area topside and the under side .
do your body filler work and then primer and top coat .
this is not the best way to do a repair but it's a little step over what a place like mocca would do .
i almost forget chip guard the underside too when your all finished with the top side . put the wheel back on torque the wheel to spec and drive it .
Old 10-13-2013, 02:16 PM
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Door jamb repair

Thanks for the detailed set of instructions.
I will remove some paint and rust and see how pervasive the corrosion is.

I am hoping it is not extensive.
The car is a 1980sc and was garaged most of its 33 years and it was not driven
in the North East winters.

There is very little signs of rust throughout the vehicle.

The car was repainted about ten years ago.
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1980 911sc Petrol Blue Metallic Targa, 300,000 + miles
M&K Pre Muffler + M&K 1 in & 1 out Sport Muffler
Previously owned and rebuilt:
60's VW Bugs, Buses & Ghias
Old 10-14-2013, 09:34 AM
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