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Brando
 
quattrorunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Las vegas
Posts: 6,170
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Bonding fiberglass

Ok, question I have is if I did use fiberglass flares for my 911 instead of welding metal flares, and used the best adhesive as has been recommended here, I really really don't want to deal with cracks. Could I wait a period of time before painting to allow it to settle before i paint? Is there any way to avoid cracks later?
Is there anything that can be don't to stay off cracks?
Thanks.
Old 10-08-2013, 07:38 AM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
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molding fiberglass to steel and hoping it will not crack is some thing every one worries about .
will it crack or will you see a ghost of the seam later on does not always have to be the case .
it's not really the fact that your bonding two different type a metarials together and they don't expand and contract at the same rate it's more the way you bond then and the prep work you have to do to get a proper long lasting bond .
i have done countless bonds of fiberglass to steel in the past most work out great and do last a long ass time .
my 948 porsche i did flares on over 3 years ago the car gets raced all the time and no cracks or ghosts yet . there are how ever some little star cracks were things from the tires have been kicked up and hit the inner flares but all fiberglass will do that .

you want to step the metal of the panels with about a 2" long step the same thickness of the fiberglass . once the step is done on the steel panels you want to feather edge / knife edge the fiberglass edge down to a point .
then bond the new flares on using a good even bed of adheasive then clamp in place .
let it sit untill it's good and dry about 24 hours .
when you bond the two pieces together don't try and use things like rivets in the panels then leaving them there thinking the rivet will also help to hold the parts together .
the two parts have to floot a little or they will crack at the seam .
a quality adheasive is for allowing the two panels to move a little this is why you want a nice even bed of the bonding adheasive .
once the adheasive drys mix 2/3's of a product like duraglass to 1/3 of a quality body filler and prep the seam so that the adhsive the pushed out from clamping the two together is even with the top of the step in the steel panels . then spread a nice tight coat of the mix filler over the seam .
then if you don't have any of the seam showing go right to the body filler with out the duraglass mixxed in . finish off with a filler primer add 8% flex to the filler primer your using on the seam areas . any bare metal you want to spray a thin coat of etch primer or epoxy primer down 1st but do not get the E-primers on the fiberglass .
as the chromates will eat there way into the fiberglass . also make sure there is no gelcoat under the adhasive you want the bond to be to the glass only .
a step tool you buy to put the little 1/2" steps in metal panels will not do you have to hammer and dolly the 2" step into the panel . we made our onw dolly (block) for doing just this job .
if you know some one with a mill they can cut a 1/8" step into a block of steel for you . if not you can make your own block by taking two pieces of steel and weld a 1/8' PIECE on top of the another 2" plus piece so it has the 2" long step in it .
Old 10-08-2013, 08:45 AM
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Brando
 
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I'm saving this info as it's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks, BA
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1977 911s. it's cool
Old 10-08-2013, 08:54 AM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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i should add you will want to seam seal the under side seam with a good two parts seam sealer then chip guard the under sides of the panels . the seam selaer will stop any moisture from getting between the two panels and the chip guard will help with stones from hitting the under side of the flares to prevent star cracks in the fiberglass .
i do not chip guard race cars as i don't want the uneeded weight .
make dam sure your not doing any body filler work over your gelcoat it is how ever ok on your last coat to spread a tight coat onto the gelcoat with the last coat just to get a feather edge . but a tight coat only !
Old 10-08-2013, 09:29 AM
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ClubEuroMafia
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
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I have never heard of mixing Duraglass with a Plastic filler... But definitely use Duraglass, as it is very strong and waterproof. So in the worst case, if water did get past your seam sealer. The Duraglass would stop it .
After the Duraglass, proceed like any normal Body Work job.
Old 11-14-2013, 03:44 PM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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products like duraglass are not in any way waterproof ! they have the same base products (resins ) in them as most all body fillers .
they replace the talc with chopped fiberglass . talc is what makes body fillers smooth and creamy .
Old 11-15-2013, 05:56 AM
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