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Join Date: Oct 2013
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lacqure paint

i cant even spell .it so why am i trying to use it??? i race go karts and am really picky about how my kart looks each week. race to win and don't always start up front. so my fiberglass gets torn up. i guess i have had good luck up till this past weekend ( a few tears nothing ripped off) patched up and retouched with duplicolor had really I'mpresIvexresults. luck ended last weekend . after the repairs looks like a
jigsaw puzzle or a quilt . more than a rattle cans worth. bodywork is really smooth (was taught about wet sanding with a squeegee at an early age ). Ive got a qt of my color and a gravity gun (mountain) my question involves fiberglass and lacquer what is a good and cheap sealer for the glass that the lacquer wont wrinkle and cant remember how much to reduce the lacquer for spraying . why cheap? 6 races left and i want to be sharp for all 6 my class rubs pretty hard color is black. next year I'm going to white!!!!new glass body molded in white .thanks for the advice this forum is great
Old 10-15-2013, 08:26 PM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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Location: branford ct
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my friend don't worry about spelling i can't write or spell worth a dam .
lacquer is a hard product to work with it wants to lift the metarial /finish that is under it when you spray a new coat or two down .
once you decide to use lacquer you will then have to use it all the time for every product you dut down on the panel . so that would be your primer , sealer , and top coats would all have to be of a lacquer base product .

ok so heres what you have to do :
you have to find the product on the nose panel that is giving you the lifting broblem .
is it a primer you used ? many times that's what it is because the primers you buy in a spray can tend to be of a enamel based and you can't mix lacquer and enamel or it lifts .
you how every can spray a enamel over lacquer but not the other way around .
so people tend to do ok untill they get to spraying the new fresh top coat of lacquer over the enamel primer they put down .
so if it's the primer you will have to strip the primer off the nose piece .
get your self a little electric palm sander and some 80 grit paper and strip off ALL the problem product from the panel . it all has to be stripped off !
from the 80 grit change the sand paper to 220 or 240 and sand every thing again to get rid of the 80 grit sand scratches . then once you have it all the problem finish stripped .
get some lacquer primer pepboys sells it along with summet , jegs and speedway .
just be sure it's lacquer .
then as a test spray a little area with the primer . to be sure your not having any more lifting problems . if your not then spray the rest of the nose panel .
the trick to lacquer is do not pork it on spray more but lighter coats when it comes to lacquer .
if some thing with lacquer wants to lift people tend to try and pork on more heavy coats this is wrong you want to spray very light coats . it's the wet solvents that is wanting to lift the metarial underneath so dry is better .
once its primed you then let the nose panel sit untill it's nice and dry and sand it with 400 to 600 wet is best .
if you sand thru a little area or two when your prep sanding the nose panel after you finished sand spot in the brake thru areas with more primer . you don't have to reprime the hole nose just the brake thru areas and then resand the areas that were primed .
dry the nose panel and then tack it off with a tack reg . they sell them at any auto part store like pepboys .
then spray the ose with the color or colors of your liking .
the lacquer you would want to buy is duplicolor's paint shop coatings ( primer base color and clears ) are ready to spray so you do not need to mix any lacquer thinner into them .
you can buy a cheap thinner at places like home depot to wash out your spray gun but don't try and using it to thin lacquer paints as it's a wash thinner not a tinnner made to reduce paints .
always cap the can of paint when your not using it to keep it the vocuosity the same so you can spray it .
Old 10-16-2013, 06:23 AM
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thanks ill let you know how this turned out
Old 10-16-2013, 11:05 PM
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ok finished installed crtiqued by teammates raced scratched up will be touched up latter this week i use the product as abase clear how do i do a spot repair? the overall was easy .although i couldnt get an orange peel free finish . more wetsanding than i wanted to do. think the environment was thecreal culprit there ,it was a cool damp night . the duplicolor just wouldnt lay out for me no runs thoug just too much opeel .
can i do this as a spot , do my body work ,prime the work area ,not the whole panel,color the primer . clear the color ,then hit it with blender if necessary. tell mee if i 'm off track
Old 10-20-2013, 03:12 PM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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spoting in lacquer is ez . it may take two or 3 times to nail it down but all and all it's easier than other finishes .

once your body work area is all set and ready for color and clear sand the area your looking to paint with 600 to 800 grit wet paper .
you will need some lacquer thinner to melt the clear blean into the old clear . so go to the store and get some duplicolor lacquer thinner .
now spray the color over the area were you want to cover the damaged area and walk the color out just a little so your not stopping in the same place with each coat of color .
just kind of dust out he edge of the color coat onto the old clear .
then do the same with the clear walk that just past the area were you did the color coat and again kind of just have a little dusted in area from the clears over spray .
let it set up as you clean out your spray gun then with 9 parts of just thinner to 1 part of lacquer clear mixed together . spray a light melt in coat of your mix over the edges of the blead area . don't spray to much thinner at once or it will just run on you light coats just to melt on the over spray edge . all your looking to do with the thinner bleaning mix is to soften the old clear as to give the new clear some thing to bite or melt into .
if it looks a little pealy it's ok you should be able to buff it with some compound after it's all dry .
just sand it with a piece of 1200 or 1500 wet paper and buff a shine back into it .
Old 10-21-2013, 05:25 AM
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