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Water based crushed Glass blasting for paint removal

I know it has been gone over before, but I was hoping to get any fresh thought on it, There are a couple firms advertising that they are doing water based crushed glass blasting for paint removal. I understand that the glass does not really get into heavy rust removal, but my main concern is paint removal down to metal and then I will probably spot blast (alum oxide) the few small rust spots I have. Any worry about primer or paint adhesion.? warping.? (the water based method "states' no warping) They also said they can do it remotely.?
It's a Targa, so there is less sheetmetal to do and I do have a lot of 80 grit paper laying. But my concern is that is if I take my sweet a.. time doing it that way, it will flash rust and if I get it completely stripped in 1 shot I can get it to the shop for etch prime. Any help/insight appreciated.
Old 01-11-2014, 01:38 PM
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ttt, any help on this is appreciated. Thx
Old 01-13-2014, 03:17 AM
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the what's why's and how's for the media you pick has been covered so many times it's not funny .
to look out side the box for some thing that has been working for every one in the resto business for years just makes no sense to me at all .
I would think you would want to have your car blasted and also have any rust that is on the car also get removed at the same time as the rest of the cars finish is also getting removed .
you blast it once with the media it takes to do the hole job the right way the 1st time .
you have to ask your self why would I want to pay for a shop to blast my car to remove the finish and then still have the rust left behind ?

a shop that has no idea of what they are doing will screw up your car by using the wrong media or not knowing how to blast a cars finish .

most shops out there will not screw up your car by warping the metal .
how ever you have to pick a shop that knows how to blast steel bodied cars so taking it to a shop that does mostly heavy equipment is not a place you would want to take your car to .
the same could be said for shops that do soda or soft metal blasting as there main source of business would not be the shop I would pick .

if I were you I would be looking for a shop that will plastic media blast the car or a shop that does use a low grit sand for blasting . a shop that there main income is doing cars .
many shops will also prime the car for you at a extra price so the car will not flash rust .

if your car is not built out of aluminum then glass water blasting would not be the media I would even think about .
what I never understand is when people know that the media they are looking at is not right for there job why would you even consider it at all ?
Old 01-13-2014, 05:28 AM
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962, Thx for your insight. Yes, the topic has been beat to death and I read every thread I could find both here and in Googleland. I agree that the car should be blasted/rust removed in one shot and primed immediately there after. My problem is I cannot seem to find anybody here on Long Island that does plastic media blasting, at all. If you could explain the detriment to crushed glass, would like to hear your opinion about it. Messy.? ineffective.? bad primer/paint adhesion problems.? From what I can see, I do not have a significant amount of rust on the car (driver's lower door jamb, tiny spot on deck lid gutter) Again, any insight appreciated. JIM
Old 01-14-2014, 03:12 AM
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you then may want to find a shop off long island to do the blasting if there are non that do plastic media blasting .
it's not that glass is such a bad thing it's just not the media you want for the job your looking to do .
there for it's kind of a waste of your money !
it's the same with things like soda blasting a steel bodied car .
the two do a good job at removing paint but nothing else so it's not at all the media you would want to pick .
you have to remember the shop will sell you the job because they want to make money .
they may know full well the media is not going to do the job it should be doing but non the less they will sell it to you any way .
it's up to you to find the right shop to the a good job the right way the 1st time with no BS given to you after the job is finished .
even after the car is blasted you should sand the hole car with 180 grit to have the E-primer stick it's best .
so it's best to only have the main body done 1st then when your ready take the rest of the parts back like the doors , trunk lid , engine lid and have them done at a later time .
by doing it that way your not left with a crap load of things flash rusting .
the other option is to have the blasting shop prime . I found out it's not a good idea to do that as it's to ez to cover spots they did not blast enough to be hidden with primer only to fine it out years down the road after the car is finished .

one thing about blasting shops that tell you they use eco friendly blasting products . yep that's great but the finish on the car is far from eco friendly . so they can come to your place and blast but your left with all the material that was on the car sitting on your driveway that is not eco friendly .
we have soda blasted a crap load of fiberglass and aluminum bodied cars in my blasting booth . the soda is ok eco wise but it's all the paint on the car that is far from it .

i'm sure you can find a shop to take the car to that will use a fine grade of sand or plastic media . you could call a area blasting supply store and ask them who plastic media blasts in your area .

i just called my media supplier down in NY and she said there is a place in Freeport that does plastic media blasting called cutting edge .
she did not have there phone number at hand . i'm sure you can find there number .
Old 01-14-2014, 10:32 AM
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Thx again for your detailed explanation. It is very ironic, I drove down to Freeport this past Saturday and went to Cutting Egde, my first impression was correct, it was a "we'll do anything as long as you pay us" type of shop, The owner from Bulgaria, Croatia.? walked me past the 2 tune ups and tranny swaps he was doing it and led me to a ratty old canvas booth, He then told me he was no longer doing plastic media only aluminum oxide, didn't want to do plastic anymore. He then showed me a 40 Ford he was blasting (more like destroying), it was hammered, the metal was extremely coarse after blasting, Im sure it was warped beyond belief, Needless to say I said Thx, but no Thx
962, let me know how far your shop is from LI, maybe I can get an estimate from you.? Thanks again
Old 01-14-2014, 03:15 PM
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I retired this past summer .
I hate to say this but when I was open we most likely would not have done your car .
I turned down about 1/2 the Porsche that would come to us for one reason or another .
then the ones we would take on were jobs we would only do our self's . we would not just blast a car and give it back to the customer . if we stripped it we would be doing the hole job from start to finish . that's taking the car totally apart doing all the body and paint work and reassembly .
when I 1st opened 35 years ago I learned real fast never do parts of the job for customers .

maybe you should call a blasting supply store in your area and just ask then who does plastic media blasting .

aluminum oxide is good for frames / chassis but not what you want to do to sheet metal .
as for his blasting booth all we have is the big car tent things out side there not ripped at all but non the less there are just tents garage things with wood floors . blasting does beat the hell out of your blasting booths we had to buy new canvas every two to three years .
Old 01-14-2014, 07:20 PM
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