962porsche,

Again, really good information - thanks for sharing.

Hmmm, I wonder how much shipping would be to have you re-finish my tank :). Actually, I'm not too concerned about the color being a perfect match, but I have seen tanks that were painted a glossy grey, and I prefer the semi-gloss of the original finish.

Do you know if the grey 3M 08889 would be ok to use stand-alone, or does it need to be topcoated? If no topcoat is needed, does this dry to a semi-gloss finish?

all the stock gray colors offered with chip guards we did spray outs of were not a match to the fuel tanks .
this is why we ended up tinting the chip guard .
when we used to go to shows we would see so many fuel tanks that you could tell from many feet away they are not right . the color or gloss would be totally wrong .

it's all the little details that make for a good resto . many shops can do a resto but from what I have seen very few do a correct one .
you will always tend to see things like hinges over painted along with things like wheel houses completely sprayed in body color .
you will see on unrestored cars things like hardly any color on parts like the under side of the door jams . you would never see it if your not laying on your back looking up at the bottom side of the door but it's part of a resto if your making it a 100% accurate one .

Thought I'd post a couple pics of my front end refurb. I have no experience in this field. Very pleased with results. Outer wings back from paint in a week.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/ezyquga3.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/qy8e2agu.jpg

With colour applied:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/5e4y3y8u.jpg

I wanted to provide an update on the topic of chip-guard/SKS/Schutz/Underseal colors.

I purchased both the 3M products listed above with the goal of coming as close as possible to matching the light grey/ivory colored SKS on the bottom of my (silver) 911.

Thinking that the grey would have been too dark, I assumed that the beige was going to be the closest match. But when I applied it to a sample board, the beige turned out to have too much brown/red tint to it. So then I tried the grey, and this was a very close match in color. The original SKS is old and stained in some spots from an undercoat that was originally applied on top, but otherwise I'm happy with the results. Note: I applied epoxy primer to the area first per the 3M instructions.

The one big difference with the 3M product is that the surface texture is different. The original SKS can actually be waxed and it takes on a satin finish. The 3M product is more flat, but that could have been due to the way I applied it.

Left: 08874 (beige), Right: 08889 (light grey). Note: on the white area of the 08889 can I put a dab of each product; 08874 on left, 08889 on right.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398049663.jpg


Before:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392873826.jpg

After: 3M 08889 to rear of tunnel and center of torsion tube
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398049747.jpg

Looks good. 0889 is the color in your photo and you applied it with a gun?

Yes, 08889 (light grey), but no gun. 08874 requires the gun (which I purchase but never used). 08889 is a spray can, so no gun required.

I edited my original post to indicate the colors in the photo.

Note: In the photo of the two cans, on the white area of the 08889 can I put a dab of each product; 08874 on left, 08889 on right. You can clearly see the difference in color. I will add this note to my original post.

That's a real close match. How is the build up? Does it go on like spray paint or does it have pretty good mil thickness like original?

I saw those little smudges. I thought they were little dabs of product.

The directions on the can state:

"Texture can be varied by adjusting application speed, distance and coating thickness"

I did not really experiment with this too much given the location and small area I was covering.